Gotloud555 Posted August 4, 2009 Report Share Posted August 4, 2009 (edited) Anyway, shortly after I did the Big 3, I was on another forum, where the resident guru posted this big, long, technical thread, with graphs, pictures, case studies, etc, all to prove, that the Big 3 typically wasn't worth $#!+ Now, I'm pretty much an electrical dummy..... but I read the guys post like 3 X's, and what he was saying actually kind of made sense. In a nutshell, he said that the length of runs, commonly used in the Big 3, were too short to make any noticable difference in resistence, and that the only time when it made a bigger, more noticeable difference, was with long runs of cable, like from a battery under your hood, to an amplifier in your trunk.... or your alt under the hood, to a batt in the trunk. Hmmmmm. ........that, and also, if you were running a high powered alt, or 2.... (er 4 Hmmmm. At the very least, the Big 3 "looks cool" Anyway, I have to agree with that other guru guy, that for my setup, the Big 3 probably isn't doing squat. But it might be doing a little more for some of you with much bigger, badder systems. Peace, Fish I'm assume that guru dude was trying to point out that the big 3 would be better for peoples who have bigger and louder system. IF have system less then 1000 R.m.s then i don't see why would you need to do that, because it isn't demanding huge electrical power. Peoples with H/0 altenrator would need a to upgrade their positive wire, otherwise it might died. I wouldn't say the big 3 not worth to upgrade because it just there to help the electrical flowing eazy when it need to. Yes the length of wire do have resistance. RUnning a smaller wire can be hard for electrical flow. Depending on what you are powering. THe resistance per foot decreses as the gauge or wire increase (showing by a smaller, confusing). When you get a voltage drops then that mean you have resistance somewhere on the install with electrical. YOu can use a formula E = I x R You can google up the AWG gauge to see the Resistance per foot. Don't forget to put how much feet you're running on the wire. Once you get your answers you subtract it by the voltage on your vehicle. Bigger wire seen be good to use for the long run....... Edited August 4, 2009 by Gotloud555 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 I did the Big 3 (4 actually) all with 1/0, before I put in my system, along with a much better battery (but not a dual setup... I just replaced my lame stock batt). Granted, I'm just running one 'relatively' light weight RF Power 1000 25 to Life..... But anyway, I haven't had any problems at all. No dimming lights whatsoever, and I crank my system for 30 minutes to an hour all the time > with the truck turned off < , and it never dips below 12.3 volts..... about 13.5 truck running, with stereo + air con.... 13.8 to 14.4 with air con off, stereo on {oh, and I put in a digital voltmeter too, so I wouldn't have to worry about running my batt too low, then not being able to start the truck}. Anyway, shortly after I did the Big 3, I was on another forum, where the resident guru posted this big, long, technical thread, with graphs, pictures, case studies, etc, all to prove, that the Big 3 typically wasn't worth $#!+ Now, I'm pretty much an electrical dummy..... but I read the guys post like 3 X's, and what he was saying actually kind of made sense. In a nutshell, he said that the length of runs, commonly used in the Big 3, were too short to make any noticable difference in resistence, and that the only time when it made a bigger, more noticeable difference, was with long runs of cable, like from a battery under your hood, to an amplifier in your trunk.... or your alt under the hood, to a batt in the trunk. Hmmmmm. ........that, and also, if you were running a high powered alt, or 2.... (er 4 Hmmmm. At the very least, the Big 3 "looks cool" Anyway, I have to agree with that other guru guy, that for my setup, the Big 3 probably isn't doing squat. But it might be doing a little more for some of you with much bigger, badder systems. Peace, Fish i havent noticed anything after doing my big three at all lol. my voltage is still the same as it was Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
IndianaBassHead Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 HOLY old thread! Quote Audio Build Ride: 2002 Chevy Blazer 4 door Head Unit: Pioneer deh-80prs Subs: 4 DC Level 3 15's in a 4th order wall designed by Trent Choate and Jeff Smith Subs Amp: AQ 3500.1 at wired at .5 (soon to be 2) Mids/Highs Amp: Skar 85.4 Mids/Highs: Skar components Electrical: Mechman 270 amp alt, 2 runs of Knu 0 gauge, XS Power d3400, 2 Deka Group 9a31 Build log : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/167658-indianabasshead-blazer-dc-audio-4th-order-wall-build/ Perfomance Build 2003 Nissan 350z Greddy Twin Turbo, 3" Test pipes with Borla high-flow cats, Crawford Performance Plenum, Greddy E-manage Ultimate ECU Exedy Racing Clutch, Built Motor by Racing Innovations Greddy Over-fender aero kit (1 of 20 ever made), 19" Racing Hart r5 pro wheels 466rwhp Bike 2008 Midnight Blue Kawasaki ZX-14 Stretched 8" and lowered, Brocks Sidewinder exhaust, Power Commander 5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 HOLY old thread! lol sorry i was bored lol Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
CleanSierra Posted June 15, 2012 Report Share Posted June 15, 2012 (edited) ^^Good dig Indiana. 3 years old, WOW Edited June 15, 2012 by CleanSierra Quote Im not the one you want to try to troll. Just a fyi for you. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Redcorn245 Posted June 16, 2012 Report Share Posted June 16, 2012 Lol IM BORERRRRRRRRRRREDRREDEREDREDERR Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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