OBI Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 1. The #1 thing I hear all the time is underpowering subs will blow them. I'm throwing the BS flag way high on this one. If this was the case, you'd have to play your subs at full tilt below clipping or not at all, or else every time you turn down your volume, they'd blow. How about the RE MT's dont they need at least RMS in order to cool themselves? I remember reading about it somewhere, saying since they didnt have P chambers, the cone is what cooled it, and running it below RMS would cause it to heat up to quickly and fail. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Again, false, because then they'd be heating up and dying every time you turned down the volume. Didn't Steve run 4 MT's before he went with the FI's? 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ALPINE408 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Why they "say" under powering blows subs usally the user trys to push the amp to hard trying to get as much bass as possible sending a clipped singnal with dirty power causeing thermal failure Have you ever had your woofers blown? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OBI Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Yea he did run the MT's before and at over RMS, but about the heating thing I meant over a longer period of time like if you were constantly running them under RMS. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 If he had the volume at 1/4 most of the time, that's running it under rms. 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Why they "say" under powering blows subs usally the user trys to push the amp to hard trying to get as much bass as possible sending a clipped singnal with dirty power causeing thermal failureX2 Exactly.As far as this whole turnning the volume down, example a 500 watt amp to a 500 watt rated sub. In my theory that 500 watt amp is exactly that. It is going to attempt to put out the 500 watts of power at all times that it was designed for but we manipulate (volume,EQ,or other) to attenuate how loud it is playing. So you are not under powering that sub even though you are turnning the volume down. Has anyone here came up with a battery philosophy when matching subs and amps. I look at it like this, To use a 500 watt sub and make it perform properly I reccommend giving it 500 watts. I look at the RMS value of a sub the same way I look at putting 2 AA batteries in a discman. It takes X amount of current and voltage to make the discman perform propperly and the same concept should be used when matching an amp to a sub. This explanation is geared more towards the sound quality guys, than the SPL guys. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 I look at the RMS value of a sub the same way I look at putting 2 AA batteries in a discman. It takes X amount of current and voltage to make the discman perform propperly. And that is not the correct way to look at it. The walkman needs two AA batteries to supply voltage to the power supply to operate correctly. This would be compared to your amplifier needs 12 volts to turn on and work correctly. Nothing to do with the sub needs X RMS to operate. In my theory that 500 watt amp is exactly that. It is going to attempt to put out the 500 watts of power at all times that it was designed for but we manipulate (volume,EQ,or other) to attenuate how loud it is playing. So you are not under powering that sub even though you are turnning the volume down. Once again, when you vary the volume knob, you are changing the voltage level on the outputs of the amp. If you have an amp that can output 100 volts on the output at full power, and you turn the volume down, you reduce the voltage coming from the amp. Subs still works and the voltage has been reduced. The amp is not still trying to make 100 volts on the output. The sub is stupid - when it receives voltage, it does not know if it is from an amp that is maxed out or one that is producing 1/10 of what it is capable of. . . Brian Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ah its the only example I could think of while thinking about SQ after doing numerous test on on the same subs with different size powered amps. sub=600 watt RMS I put clean 300 watts on it and its alittle more boomy. I put a clean 600 watts on it and the accurcy was much better. So I'm a big believer in power a sub at its RMS recommendation. You have to have the rite power not only for the voice coil but for the spider(suspension) and weight of the cone and the surround if you want it to move back and forth propperly and give you the propper sound quality. Just a theory from numerous testing I have done through out the years. That would be the reason I believe the way I believe. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted April 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Back to the AA analogy. Your walkman needs minimum 3 volts and how ever many milliamps the batteries push out. It doesn't matter if you have 1,000 AA batteries in parallel, it's still going to need 3 volts. Just like batteries, not subwoofers. You'll need reserve if you're powering multiple diskmans at once though, hence multiple batteries. Just as bkolfo4 had mentioned, you set your gains on your amp to your impedence and RCA line voltage. If set right, at 3/4 volume or wherever you set your volume at, your speaker outs on your amp are going to max at the voltage you had set it to. When you turn the volume down, the AC voltage going to the speakers goes down. 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bkolfo4 Posted April 23, 2009 Report Share Posted April 23, 2009 Ah its the only example I could think of while thinking about SQ after doing numerous test on on the same subs with different size powered amps. sub=600 watt RMS I put clean 300 watts on it and its alittle more boomy. I put a clean 600 watts on it and the accurcy was much better. So I'm a big believer in power a sub at its RMS recommendation. You have to have the rite power not only for the voice coil but for the spider(suspension) and weight of the cone and the surround if you want it to move back and forth propperly and give you the propper sound quality. Just a theory from numerous testing I have done through out the years. That would be the reason I believe the way I believe. There is so much I could say to that, but I will let you believe the way you believe. We would never get anywhere Current system: 1997 Blazer - (4) Customer Fi NEO subs with (8) American Bass Elite 2800.1s Previous systems: 2000 Suburban - (4) BTL 15's and (4) IA 40.1's = 157.7 dB at 37 Hz. 1992 Astro Van - (6) BTL 15's and (6) IA 40.1's = 159.7 dB at 43 Hz. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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