Zade08 Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 those are really 1200 rms * Reference Series power amplifier with 2400W output * Dual sigma drive * RMS Power at 4 Ohm: 1 x 600 Watts * RMS Power at 2 Ohm: 1 x 1200 Watts * RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 1 x 1000 Watts * Maximum Output Power: 2400 Watts * Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 80dBA * Low-Pass Filter: 40-200Hz (Variable), -24dB/oct * Infrasonic Filter: 15Hz-60Hz (Variable), -24dB/oct * Variable Band Reject Filter: 40Hz-200Hz, OFF/-6dB/-12dB * Bass Boost Ready (Wired Remote): 40Hz-100Hz, 0dB�+18dB lol. I think thats funny that the kenwoods actually get less efficient at 1ohm but still hold stable. PS I ran my kac-9103d at 1 ohm and it got hotter than hell and use to shut off all the time if the backseat wasnt down. Quote Vehicle: 2001 Ford Escape Head Unit: Kenwood Kdc-x592 All out for a rebuild. New shit coming in the next 30 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 those are really 1200 rms * Reference Series power amplifier with 2400W output * Dual sigma drive * RMS Power at 4 Ohm: 1 x 600 Watts * RMS Power at 2 Ohm: 1 x 1200 Watts * RMS Power at 1 Ohm: 1 x 1000 Watts * Maximum Output Power: 2400 Watts * Signal-to-Noise Ratio: 80dBA * Low-Pass Filter: 40-200Hz (Variable), -24dB/oct * Infrasonic Filter: 15Hz-60Hz (Variable), -24dB/oct * Variable Band Reject Filter: 40Hz-200Hz, OFF/-6dB/-12dB * Bass Boost Ready (Wired Remote): 40Hz-100Hz, 0dB�+18dB WTF? Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Beanz Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 (edited) here sum more specs to see when you do run the amp at 12 v SPECIFICATIONS max power output : 2400W RMS power output (+B = 12.0V) : 400W x 1 @ 4 ohm (20 - 200Hz, 0.5% THD) 800W x 1 @ 2 ohm(100Hz, 0.5%THD) >800W x 1 @ 1 ohm RMS power output (+B = 14.4V) : 600W x 1 @ 4 ohm (20 - 200Hz, 0.5% THD) 600W x 1 @ 4 ohm (DIN45234, +B = 14.4V) 1200W x 1 @ 2 ohm (100Hz, 0.5%THD) >1000W x 1 @ 1 ohm edit*and on sum places they are chargin like 300-500 bucks for these bad boys brand new. Edited April 19, 2009 by Beanz Quote That's why they don't deliver. Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait. You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 OMFG! its a 75amp draw max thats 1080watts MAX at 14.4, and 900@12volts with that in mind, call them 800watts rms and maybe 1000 max (at 2 or 1ohm) now that we are past the completely fucked up kenwood rating and agree its 1800watts between the 3 amps(because simple friggin math says so, I'm not even going to get into the effeciency of these which is ATROCIOUS, especially at 1ohm), discuss the best path, i vote change starting batt and run 0g back there to a distro block (or small batt, like hc 600/800/1400) Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 OMFG! its a 75amp draw maxthats 1080watts MAX at 14.4, and 900@12volts with that in mind, call them 800watts rms and maybe 1000 max (at 2 or 1ohm) now that we are past the completely fucked up kenwood rating and agree its 1800watts between the 3 amps(because simple friggin math says so, I'm not even going to get into the effeciency of these which is ATROCIOUS, especially at 1ohm), discuss the best path, i vote change starting batt and run 0g back there to a distro block (or small batt, like hc 600/800/1400) whats the efficiency rating? tell and xmuthafuggin2 on the starting batt and 0 gauge Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Zade08 Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 We all forgot the big 3 also. Cant forget that. IM out guys pease /zade Quote Vehicle: 2001 Ford Escape Head Unit: Kenwood Kdc-x592 All out for a rebuild. New shit coming in the next 30 days. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
raytard Posted April 19, 2009 Report Share Posted April 19, 2009 effeciency is how much of the current draw just goes to heating the amp up, it generally goes lower as impedance drops and is represented as a percentage, 100% being ideal most amps are in like the 85% ballpark at 2-4ohms, at 1ohm some amps will drop as low as 65-55% (aka, 35% of your current draw is heating it up, which means it puts out 35% less power than it should considering it's current rating) thats why the 1ohm rating is lower than the 2, its dropping the effeciency from like 80% to 60% and although it only has half the impedance, its wasting alot of it creating heat, and runs into the problem of drawing too much current. and popping those 75amps of fuses. and overheating. Quote Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now) Team DC Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belvy83 Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 OK well what amp do you guys think I should get to push these 2 fi bl 12" subs? And the box I'm gonna get is here http://www.subthump.com/ctbultra.htm Should I get just 1 btl 12" and build a big enough box? OR what I really need help because I am soon gonna be installing all of my stuff! Quote 2000 Chevy Silverado ext cab Kenwood Excelon X-692 Head Unit Kenwood Excelon KAC-X20 Amp Wire to Alpine Type R 12" 2ohm Infinity Kappa 6.5" and 3" pushed by rockfored 400.i? or something? I'll look later. Its 2 amps in 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Belvy83 Posted April 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 (edited) Well first off, chances are, the BLs will sound like shit UNDER a seat and will probably not be in a box big enough.2400MAX is not 2400RMS. It won't be 6kW. Capacitors will be absolutely worthless no matter how many you have. You will need multiple batteries to handle a 6000W system and one or more big alternators. http://www.subthump.com/ctbultra.htm this is the box i wanna get do you think it will still sound like shit? Edited April 20, 2009 by Belvy83 Quote 2000 Chevy Silverado ext cab Kenwood Excelon X-692 Head Unit Kenwood Excelon KAC-X20 Amp Wire to Alpine Type R 12" 2ohm Infinity Kappa 6.5" and 3" pushed by rockfored 400.i? or something? I'll look later. Its 2 amps in 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Guest Posted April 20, 2009 Report Share Posted April 20, 2009 like he said...yes. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.