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Tahoe System Rebuild 2009 is ALL BUT FINISHED and PLAYING!!!! UPGRADE to RF P2 8's 12/08/2009!


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What do you jump start, your whole suburb during a power outage?

LOL, I jump started my neighbors diesel truck the other day... He kept looking at my battery up front and was like... Why don't you get your truck? I'm like nah this'll hack it. He couldn't believe it actually started his F250 Diesel for some reason. Shit was a trip. I didn't tell him about the other G31's in the back though... hehe.

On a serious note... I think it'd take around a week and a half of leaving the trucks amps on all night and day to MAYBE drop the voltage on the battery by .5, realisticly... you have to really try and kill the damn batteries in order for them to go dead. I use to have a switch mounted in my car to turn my accessories on. I can't believe how many nights I went to bed with the damn switch on with 4 amps and the h/u on all night with a single hc1800 it was. An still be able to start the car the next morning, It'll never happen with acid batteries.... ever

Probably the best investment anyone could make is to buy an AGM/Gel battery

1993 Chevrolet SWB Pickup

Viper 791XV

Primer Stage

5/8 Static Drop

Kinetik HC1800

Big 3 Knu Flex 0

Team Tex Flex

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its not how many batteries you have, just how many amps the battery puts out to start the car, you could easily jump start the hoe with a single battery if it puts out enough amps, correct me if im wrong but this is what ive been taught... anyways looks good so far bud! i get happy when i do something small like polish my rims or even clean my truck... i cant even imagine how you feel doin all this!

IDK if this has been answered (haven't read the rest yet) but I believe you have to add 10 amps to the starting amperage per battery. I might be wrong, though...

But like I said, he should never have to worry about a dead battery.

Edited by 1992Chevy K1500

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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shit's starting to come together real clean and real fast. Damn that looks great not to get off topic but how much can I order 2 of the smd subs for and get them shiped to SC . But anyways man when you thank you going get this build done cause I cant wait to see it but I might have to pay you a visit in cali to hear this thing.

under consturstion

1988 dodge aires, 300 amp alt

2 dd z1 amps, 4 dd3512"s

4 xs power d3400 battarys and EQ7

6 sets of dd componets and 3 dd zt45

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here is one of MANY retarded messages i get during the day.....this one was too funny not to post. This DOUCHE thinks i have too many connections on my buss bars and batteries and ill be losing power instead of gaining it. He even thinks the solder made it even worse LOL!! There is some DUMBSHITS on youtube but some like this guy really stand out -

quoted from a dumbshit named "crash0veride" on youtube.

battery issue---

I have actually surpassed the 500 watt club by a fair margin. However I respectfully suggest that I could probably make 500watts sound better and louder than you could make 1000 watts. Not that I intent to challenge you but I think I have done it already about 100 times.

Have you ever soldered a chunk of power wire together because it wasn't quite long enough? If you ever have (not assuming you have) you will find that the soldered joint will get quite a bit warmer than the surrounding wire under stress. That point in the wire will cause power drain in the system. Not much of one but if you multiply that by 5 the amount of power lost can be difficult to get back. Adding even one connector inline from the power source to the item drawing the power creates about 50 times the amount of power lost than the soldered power wire does. (this has been proven in classes that I have taught by my students.) The difference is that the heat created (power lost) is dispersed very quickly into the air because of the amount of surface area of the metal object that the connector is attached to. So that HUGE bus bar you have is probably loosing you more power than you think. Thats not even addressing the amount of connectors required for the different batteries. Soldering the ends like you have may even be creating more of a problem. The more metal you have between the Alternator and your amps, the more power you are loosing. I am sure it will be quite loud but I am guessing I could make it even louder. (and cost you quite a bit less)

That is just a guess based on 10 years of daily study and practice in class room and real life environment.

I also did build the two loudest vehicles in the state of Minnesota a few years ago. I am more of an SQ guy though.

NI##A PLEASE :D


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tell him to come get a demo? SQ? im pretty sure you have some SQ right befor the bass drops and karate chops you in the throat...

The DC Integra 3 18s to 6 15 build log

Team_DC-Derrick's Youtube

Team DC Audio

where theres a will theres a wall.......

I just realized Steve has reach Voldemort status, over on JP's site he is the one who will not be named....."We dont speak his name over here, fearing it will destroy us" LOL not even in hush tones

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hahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahahaha

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I'm sorry but this was that bad ROFL!!!!!

Got carbon fiber dust cap???

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