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Test Results for an AudioPipe 3k


BigPimpin91

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how do you do this test ive always been curious could you pm me and explain what i need and how to do it

Quite simple actually.

You can skate by with 2 meters but I used 4 to get efficiency as well as power.

Use a Clamp Ammeter on on of the leads for your subs, NOT BOTH, just one.

Plug your DMM into the out puts.

Select frequency and burp.

Record measurements, do math.

Example.

56V

43A

P = E x I

56 x 43 = 2408w

R = E/I

56 / 43 = 1.3Ω

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Have you tested any other audiopipe amps?I am looking at the ap1500.1 for 158 shipped!!! And im wondering if i should sell my kicker sx1250.1 to get the audiopipe?

Any info would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Figure you half everything in the test.

A rise to 3.5Ω You're making 750w.

It's Rated 600w @ 4.

950 @ 2.

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Yeah tell me about it.

If Jacob will bring that trade in program back.

A 3000D @ .5Ω will help with some of that rise. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/hairtrick.gif

Oh, and BTW, AudioPipe 3k's WILL NOT run @ .5Ω bridged, almost instant protect as soon as you turn it up.

whats your elec? mine was fine for the 5 mins i had it on was hot as hell but it ran

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Not Sure on the RMS thing.

I used a Craftsman DC Clamp Meter.

A Really nice DMM meter for A/C.

Cheap-O Harbor Freight for A/C Current.

RadioShack for D/C Voltage.

None of those meters that you listed are true rms meters so the power that you got for your tests is extremely inflated. There is a way that you can still find rms with those meters and you would have to watch them 3 seconds into a burp and then press the hold buttons on the voltage and current. Those number that you get 3 seconds into the burp will be the closest to accurate rms numbers that you can get.

The power that you calculated for is PEAK power. Honestly that 1500 watts at 7 ohms is more like 700 to 800 watts. This is a very common mistake that quite a few people make when trying to measure power output of an amp. Even with a true rms meter the numbers can become a bit high at times due to the extreme spike of current and voltage during the first .1 seconds of the burp using to measure the power. That's why it's always best to roll the volume up when measuring for power so you don't get that spike.

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None of those meters that you listed are true rms meters so the power that you got for your tests is extremely inflated. There is a way that you can still find rms with those meters and you would have to watch them 3 seconds into a burp and then press the hold buttons on the voltage and current. Those number that you get 3 seconds into the burp will be the closest to accurate rms numbers that you can get.

The power that you calculated for is PEAK power. Honestly that 1500 watts at 7 ohms is more like 700 to 800 watts. This is a very common mistake that quite a few people make when trying to measure power output of an amp. Even with a true rms meter the numbers can become a bit high at times due to the extreme spike of current and voltage during the first .1 seconds of the burp using to measure the power. That's why it's always best to roll the volume up when measuring for power so you don't get that spike.

wat he said! when i straight burped my old t4kw i got 8800 watts out of it lol thats why u gotta roll up on the volume to get a more accurate meter and remember it all comes ddown to efficiency.. i have a teammate that does the same score 1000watts clamped then his original score..

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whats your elec? mine was fine for the 5 mins i had it on was hot as hell but it ran

3 Group 31's. but I had the car off.

It took it a little better with the car running.

None of those meters that you listed are true rms meters so the power that you got for your tests is extremely inflated. There is a way that you can still find rms with those meters and you would have to watch them 3 seconds into a burp and then press the hold buttons on the voltage and current. Those number that you get 3 seconds into the burp will be the closest to accurate rms numbers that you can get.

The power that you calculated for is PEAK power. Honestly that 1500 watts at 7 ohms is more like 700 to 800 watts. This is a very common mistake that quite a few people make when trying to measure power output of an amp. Even with a true rms meter the numbers can become a bit high at times due to the extreme spike of current and voltage during the first .1 seconds of the burp using to measure the power. That's why it's always best to roll the volume up when measuring for power so you don't get that spike.

I rolled the volume for the tests and I waited 4 seconds before I took the measurements.

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1500 watts at 7 ohms?

that doesn't even sound right

i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?

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