17hz

[FiBTLforlife]

it could be one of dozens of things. noone really mentioned rca's or headunit problem.

try putting a different sub in there and seeing what happens yet?

is it really 17hz or does he think its 17? considering how strange that is, i wouldnt rule it out as being incorrect (and it being like a 47hz box and he bottomed it out or something)

have you actually inspected it or are you just troubleshooting over the phone?

this is all being done over the phone of all things so im not there in person to see what is really going on which makes it hard. so im just going by what he tell me. he thought he had it at 32hz then told me its 17hz, so i can only go by what he tells me. i dont know what else to tell the dude but make a new box

[drew028]

Put it back in ur truck and give him a demo of it working perfect.

[Neo_frog]

IMO, the box is not the problem. Like raytard said, if it was tuned much higher, that would be a different story.

I listed a few things that could be the problem, but there's so many factors that everything I listed could be wrong. There's so much more that could be, but it's just a little bug somewhere. I've seen so many guys on here have one tiny problem that ruined everything until they figured it out (including myself). And sometimes it's something really stupid that nobody thinks about...

[FiBTLforlife]

Put it back in ur truck and give him a demo of it working perfect.

ive thought about that bc i know its not the subwoofer unless he did the damage himself. like i said, im not there so im just pulling shit out my ass here

good idea though

[raytard]

yea, sometimes the little stuff is what causes it

like my gains not being set wrong, just the cd i was listening to was clipped off the start, or an rca getting pinched in a sill plate and grounding out causing some funky ass signals to get passed through

box tuning is a mystery to a lot of people, if he said he thought it was 34, and then 17, it honestly could be anything, wouldnt be the first time i saw someone drill a 4 inch hole into a sealed box and call it ported.

honestly, buyer beware...you're off the hook, he cant do anything, so just leave him to his own devices. that or like drew said, reinstall it in yours, play it, let him see its something with his setup, and tell him to figure it out cuz what he bought by himself and installed himself isnt your problem.

i sold some guy my dirtbike and he calls me back, screaming into the phone, 6 months later saying it wont start. People dont realize that once you buy something and use it, anything that happens is on them.

[Guest]

all the stuff i have bought over the years, after been heavily used, still works 100%. its all dependent on the install.

ive seen fibtl's videos and am good friends with him. he tells me that the sub stays cool all the time and has NEVER gotten warm. also the point that the coils were still "golden colored" (his words) right before he sent him the sub.

i am going to try to talk to the guy that has the BL currently to try and troubleshoot some more and do in-depth solving also.

Edited April 4, 2009 by Krannyman92

[96 Tacoma]

my hifonics cut off into protection for me one time from messing with the eq on the headunit setting it to high

[Hoppy72450]

Ok I am the one who bought it and I am old school only thing I had back in the day was a punch amp with treble and bass knob on it you hooked and went with a sealed box most the time. I got a JVC Head Unit KS Model bought brand new RCA jacks are Phoenix Gold Wireing kit also came with 60 amp fuse or maybe 80 amp. Had a 500.2 Kicker amp and 2 12" audiobahns hooked up b4 I got this 12" from him. Hooked it all up speaker is right all wires are right and what happens is the speaker cuts in and out at high volume and amp lights dim'en I took care of fuseing wireing and double checked the speaker wireing all is good Took it by Hotwired Car Audio and they said speaker was on its last leg and said If I wanted to trade it for another speaker in the store they would give me a good deal. So that was obvious then that they were trying to get something for nothing so I left called my buddy who compeats in contest around my area he's in the 155 and 156 db with 2 15 L7 Kickers he knows his stuff I guess seeing how he hits that hard..lol But anyways he said stay away from thoughs morons over there he took a speaker to them and they said it was blown and he was getting it meterd or something like that and it was fine.. But he came by stuck something on the speaker says the speaker is fine and he seen the box asked me what it was tuned to I said well thought it was 32hz but got messed up somehow building around the console and it came out to 17 or 16 hz instead he rolled on the ground laughing for about 10 mins then said lets build you a box he is designing a box were putting it in tommorrow and he is going to tune the amp to the speaker also whatever that means and he said should hit hard as hell when he's finished. So i keep you all posted..

He said its the Box and the Amp both BTW he said the box needs to be in the mid 30's and the amp needs to be set once the speaker is in ? Does this make since ?

Edited April 5, 2009 by Hoppy72450

[Hoppy72450]

Well I know you wouldn't sell a bad sub, but you should never rule it out. Cutting in and out could be a bunch of things...

Has he watched the amp to see if the protect light comes on and off or the power light dims? Could be the wrong wiring or voltage issues. And possible gain being set too high.

Is the amp mounted ON the box? The amp shouldn't be exposed to vibration. Check if all of the terminals are tight or relocate it to see if it fixes the problem.

Does he understand clipping? He may have blared it way too long and actually damaged the sub. It'll still play, but cut out at high volumes.

Has he inspected the motor? Check the leads to make sure they are intact and everything else looks good. Push on the sub to listen for unnatural noise, check the impedance of each coil (should be very close to the same), check the final ohm load, etc...

Although the box could play a role in blowing a sub, it's usually user error. He's tuned so low that the sub won't have problems dropping to low notes. If there's anything being sent to it lower though, the sub will bottom out. Make sure that (even though he set the subsonic) there's not a filter switch on the amp. Set the LPF at 50-80hZ and set the gain with a scope or DMM at the least.

Hope I helped a little man. But not having it in front of me makes it hard to troubleshoot over a thread.

The amp is mounted in the middle of the seat for now tell I figure out the problem where its been since I hooked it up, I hooked the speaker and amp up after I got both of them I know how to hook a system up not that retarded but the 1 ohm one was different but Fi got me a giagram and I wired it according to the chart and it all started from the start it was doing that so I figure its the Amp not being tuned right cause when Fi called me and was telling me what to do and I set the Subsonic down lower the speaker didnt do it at the volume it had been doing it , it made it where it had to be turned up loader.

[Boon]

The only time I have heard a sub 'cut in and out' was when it was being fed an EXTREMELY clipped wave.

Also it sounds like his crossover filters are all stupidised, 50hz subsonic is rediculous, what's the low pass set to?