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Posted

so i was just thinking, since my box will house 4 12"s isobaric style, i need to use push pull, correct? but if i just have a mono amp, i can't do 2 push and 2 pull, can i? if not, should i just get 2 seperate 800W amps so i can wire each set of 2 as push pull? i kinda think that the 2 800W amps would be better. grant it, maybe not as sexy, but i'm not goin for looks.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

Posted
Correct, you need seperate channels, so another amp would work.

so either 1 4 channel amp or 2 2 channel amps? GAH! i hate figuring it all out.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

Posted
so either 1 4 channel amp or 2 2 channel amps? GAH! i hate figuring it all out.

so i can get 1 4 channel amp and be good, correct? because i think i might just do that.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

Posted

you dont need separate channels you would just wire them all up to a mono amp like you would any 4 12's and just flip the pos and neg on the inverted ones

Team S.M.D.

Maritime Car Audio- (2) 18" SSA ZCON D1

- American Bass 500.1

- 60 ft of 3/0

-480 Ah of battery

- (2) stock alternators (70 +90)

- Kenwood Excelon x-794, 4v preouts

car audio is just a LOT more complicated than "this amp does this power" or "this sub will be this loud". its like 2 + 2 = banana. (if that confuses you then you get the point) lol
Posted (edited)
so either 1 4 channel amp or 2 2 channel amps? GAH! i hate figuring it all out.

From what he's saying the "push" would need one channel, and the "pull" would need another.

But I though when you were doing push/pull, you just wired one set "out of phase"?

EDIT:So I'm not going crazy/totally clueless. W00T.

Edited by BJD3

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

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Posted (edited)

Just wire the 'push' subs normally and the 'pull' subs reverse polarity...

EDIT: And don't get it wrong or hilarity ensues.

Also isobaric sucks unless you HAVE to use it to fit in a small box.

Edited by Boon

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted
Just wire the 'push' subs normally and the 'pull' subs reverse polarity...

EDIT: And don't get it wrong or hilarity ensues.

Also isobaric sucks unless you HAVE to use it to fit in a small box.

well, i'm not really designing my own boxes. so the box will look like this with the 2 at first. then when i get the second set, all i have to do is add them like this so it's isobaric. but i should just stick with a mono amp and just reverse the polarity on 2? that seems pretty easy.

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

Posted

What's the point in isobaric loading them? If the box sounds right with 2 subs then it'll be terrible with 4. When you isobaric a pair of subs you halve the required box volume. That's the ONLY reason you would ever do it. Ever. People only use them for tight spots like center console boxes and home theater subs when you want good low-end extension without a rediculous sized box.

All isobaric loading is going to do for you is make your subs unload. It's like taking a 12" sub that's in a 2 cube box and plays well and sticking it in a 4 cube box. It'll be a little more efficient but it'll sound like wet shit in a paper bag because it will have no cone control.

I get the feeling you just want to do isobaric because it sounds cool, with no idea of the technical reasoning behind it. It's a complete waste of the second 2 subs.

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted
What's the point in isobaric loading them? If the box sounds right with 2 subs then it'll be terrible with 4. When you isobaric a pair of subs you halve the required box volume. That's the ONLY reason you would ever do it. Ever. People only use them for tight spots like center console boxes and home theater subs when you want good low-end extension without a rediculous sized box.

All isobaric loading is going to do for you is make your subs unload. It's like taking a 12" sub that's in a 2 cube box and plays well and sticking it in a 4 cube box. It'll be a little more efficient but it'll sound like wet shit in a paper bag because it will have no cone control.

I get the feeling you just want to do isobaric because it sounds cool, with no idea of the technical reasoning behind it. It's a complete waste of the second 2 subs.

alright, sorry if i sound snobby, but once again, I'M NOT DESIGNING THE BOX!!!!!!! if you wish, you can design a 4 12" slot port box design for 4 12" HFI12D4 subwoofers. i am not doing the round port. idc if that's what they tell me to do. so if you want to design me a box for 4 12's that is slot port, please do and i will use that. :aggressive:

1994 Ford F150 reg cab

2 HFX 12's

Audiopipe APSM-1300

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