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When I'm playing the car stereo at s decent bass rate while the car is iddle I get a big RPM drop and car almost shuts off.

I have the big 3 done, yellow top under the hood, 220 amp h/o and batcap 800.

Does anyone know why the RPM drops? Is it a electrical issue?

Yes.

You need to monitor the voltage of the vehicle while the system is playing. And from what I know about those Yellow Tops, once they have a heavy discharge from a big system, yeah they'll run the car, but they end up being useless quick and destroy the voltage of the entire bank.

What kind of amp are you running (and what car)? That'll give us a better idea of what might be happening.

Need an install? Hit me up.
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Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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Yes.

You need to monitor the voltage of the vehicle while the system is playing. And from what I know about those Yellow Tops, once they have a heavy discharge from a big system, yeah they'll run the car, but they end up being useless quick and destroy the voltage of the entire bank.

What kind of amp are you running (and what car)? That'll give us a better idea of what might be happening.

I didn't know that about Yellow tops? Have you actually seen this as the case?

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When I'm playing the car stereo at s decent bass rate while the car is iddle I get a big RPM drop and car almost shuts off.

I have the big 3 done, yellow top under the hood, 220 amp h/o and batcap 800.

Does anyone know why the RPM drops? Is it a electrical issue?

So u have an aftermarket alternator it looks like and with that it takes more power to spin the bigger alt vs. a stock alt u can almost count on at least 5% lost in hp i mean i dont really deal with alts much but when that amp starts drawing power and kills the reserves in the batts at idle its up to the alt to make up for it and then thats when u start losing power/rpms at idle its not really a great idea to play it loudly at idle try keeping it around 2000 and see if the same happens if not its just the alts kicking in at idle and drainin ur motor out not a big issue but an issue none the less

someone pls correct me if im wrong but this is just my racing experience talking here being that same car w.o. an alternator will pick up in 1/4 and drop off with an alt

2000 White Dodge Durango 5.9L

Flowmaster 40 Series through 2 1/2" with and open cat.

1 Dc lvl5 18

4 6.5 seleniums and 2 D200 Selenium Horns on Rockford 500.2

Big three upgrade and a kinetik HC1800 in the back with all 1/0g knu wire

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I'm running 3 RF amps

T1000, T8004, T4004

2004 Toyota Solara 2.4l

Yes.

You need to monitor the voltage of the vehicle while the system is playing. And from what I know about those Yellow Tops, once they have a heavy discharge from a big system, yeah they'll run the car, but they end up being useless quick and destroy the voltage of the entire bank.

What kind of amp are you running (and what car)? That'll give us a better idea of what might be happening.

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So u have an aftermarket alternator it looks like and with that it takes more power to spin the bigger alt vs. a stock alt u can almost count on at least 5% lost in hp i mean i dont really deal with alts much but when that amp starts drawing power and kills the reserves in the batts at idle its up to the alt to make up for it and then thats when u start losing power/rpms at idle its not really a great idea to play it loudly at idle try keeping it around 2000 and see if the same happens if not its just the alts kicking in at idle and drainin ur motor out not a big issue but an issue none the less

someone pls correct me if im wrong but this is just my racing experience talking here being that same car w.o. an alternator will pick up in 1/4 and drop off with an alt

Mostly right on. The alt will be the initial source of voltage. Once it drops to battery voltage, the batts take over, alt excites and starts pumping amps back in. And yes, the pulley gets tight.

And I didn't think of that before, make sure you are not having any belt slippage. That's one of the biggest problems people face sometimes (including me) when putting in a new alt.

And yes, I had a bank of the D34 yellow tops and after one burp, they were all shit. I left the one under the hood, bought a bunch of Kinetik and MLA module. Once it was all in, my voltage was still at 13.1 even though MLA was supposed to be regulating to 14.7V. I changed out the battery under the hood and it all was fixed.

I asso had the belt slippage problem.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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I'm in the middle of upgrading batteries to a Xs poers s3100 under the hood and D925 on trunk.

Will those batteries help regulate the RPM's from dropping?

Well...regulate RPMs? They'll definitely stabilize voltage until the alt comes in, but you should still check voltage to make sure it IS your problem. Like stated above, it could be the belt slippage as well.

Need an install? Hit me up.
[email protected]


Got car audio questions? Check here first!
Everything you need to know. =]

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/

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