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.67777 Ohms


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Yeah thats what I thought too. It's port area is 96 sq in opening, 15 in deep. Sounded kinda odd but its what Kicker recommended, and It actually turned out very, very good. Its got a real flat response from 29~40hz. ITs kicker L7s.

Anyone ever heard of using the top and side posts at the same time on a battery ?

So im doing 2 runs of zero from the back to the battery bank....... What about from the batteries to the amps? 2 runs? Cuz thats where it was getting hot at.. thats the wire that melted yesterday.

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Yeah thats what I thought too. It's port area is 96 sq in opening, 15 in deep. Sounded kinda odd but its what Kicker recommended, and It actually turned out very, very good. Its got a real flat response from 29~40hz. ITs kicker L7s.

Anyone ever heard of using the top and side posts at the same time on a battery ?

So im doing 2 runs of zero from the back to the battery bank....... What about from the batteries to the amps? 2 runs? Cuz thats where it was getting hot at.. thats the wire that melted yesterday.

thats what its made for :clapping:

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get rid of that raptor shit RIGHT AWAY...thats like a "3"or 2 guage wire really...your gonna burn that wire up. go to some RF flex wire that shit is NICE

NoFearX18 said:

Nick will bang just about anything.....LMAO....pun intended

On 4/13/2010 at 9:51 AM, meade916 said:

i was like DAMN, Chode is hardcore! he makes james look like a friendly person LOL!

trainman0978 said:

I dont know who is worse with the buttholes Chode or Big P...

 

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Do you have a H/o alt ?

Cause .67ohms on a 3000d? thats rated for 3000w at 1ohm? ur looking at like what 3300-3500 total output? Sounds like stress even across 3 optima yellows.

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If your fuse was welding itself to the fuseholder that means you have a shitty connection...i.e. you need to make sure the fuse and fuse holder points of contact are as clean as possible AND you need to make sure the screws holding the fuse are tight as possible. Also check where your 1/0 enters and exits the fuse holder has a good connection as well.

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Another Pos and Neg run to back batteries would do good... You really need some better quality stuff to run from back batterys to amp tho cuz thats your main problem.. Fosgate, Kicker, Knu ect... even Stinger something you know will handle 300amps

Passport Build Here

Alarm: Prestige APS997A 2-Way/Remote Start

HeadUnit: Pioneer DEH-P6000UB

Front Battery: Yellowtop Optima D34/78

Back Battery: 2x C&D Technologies High Rate Series UPS12-475FR 134AH

Subs: 2x DC Lv4XL 18's

Amps: 2x Sundown Saz1500's Strapped

Box: 12Cubes 33hz 185sqin Port(15.4sqin per cube)

Pillars: AudioBahn AS31Q

Front Doors: Clif Designs TX40.5

Back Doors: Clif Designs CD50.4C

Rear Speakers: Clif Designs TX46.5

Front/Rear Amp: Kicker ZX350.4

Back/Pillars Amp: Kicker ZX200.2(Looking for another zx350.4)

Electrical: 1/0 Scorpion Wire 2 Runs Pos and 2Runs Ground, Knu 1/0 Flex Running to Amps ect, Big 3, JL 8Ga For Speaker Wire, Knu Karma RCA's, Scorpion Volt Meter

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