should i trade? 15" L7 for 2 12" cvx

[audiofanaticz]

for some reason this is hard to imagine.

now that i think of it, 1 amp is a spare.

But if you even knew on how much power lets say a rf 20001bd puts out you would be amazed.

sure the birthsheets say 2-3krms, but its actually not doing that power.

Most these factory ratings are at a steady 13.8-14.4 volts depending on manufactures, and they use a 80-100hz tone for testing.

So then my question is, how many people have that great of electrical to keep that voltage up at that point full tilt.

Then my next question is, who plays 80-100hz, or even 60-70 hz?

Now Im going to take this a step farther, and say just because your subs are wired at a 1ohm nominal load at your amp, doesnt mean your amp is playing at 1 ohm. There is impedance rise from your box, so your speaker(s) can be playing from 1-6 ohms at times depending on the frequancy of the tone being played. Making your 2000wrms amp a measly 1500 watts.

[troy]

now that i think of it, 1 amp is a spare.

But if you even knew on how much power lets say a rf 20001bd puts out you would be amazed.

sure the birthsheets say 2-3krms, but its actually not doing that power.

Most these factory ratings are at a steady 13.8-14.4 volts depending on manufactures, and they use a 80-100hz tone for testing.

So then my question is, how many people have that great of electrical to keep that voltage up at that point full tilt.

Then my next question is, who plays 80-100hz, or even 60-70 hz?

Now Im going to take this a step farther, and say just because your subs are wired at a 1ohm nominal load at your amp, doesnt mean your amp is playing at 1 ohm. There is impedance rise from your box, so your speaker(s) can be playing from 1-6 ohms at times depending on the frequancy of the tone being played. Making your 2000wrms amp a measly 1500 watts.

and???? what about the legit factory ratings that actually rate there amps at 12.8 and 12.9. i already knew all of this before you posted it up. i took all of this into account already. i dont talk bullshit just to hear myself talk or to have others comment on it.

[audiofanaticz]

and???? what about the legit factory ratings that actually rate there amps at 12.8 and 12.9. i already knew all of this before you posted it up. i took all of this into account already. i dont talk bullshit just to hear myself talk or to have others comment on it.

Rockford amps are not rated at 12.8 and 12.9 volts. they are cea compliant which is 14.4 volts.

http://ampguts.realmofexcursion.com/Rockfo...Power_T20001bd/

and even on sonicelectronix it says cea 2006 compliant (ie 14.4 volts)

Less voltage like 12.8 or 12.9 means less output power (watts)

and I still think, wait know that in the properly built box, after impedance rise and voltage drop, and a properly set gain (no clipping) the sub will be fine.

[audiofanaticz]

opps forgot the sonicelectronix link that stats they are cea 2006 compliant..

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2808_R...r+T20001bd.html

so im just guessing you got your facts wrong, or thinking of a different amp?

[troy]

opps forgot the sonicelectronix link that stats they are cea 2006 compliant..

http://www.sonicelectronix.com/item_2808_R...r+T20001bd.html

so im just guessing you got your facts wrong, or thinking of a different amp?

ok me and a buddy personally ran the amp in our comp truck. for like a year and a half. in a stock s10. fully stock electrical except for a yellowtop. running that amp alone isnt going to make your voltage drop so much to the point that it will produce the 1000rms. and as for the 12.8.9 thing i said what about the companies that do. i said nothing about rockford. if your voltage drops to the point that it is getting that low while driving or at a rev with that amp alone there is something completely wrong.

[audiofanaticz]

ok, well until you clamp your amp and check for your rise, you wont know actually output.

I know with his rise, he will see a good 2 ohm load min, even if the sub is wired in parallel for a 1 ohm nominal load.

The rfs, are rated at 14.4, if his electrical system is not the greatest, he will have noticable voltage drop.

Currently im running 1 3000 wrms amp at 1.5 nominal with a rise of 3 ohms @ 35hz and clamped it at just a tad above 1600wrms...

Impedance rise plays a big part of output power, obviously your still not understanding that I guess. Im done with thread.

PS: To the op your sub will be fine, just make the box about .5 cubed smaller then the required specs by kicker with 12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot. I dont see any problems arising. Just make sure to set your gain with a digital multimeter to ensure your not clipping the amp.

[troy]

ok, well until you clamp your amp and check for your rise, you wont know actually output.

I know with his rise, he will see a good 2 ohm load min, even if the sub is wired in parallel for a 1 ohm nominal load.

The rfs, are rated at 14.4, if his electrical system is not the greatest, he will have noticable voltage drop.

Currently im running 1 3000 wrms amp at 1.5 nominal with a rise of 3 ohms @ 35hz and clamped it at just a tad above 1600wrms...

Impedance rise plays a big part of output power, obviously your still not understanding that I guess. Im done with thread.

PS: To the op your sub will be fine, just make the box about .5 cubed smaller then the required specs by kicker with 12-16 square inches of port per cubic foot. I dont see any problems arising. Just make sure to set your gain with a digital multimeter to ensure your not clipping the amp.

look i understand what box rise and impediance and all the other bs is. but yea its over