Smoove Posted February 1, 2017 Report Share Posted February 1, 2017 more insane work, man 2 Team Fi 15's v1 2 DD M5's 970amps of Alt 6th order blowthroughThe truck Blowthrough build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/155555-smooves-1996-chevy-ext-cab-c1500-slow-build/The 350z build : http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/170694-smooves-2003-nissan-350z/ My FB page https://www.facebook.com/pages/Smooves-Car-Audio-and-performance/719746144805343 Team Fi Audio http://www.ficaraudio.com/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 Now I have most of the parts ready of those 2 doors, I glued and screwed it to the original panel. You can see I didn’t mind one or two screws less Once this was done, I’ve managed to work out evertything it looks like one big part. In the meanwhile the BMW artificial leather had been delivered and I covered the 2 speaker-panles. This needed to be done so the I could adjust the little front-panels for that. On this one you can see the top one is ready. The meaning is that there’ll be a nice round edge around the speakers and the outside. This is a time consuming job. Onderneath you can see the plate under construction. The first time putting filler with a rubber flap and moddelling it. Here you see I just did some on my finger. It’s sometimes the easiest way to get a perfect rounding. Sometimes the easiest way is the dirtiest Once this was all done, I needed to do the same around the speakers. I’ve already done this several times, so I knew that if I demounted the ring to sand the filler, the edge on top will break off. So I used some roundells to put under the ring, each 2mm thick. So everyting is a little bit higher. When something breaks off, I still have filler enough, and I don’t need to do it all again. Wisdom comes through the years. Putting filler and sanding Making the roundings of these 2 plates I’ve been busy for 6 hours. I could have made these just flat, but…..you know. Here the backside of the little bin. Cause I don’t want any stuff in my car, nothing will ever be in this ones, but it looks so cool when you have it. The backside of the plate I can screw off for upholstery Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
_paralyzed_ Posted February 5, 2017 Report Share Posted February 5, 2017 amazing as always! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 7, 2017 Report Share Posted February 7, 2017 This is the 8mm thick plexiglass between the doorpanel and the speakers. you can also see I mounted an orange led strip on the inside. This one is also 8mm thick Here the result with the lighting on. Here’s the plexi on the door. All you see is that 8mm The speakerpanel and the plexi will be mounted with 7 screws, and that will hold it just fine. Then, the speakers will be screwed on. After that the coverplate will be on it, so it all looks smooth. The coverpanel will be covered with carbon fibre. I’ll see this will be tightened strongly as well. Here you can see everything with the lighting on. The lighting is too bright as it is know. But once everything is mounted and ready, I’m going to adjust the brightness so it’ll look close like the interior lighting of the car. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 8, 2017 Report Share Posted February 8, 2017 On 7-10-2016 at 0:53 PM, bsneon98 said: Beautiful fab skills man. Your builds will never cease to amaze me On 8-10-2016 at 11:30 PM, MrSkippyJ said: I want to use words to describe how amazing this is, but I have none. This is simply amazing. On 21-10-2016 at 8:58 PM, HunterJohnson said: Wow I miss reading your threads. Such incredible work and thank you for sharing your story. Enjoy the simple things in life and don't take the time we have for granted. Life is beautiful. On 14-11-2016 at 4:54 AM, Audio-Concepts said: The attention to detail is beyond words On 14-11-2016 at 7:44 AM, yurvalentine said: Are you vacuum bagging that carbon? Looks like damn nice work. On 23-11-2016 at 3:58 AM, donny2512 said: One of cleanest I've seen. Just fucking awesome On 28-11-2016 at 5:56 AM, Smoove said: just felt like bumping this beautiful build On 15-1-2017 at 10:06 PM, Smoove said: Cant wait to see the new design On 16-1-2017 at 9:42 PM, neuspeedescort said: i come to this thread time and time again prepared to feel worthless and inspired all with in a few seconds. keep up the great work! On 17-1-2017 at 9:57 AM, Karkov said: Jeezuz........ On 23-1-2017 at 8:32 PM, notorious97200 said: You do amazing work, Sir. I'm tuned in. On 1-2-2017 at 6:43 AM, Smoove said: more insane work, man On 5-2-2017 at 2:08 PM, _paralyzed_ said: amazing as always! Thw dude's for the compliments. I try to do it as well as possible Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 11, 2017 Report Share Posted February 11, 2017 I’ve got the bimmer for a long time know, and everytime I think that those idiots never made an cube inlay in the door, unlike the 4 door sedan . Now I have the chance to make it myself. But to make something nice, I always have to modife several things first… Aaarg, why me!? I made the doorpanel 10mm’s thicker where I’m putting the frame. If I didn’t do this, I couldn’t make a nice rounding. Once I had this, I could make the frames. 3 things I definately had to have: you can demount them, they must be in a matt gray like the original moldings AND the bottom must come in orange lighting. The first 2 are “simple”, but the lighting, that’s something else The frames are made out of 3mm thick plexiglass, and the MDF layer is 4mm thick. Once these are prepared, I’m putting a layer of fiberglass over it. Here you can see the model of MDF wood. The meaning is to mill in a sloth of 8 by 3mm. I’m putting a LED strip in there to give light. you can see here I used a little rail to put against my uppermill so I’m getting a nice rounding. This is the slot milled. The same thing with plexi. I needed to do this so the sides of the plexi are nicely lightened. In my case this will be the bottom only. Once these are finished, I’ll tape the led strip in, and the plexi will be glued against the MDF. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 On the front, I’ve mounted some M4 tubes. On everything will be a couple of layers of polyester so the front will be nicely tight. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 13, 2017 Report Share Posted February 13, 2017 This will be in the centre of the door. Underneath you can see the molding I sprayed in primer. You can see it has the same curving of the door. In the middle (black) is a little hatch that opens when the airbag pops (hopefully never). In the back you can see the original part I heavily modified. You don’t want to know how many hours of work I’ve put into these 3 things…and it’s far from finished. Here’s the hatch in the middle piece. As you can see, it fits perfectly. I glued it in with hot glue. The meaning is I’m covering it all with carbon fibre, but then I have a big problem. I’m planning of covering it up in one piece, and then cut out the airbag panel with a stanley cutter knife. I want to make sure the carbon fibre lines will add up perfectly, and I’m thinking that’s the only way to do it. When anyone has ideas of doing it otherwise, please tell me. I also don’t want anymore tollerance between the two parts than the thickness of a cutter knife. Still not sure it’s going to work though… But I know know, it’ll be the hardest part to do in the whole “doorpanel story" What you can see here is that I made the molding run in the same way as the airbagpanel. So I have a reference where to begin my cutting. I made sure the bottom line is right under the handle (2mm). So you won’t see that if anyone goes wrong I’m also very pleased with the orange lighting. I just need to adjust the brightness. The meaning is no light will come out on top, which it does now. I’m going to paint the topside of the plexiglass black, so no light will come through. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 24, 2017 Report Share Posted February 24, 2017 Here you can see how I mounted the cover of the speakers without seeing anything of it. On the backside I screwed 4 aluminum plates, and when you look closely , you'll see a little pin (3mm) on your far right. The plate is screwed tight with the same screwes the speakers are tightened with. I took about 4 to make it tight enough. Where the little pin sits, I drew a hole, so the plate is tightened as well. Because on the backside I’ve got 4 plates standing, I needed to mill these out. Once I had this I could fit the plate. The plate will be inserted. On the bottom you can see how it fits, and on top you’ll see the rings of the speakers mounted, and so you won’t see anything of the rest, simple. The the time had come to provide everything with a layer of carbon fiber. Provided it with a couple of layer of epoxy. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
[email protected] Posted February 25, 2017 Report Share Posted February 25, 2017 Being clumsy. I forgot to put hardener with the epoxy. I washed everything with aceton, and did it again. This time with hardener. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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