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Tahoe System Rebuild 2009 is ALL BUT FINISHED and PLAYING!!!! UPGRADE to RF P2 8's 12/08/2009!


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the ONLY truth to that statement at all is that it will get a slight bit hotter at the soldered and buss bar areas. Nothing that will affect power anywhere near being significant. And the only reason I say that the heat is true, is because it is a simple fact we all know. Well most of us. AC power flows through wire( this is why your typical house wire is solid) and DC current flows on the surface of wire( this is why automotive wiring is stranded). Also why larger wire size is needed for more current. It is logical to say that all the surface area of the stranded wire reduces when the current gets to the bar or solder, but once again all that will produce is a bit more heat. Nothing that will affect voltage or current significantly at all. Plus I guarantee he has more than enough wire runs to handle the amount of power, current flowing through there. If not he would have had problems along time ago.

My .02

Edited by leamangriffin

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2007 Chevy Silverado

20" SS chrome rims

(4) Quantum Audio Cozmik 15's Walled

(10) 6" Selenium mids

(2) Audiopipe Tweets

Quantum Audio 2260 Amp (mids and highs)

Quantum Audio Cozmik QCA4500D 4000w Amp (subs)

Quantum Audio EQ/Linedriver

Pyramid 3 way crossover

Sony H/U

0 gauge throughout

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I also had a reply from the same guy on a comment.

Message:

as it turns out I do happen to know quite a bit about car audio as I have worked at a custom Mobile Electroinics company for the last 10 years designing high end A/V systems. (award winning systems)

I guess I should clarify what I meant by running straight to the alternator. I understand that running straight from the amps to the alternator does not make much sense because the alternator power needs to be supplemented by a storage device but batteries are the worst thing for the job. Batteries are designed to release power slowly to run an electric motor (your starter) thats it. Capacitors on the other hand are designed to charge and release power very quickly (what a car audio system requires) so when I say quick release I mean a battery that is designed like a capacitor to release power in an instant rather than slowly over time.

This theory has actually been proven in the class room (as I taught it to others)

(I do know what I am talking about)

He said it would be better, to connect the alts straight to the amps, i said he couldn't do that, he needs batteries no matter what.

I don't know how much amps you're system is going to be pulling, but i think it has to be over 1200amps, so it's impossible to play music full tilt.(without batteries.)

Edited by kirill007

Thinking is the root of all problems...

You ALWAYS get what you pay for.

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the ONLY truth to that statement at all is that it will get a slight bit hotter at the soldered and buss bar areas. Nothing that will affect power anywhere near being significant. And the only reason I say that the heat is true, is because it is a simple fact we all know. Well most of us. AC power flows through wire( this is why your typical house wire is solid) and DC current flows on the surface of wire( this is why automotive wiring is stranded). Also why larger wire size is needed for more current. It is logical to say that all the surface area of the stranded wire reduces when the current gets to the bar or solder, but once again all that will produce is a bit more heat. Nothing that will affect voltage or current significantly at all. Plus I guarantee he has more than enough wire runs to handle the amount of power, current flowing through there. If not he would have had problems along time ago.

My .02

sorry bro but it wont even get 1/100000th of a degree warmer at my soldered terminals. I could HAMMER on my system for as long as it would hammer - and i bet those things are ice-cold or the same temperature as the air around them. The ONLY time one would get hot is if it wasnt soldered right or if the lug wasnt secured to the buss bar. (or i guess if i had an 8ga wire running to a 4000 watt bass amp and if that was the case it would be getting hot for other reasons and not the soldered connectors fault)


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so if soldering is bad, i wonder whats good? Should i drill a hole and shove the wire directly into the acid inside? I dont get how anyone would think what i did was bad due to having too many of them. Hell, if i had room (and more patience) i would DOUBLE the wires you see. :D

now if i took a single run of 1/0 and cut it 10 times and spliced it back together in segments, i can understand how that could not be AS good ----but all my connections are also TERMINATIONS and not bottlenecks.....so some people need to get off the keyboard, and their meds. (speaking to the youtube idiot)


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so if soldering is bad, i wonder whats good? Should i drill a hole and shove the wire directly into the acid inside? I dont get how anyone would think what i did was bad due to having too many of them. Hell, if i had room (and more patience) i would DOUBLE the wires you see. :D

now if i took a single run of 1/0 and cut it 10 times and spliced it back together in segments, i can understand how that could not be AS good ----but all my connections are also TERMINATIONS and not bottlenecks.....so some people need to get off the keyboard, and their meds. (speaking to the youtube idiot)

Only Part that Is Gonna be Bad in your Truck is that Stock Suspension lol

Especial now you have 26's ... You better get Helper bags installed Or some Serious Shocks int the rear lol

WWW.OSGINDUSTRIES.COM

I LOVE HATER'S

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my suspension isnt stock.

really i only added 3 batteries worth of weight, some steel and some more wire......but i also removed some steel too (not just sheet metal).

it will be ok and if i scrape my fenders more then normal, i will end up doing the air ride technologies shit next - for now, i cant think about anything but gettin this shit DONE


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