zack74562 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 (edited) Edited August 27, 2009 by zack74562 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack74562 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
lanman31337 Posted August 27, 2009 Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Ok I see a silver wire, that goes to your battery? Then I see something with a grey connector in loom, that's your plug for the alt I'm guessing? Quote 2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds 1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4 4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's 1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1 1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass 1 - Alphasonic PCT6551 1 - Lanzar VX830 1 - JBL 22 band EQ 1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU 1 - AudioControl Epic160 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack74562 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 the first picture with the wire sticking up isn't connected i had put electric tape around it but i took it off so you guys could see it. everywire is connected except that. the reason for asking is because when i had put the alternator in firsst then when i put the batteries in they were tested at 12.5 a couple of days after driving it went up to 13.6 but it was connected the big 3 way. now that it's connnected the way it supposed to be. i'm not sure on the instruction sheet that came with the alternator it says that the orginal cables won't be used in the connection to the battery post??? i had the alternator and the batteries in for a month now and recently had a problem with my car shutting off on me. i had to get my towed home. when i tested the batteries it was at 10.4. i charged my batteries last night and my car started back up. the batteries drained so fast. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack74562 Posted August 27, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 27, 2009 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BulletInjection Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 maybe the alternator died? Loose connection? Quote My build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...8920&st=100 http://www.youtube.com/Bulletinjection Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack74562 Posted August 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 (edited) i'm still not sure wire i'm not supposed to use? on the instruction paper is on #4) connect 2 new cables(1/0 awg, not supplied) between the alternator posts and the battery posts, connecting the positive cable first and the negative post last. The original cables will not be used and should be covered with electrical tape and/or heat shrink tubing if available to prevent the cables from shorting against each other. what cables do i not use? right now i don't have the negative ground to the body because it can't reach but other than that i got every wire connected to the battery post and to the alternator except that negative ground wire that comes from the car that's supposed to be connected to the body?? i made sure all the wires were bolted down good. Edited August 28, 2009 by zack74562 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted August 28, 2009 Report Share Posted August 28, 2009 You need a Zero gauge cable running from the positive output stud from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. You need a Zero gauge cable running from the negative stud on the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery. The vehicle's stock plug plugs into the pigtail on the alternator. That's it. You can leave your stock positve alternator wire hooked up the the output stud also, it really doesn't matter either way. Leave all your factory grounds in place. Disconnect all the other batteries to simplify the situation for troubleshooting. Place your front battery on a PROPER charger overnight, it should rest out around 13.0 Volts. When you start the vehicle, take a handheld multimeter and measure the voltage at the positive and negative studs on the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage should come up from 13.0 volts (engine off) to 13.8 - 14.2 volts (engine on) Your voltage readings in either case should be almost exactly the same regardless if you measure them at the alternator, or at the battery. If they are different by more than a tenth of a volt, you have a bad connection poor cabling. Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zack74562 Posted August 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2009 (edited) You need a Zero gauge cable running from the positive output stud from the alternator to the positive terminal of the battery. You need a Zero gauge cable running from the negative stud on the alternator to the negative terminal of the battery. The vehicle's stock plug plugs into the pigtail on the alternator. That's it. You can leave your stock positve alternator wire hooked up the the output stud also, it really doesn't matter either way. Leave all your factory grounds in place. Disconnect all the other batteries to simplify the situation for troubleshooting. Place your front battery on a PROPER charger overnight, it should rest out around 13.0 Volts. When you start the vehicle, take a handheld multimeter and measure the voltage at the positive and negative studs on the alternator. With the engine running, the voltage should come up from 13.0 volts (engine off) to 13.8 - 14.2 volts (engine on) Your voltage readings in either case should be almost exactly the same regardless if you measure them at the alternator, or at the battery. If they are different by more than a tenth of a volt, you have a bad connection poor cabling. I did all of that. Charged battery overnight. i have two 0 gauge wires running to the alternator and the battery with all the stock wires in. i double checked and made sure everything was plugged in/. My alternator isn't charging my batteries at all. my uncle is a mechanic and he tested it for me. while running the car he, disconnected the battery ( Negative Terminal) and the alt completly went off. he say's that's why my batteries were draining out alternator isn't working. I had to put back my stock denso alternator and now i'm running the big 3 with only one battery. it now charges the battery. tested at 12.8 to 13 (off) and 13.8 to 14.2. will you be able to fix my rhino 250A alternator? it's only been a month since i had the alternator installed in my car. thanks a lot! Edited August 30, 2009 by zack74562 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MECHMAN Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 I did all of that. Charged battery overnight. i have two 0 gauge wires running to the alternator and the battery with all the stock wires in. i double checked and made sure everything was plugged in/. My alternator isn't charging my batteries at all. my uncle is a mechanic and he tested it for me. while running the car he, disconnected the battery ( Negative Terminal) and the alt completly went off. he say's that's why my batteries were draining out alternator isn't working. I had to put back my stock denso alternator and now i'm running the big 3 with only one battery. it now charges the battery. tested at 12.8 to 13 (off) and 13.8 to 14.2. will you be able to fix my rhino 250A alternator? it's only been a month since i had the alternator installed in my car. thanks a lot! Send it back and we will inspect it. If it is a component failure, we will repair it under warranty. Just from what I read though, I would be willing to bet that we put it on the dyno and it works just fine. Quote 1-888-MECHMAN www.Mechman.com [email protected] Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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