Rose-Villian Posted June 28, 2009 Report Posted June 28, 2009 Sorry, Just thought it was funny.... Ide try and tear it all off and redo it... Sorry for being an Asshole tho! WWW.OSGINDUSTRIES.COM I LOVE HATER'S
bumonskateboard6 Posted June 28, 2009 Author Report Posted June 28, 2009 LOL don't worry about it, I admit I'm a noob at the sound deadening stuff I've only done my trunk which was all metal anyway and when I saw this I figured oh it's just gonna be double insulation cool oh well, still made a very noticeable difference. Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?
SundownTL3.2 Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 hey dude can you PLEASE tell me how to remove the door panels? i am going to deaden and i need to know how to. i just got this car and dont want to fuck the doors up man. thanks -Ryan 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT........... THINKING
just_dave Posted June 29, 2009 Report Posted June 29, 2009 OH NO! That plasic REALLY needed to come off first. 2005 Ford Explorer Pioneer Premier DEH-P800PRS Alpine MRP-F550 Kicker KX600.1 Alpine Type-X 6.5's And a Big Thanks to Clay of A Team Audio for the DC Level 3-12" Sub!
bumonskateboard6 Posted June 30, 2009 Author Report Posted June 30, 2009 hey dude can you PLEASE tell me how to remove the door panels? i am going to deaden and i need to know how to. i just got this car and dont want to fuck the doors up man. thanks -Ryan There basically are 2 screws one behind the handle, and one in the middle of the door. The rest are clips that DO NOT BREAK, I pulled hard and nothing got broken. There's a tutorial with pictures here: http://tl.acurazine.com/forums/showthread....hlight=Speakers And I know I should have removed the plastic now...so next time lol Current Systems: 2011 BMW 335i Hertz HDP1 DC LVL3 12" Full Carbon Fiber 2002 Acura TlKenwood DNX9980HD2 DCLVL4 12" Subs with LVL5 Parts D.7 CoilsDC 3.5kHertz HSK-165 up front HCX-165 RearHertz HDP4 AmpDC Power Engineering 260 Amp AltBig 3 and amp powered with KNU 1/0XS Power D2400 Up Front i pulled out my dick in class many of times and had it shown. get over it bitch...stupid open legged hairy beavered bitch... going over rms = smaller box, under rms = bigger box... Low voltage doesn't blow amps. That's a myth. A router that does the sub holes makes rounded edges also?
SundownTL3.2 Posted July 6, 2009 Report Posted July 6, 2009 thanks dude! 2004 Chevy Tahoe LT........... THINKING
Cuseikan Posted July 6, 2009 Report Posted July 6, 2009 OH NO! That plasic REALLY needed to come off first. Agreed.
Anthony Collova Posted July 7, 2009 Report Posted July 7, 2009 ummmm.... hmmm...... So the plastic should have come off first. Like others have stated, Damplifier Pro needs to get applied directly to the metal to work. That plastic is a moisture barrier. Nothing more. Damplifier Pro works be killing resonance in the sheet metal. The way it is installed now, you are simply reducing the resonance in the plastic, which, there is none. Email me your contact info and I will send out another door pack so you can do it right. You will notice a HUGE difference. ANT
shainemcconnell Posted July 7, 2009 Report Posted July 7, 2009 Email me your contact info and I will send out another door pack so you can do it right. You will notice a HUGE difference. ANT Wow..that is awesome that you will do that for him... 2010 IDBL Rookie 1 North American Champion 2009 IDBL Rookie 1 Fl State Champion 2009 EBB Fly Weight 3rd Place Fl State Finals 2006 Silver Grand Prix GXP :Diablo Audio Hellfire 1000.1, JL Audio 300/4, One 13W7, ZR650, VR690, JL Cleansweep setup. Team Pure Pressure
DHFHades Posted July 7, 2009 Report Posted July 7, 2009 ummmm.... hmmm...... So the plastic should have come off first. Like others have stated, Damplifier Pro needs to get applied directly to the metal to work. That plastic is a moisture barrier. Nothing more. Damplifier Pro works be killing resonance in the sheet metal. The way it is installed now, you are simply reducing the resonance in the plastic, which, there is none. Email me your contact info and I will send out another door pack so you can do it right. You will notice a HUGE difference. ANT 2 free packs 8O...now thats some customer service right there...when the time comes I may just have to order some damplifier for my car 1990 Jeep Cherokee 4X4 Pioneer DEH-P2900MP, Big 3 done in 1/0, 1 run 1/0 ran to amp DAT HF1000.1 #007 powering a DC lvl4 15 DAT HR 4085 prototype powering 2 Selenium 6s and 2 no name tweeters running active 1st place in AS3 @ Surf City Sound Off, 140.8 @ 45hz @ the headrest. rebuild coming soon to get a better score "I regard the brain as a computer which will stop working when its components fail. There is no heaven of afterlife for broken down computers; that is a fairy story for people who are afraid of the dark."
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