ISO Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 I dont want to sound like a moron but what is the big 3 upgrade? I have a 2 amps running on my stock electrical and i get heavy light dimming but i may have a messed up alt. if i stomp the accellerator on my truck and i'm bumping the voltage will drop off so much my dash light comes on for me to check guages when i do the volt have dropped to around 11 volts?? if i'm running at normal everyday speeds ie: highway it charges fine. would the big 3 do anything for this?Big 3:Add new wires from the alt,Positive and Negative and add a larger ground from the battery. Its Pinned in the electrical section of the forum on how to do it. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
ISO Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 Here man. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280 Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
maniac74 Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 thanks bro. 99 suburban 20" boss motorsport wheels big 3 installed (thanks Iraggi) alpine 9886 deck kenwood 11 band eq fosgate t5002 amp running sub kenwood ps200 amp running components jl xr components in front doors jl xr 6.5 in rear doors jl in rear roof 1 FI Q 18" with bp enclosure 8 cubes 138 sq" port 34hz Iraggi 220 ho alt (RF 1500bd coming soon)
VistaV6 Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 While you all are here, educate me, whats better? A medium size cell like a Kinetik 1800? or a Yellow Top??? this is for upfront. SUCCESS is a decision, NOT a dream. You have to name the price you are willing to pay to get it. "You didn't have an ice pick on you? Amateur. " -- Wax from Fchat.
ISO Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 thanks bro.No problem man.While you all are here, educate me, whats better? A medium size cell like a Kinetik 1800? or a Yellow Top??? this is for upfront.I have an issue with Kinetik, I just don't feel confident with them.(My opinion and theres a chance its a fact)The optimu(can't spell) I do not feel was designed with the incredibly fast discharge and recharge rates that a big system needs. The Stinger SP1000 has proven itself to me a few times and am very impressed. I'm trying out Power master now (D2400) and the only change I made was adding a 3rd sub so its not a direct compareson but I'm not as happy with it yet but all these guys like them so I'll give it a chance to prove its self. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
aquito Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 question....i have a PBX 3000 watts amp 1500.1 D class...and im gonna power 2 12 JBL 1,000 subs...i bought 4 gauge power wire from knukonceptz...would i be ok with this or is it gonna drop a lot? should i be ok if i dont put the gains lo high on the amp?
ISO Posted September 12, 2009 Report Posted September 12, 2009 question....i have a PBX 3000 watts amp 1500.1 D class...and im gonna power 2 12 JBL 1,000 subs...i bought 4 gauge power wire from knukonceptz...would i be ok with this or is it gonna drop a lot? should i be ok if i dont put the gains lo high on the amp?4 gauge is rated for 150 amps and 0/1 gauge is rated for 300 amps if its pure 100% oxygen free copper and no aluminum. (Basic rule of thumb)17 feet of 4 gauge for a 1000 watt class D amp, 17 feet of 0/1 gauge for a 1500 watt class D amp. Those are my rules of thumb. I highly recommend you get 0/1 gauge wire for your 1500 watt amp. If you use the 4 gauge wire you will be opening yourself up to potential problems in a matter of months and one of them is fire. One thing that is never really talked about here and it pertains to fuses is called the slow burn. The slow burn is a situation were a person is pulling just alittle more current than their system is designed for. Its not quite enough to pop a fuse or blow anything up imedietly(can't spell) but what it does is slowly builds up heat because of resistence and weakens materials (wire or fuses) in its path and eventually melts then blows a fuse or litterly burns the wire up and even has the potential to melt distribution blocks. In fact I keep a fuse from a remote start I did 7 years ago that came in and that was the issue and if enough people want to see it I'll post pics and to the Mods, I do feel that this is an issue that is rarely brought up and is a subject that we need to discuss and get it pinned. Sorry to bring up names but Chode actually had this problem not to long ago if I'm not mistaken and my opinion is that slow burns are very dangerous and we need to cover it more unless I have missed a thread about it. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
aquito Posted September 14, 2009 Report Posted September 14, 2009 4 gauge is rated for 150 amps and 0/1 gauge is rated for 300 amps if its pure 100% oxygen free copper and no aluminum. (Basic rule of thumb) 17 feet of 4 gauge for a 1000 watt class D amp, 17 feet of 0/1 gauge for a 1500 watt class D amp. Those are my rules of thumb. I highly recommend you get 0/1 gauge wire for your 1500 watt amp. If you use the 4 gauge wire you will be opening yourself up to potential problems in a matter of months and one of them is fire. One thing that is never really talked about here and it pertains to fuses is called the slow burn. The slow burn is a situation were a person is pulling just alittle more current than their system is designed for. Its not quite enough to pop a fuse or blow anything up imedietly(can't spell) but what it does is slowly builds up heat because of resistence and weakens materials (wire or fuses) in its path and eventually melts then blows a fuse or litterly burns the wire up and even has the potential to melt distribution blocks. In fact I keep a fuse from a remote start I did 7 years ago that came in and that was the issue and if enough people want to see it I'll post pics and to the Mods, I do feel that this is an issue that is rarely brought up and is a subject that we need to discuss and get it pinned. Sorry to bring up names but Chode actually had this problem not to long ago if I'm not mistaken and my opinion is that slow burns are very dangerous and we need to cover it more unless I have missed a thread about it. yea man post pics of it i want to see that... and thanks for the post man...i didnt knew that i could burn the car or put my family in danger for having 4 gauge wire and a big system on the car...i made another order to knukonceptz yesterday and bought 17 feet of 0 gauge just to be safe, and a anl fuse holder with a 250a fuse.. im building my system on my 95 honda civic, stock battery and stock alternator...eventually they will be changed, but not right now...i will be doing a big 3 upgrade...do you think it will make any difference due the fact that i have stock alt and stock bat? ive heard that doing the big 3 shortens the life of the stock alt?
ISO Posted September 14, 2009 Report Posted September 14, 2009 I may have over exagerated alittle bit. usually the car burnning down is from a pretty sevaer set of circumbstances. Burnt up wires and melted Distro block are what you should find more often My example is from a Remote Start that had 2 30 amp fuses in its line and when cranking the car the car was pushing out just alittle more current than the safety section was able to handle but it still wasn't quite enough current to blow the fuses and this remote start was brought back to use a few months latter. Here are pics of only one out of the two 30 amp fuses. Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character.
1992Chevy K1500 Posted September 14, 2009 Report Posted September 14, 2009 Yea ill just have to wait and see when i get it all and hook it up and see what happens. BTW its goin in single cab truck goin to take bench seats and add buckets. goin to build a box that kinda resembles a center consle. I might be able to fit a 15" bl in there but ill have to wait and do the measuring when the buckets are in but i say i can only fit the 12" it will be close thoughWhat year model? I have a 1992 Chevy Standard Cab and with bucket seats, I have about 13.5" "free space" (so to speak). I can, with enough patience, shove a 15" sub in that space. It's gonna be hella hard, but no impossible. My comp setup (Not bad for what it is): HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with: 15.4" widescreen AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor 2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz) Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD 128MB shared video memory Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit 12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours) What it does: On a USB 2.0 Wireless card
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