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Wassup fella's...is there a way to test a sub to see if it will function properly without actually hooking it up to an amp? i read online somewhere that there is a way to check the phase of a sub using a 9volt battery, is there any truth behind that?

The reason why im wondering is because i found a real good deal on a sub i'd like to pick up, but i wont be able to test it on the spot and i dont wanna pay some stranger cash and get screwed ;)

...thanks for any info.

I only tell people 1/3 of what im REALLY doin', just so they can HATE ONLY on that third...

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ohm meeter and check the coils and make sure they read proper ohms, and the battery is only for phase checking, if it pops out its correct if it goes in then the polarity is reversed

Americas loudest work van2006 iasca heavyweight bassboxing champion at 150.4 db with 60second average TL8 memphis PR15s,12 memphis PR6.5's coax,4 memphis PR 1inch tweets

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ohm meeter and check the coils and make sure they read proper ohms, and the battery is only for phase checking, if it pops out its correct if it goes in then the polarity is reversed

cool...so being that the battery works for checking phase, wont that let me know if the voice coils are fried or anything? or is the ohm meter the best way to go as far as that goes?

I only tell people 1/3 of what im REALLY doin', just so they can HATE ONLY on that third...

2007 Tahoe

factory system for now :)

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Lay It Low Forum

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ohm meeter, the coils can be badly burnt but still allow power to pass, but the meeter will tell you if they are shit (dont forget to do the ole scratch n sniff.... i smell all subs i buy used before i even put them on the meeter. if it smells burnt then i wont bother with it

Americas loudest work van2006 iasca heavyweight bassboxing champion at 150.4 db with 60second average TL8 memphis PR15s,12 memphis PR6.5's coax,4 memphis PR 1inch tweets

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ohm meeter, the coils can be badly burnt but still allow power to pass, but the meeter will tell you if they are shit (dont forget to do the ole scratch n sniff.... i smell all subs i buy used before i even put them on the meeter. if it smells burnt then i wont bother with it

i appreciate, awesome advice...thanks for the quick reply bro

I only tell people 1/3 of what im REALLY doin', just so they can HATE ONLY on that third...

2007 Tahoe

factory system for now :)

Car Domain Page

Lay It Low Forum

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ohm meeter, the coils can be badly burnt but still allow power to pass, but the meeter will tell you if they are shit (dont forget to do the ole scratch n sniff.... i smell all subs i buy used before i even put them on the meeter. if it smells burnt then i wont bother with it

Do you literally mean scratch? And where to sniff?

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

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lol well if its a sexy sub and has a vented pole then im going to attempt to put my finger in the tiny dark hole and pull it out sideways scratching the wall and then sniff it to see if it passes the simple test... :acute:

Americas loudest work van2006 iasca heavyweight bassboxing champion at 150.4 db with 60second average TL8 memphis PR15s,12 memphis PR6.5's coax,4 memphis PR 1inch tweets

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lol well if its a sexy sub and has a vented pole then im going to attempt to put my finger in the tiny dark hole and pull it out sideways scratching the wall and then sniff it to see if it passes the simple test... :acute:

I'ms a takin this one.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

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I've got a little battery powered T-amp which I take along to test speakers/subs out - it's only $30 or so on ebay and it's light enough to take along with an MP3 player.

It's only 10w, but that's more than enough juice to work out whether a speaker is fried or not.

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