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Dale's Enclosure Build (update: More Pics Added)


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Posted

hey dale nice build on the box i was wondering how ur L7 sounding after its been broken in :)

Thanks, it sounds like HEAVEN. I've never heard one 15" play like this. It's really loud because of the big-ass box lol and it doesn't skip notes. I would post a vid but I don't have a camcorder.

I don't wanna use a camera, they suck when it comes to picking up movement.

Posted

nice ya im gonna be getting two 12" L7s my self i just wanted to get ur opinion on them and when u built the box did u calculate this urself or used a cal online. also what approach did u use to cut the space for the speakers. I hope you don't mind me asking question Thanks.

Posted

I don't mind you asking me questions at all. It's all good. And I'll tell you something...those L7s that you plan to get should give a 15" a run for its money IF dropped in the right box.

They are just great subs. When you say the "space" for the speakers I'm assuming you are talking about the square cut-out on the baffle. As you may have seen from the photos, I had a

double baffle. The good thing is KICKER packs a cutout template with their subs. So I used that to make the cut-out. Then I dropped the sub in and used a pencil to mark around the outer edge of

the sub. That outer edge marking would be for the second baffle, so that the sub still sits on the first baffle and has that 'flush' look. However, I didn't cut exactly at the mark...I actually opened up

almost half an inch all around so that it will be easy to pry the sub out when I need to get to it.

As for the box, I didn't use an online calculator....I used winISD to design the box. The net volume of the box is 6 cubes. The port is 3.75" width, 19.75" height and had an effective

length of 30". If you multiply those numbers together, you would see that the port has a volume of 2221.875 cubic inches. You divide that by 1728 to get 1.29 cubic feet. The port plus the

main chamber would give you a total of 7.29 cubic feet. The total box volume was actually a hair over 8 cubes. That extra volume was taken up by my 45* angle cuts, bondo and the displacement

of the sub itself.

I hoped this info helped man.

Posted

Ya man that was very helpful thanks I will probably have more question but one that i do have is regarding port in a dual sub box. I'm probably use the RE CALC to helpe me figure out the stuff, but the port they display is towards the side of the box but I want mine in between the sub will i have to adjust the port because of the two subs or do i use the same measurements that are given??? thanks in advance bro.

Posted

hmmm....it really doesn't matter where the port is...as long as the tuning is the same. When calculating the dimensions, make sure you do so for 2 subs and not one. Adding another sub changes everything. Other than that, there should be no problem is changing the positioning of the sub...just remember the tuning has to be the same...ie. surface area and effective length.

Posted

so when i use the calculator should i make the Width long enough two subs or I'm gonna have to do some calculations to combine it ..... if so how would i go about doing that ? maybe i should make a design it will be easier for you to help me

Posted

When you add a second sub, you don't just double the port dimensions...it doesn't quite work that way. There are other things that come into play when messing with port....like air velocity and box volume. But if you're calculating the specs PER sub then you can double. Example you can double the box volume and width of the port. That way the tuning will be the same for both subs. It would probably be easier for you to use a program like winISD. If you feel like you can't use that there are a few members on here (like Ray) who could design you a box in no time and will take the guesswork out of it. On the other hand if you really want to learn how to do this on your own I will be glad to give you some pointers.

One way is to calculate the port and volume and everything for one sub....Then just give each sub its own chamber (sealed from the other). That way you can have the same calculations and tunings for both subs.

Need I remind you that it really doesn't matter if the port is on the end of the box...as long as you mount the subs as far away from the port entry as possible. here are some pics...they're crappy but they get the point across.

Posted Image

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Posted

I see thanks for the info ya i been messing around with winISD still figuring out how learn. Ya I really want to learn how to do this and I'm pretty determine to do so but i will probably post again with a question or some kind of drawing.

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