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I'm absolutely enthralled by the craftsmanship you have. I've had some very intricate installs and yours just blows my mind. I hate to say it but i am for sure gonna be trying to use some of your ideas in my next customer build.

thanks for the motivation to become better than I am.

No problem dude.

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Maybe nobody know what I made …. Or nobody likes to clean.

The thing I made is called a diaphragm

A couple of words about the DIAFRAGMA. First I would like to say that I didnt know how this was called too…

As I told before, I had it in my mind to make such a thing for years now. I never bothered to think how this was going to work exactly…this was al about mathematiques, and even in school I hated that crap.

But if you look at it know, its quite simple.

To explain it a bit easier, I let the top part off.

You can see 6 plexi boomerangs laying on top of each other. You can also see that on the tips there are some inbus-scews of M4, these are the hinge-points.

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Here you can see him closed.

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Here complete, with the cover on top.

This is the slide, where you open and close this thing with.

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In the 6 slots there are imbus-screws. You can also see these are on the outside of the slot.

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Now you see it close, and you see the screws go to the middle.

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Now its closed.

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You can see there is a hole in the middle, but thats normal with this drawing. It never closes completely.

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Some pictures from on the other side.

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The meaning of this thing is, that I want it to stand behind the back of the rear seat. You may know that, in the beginning, I traded the normal rear seat for a rear seat with ski-hatch, to get the bass better into the interior.

Because I found this hole kind of BORING, Im trying to put in a diafragma. Read again: TRYING !!

You also know the amplifier comes before that when its open, so I need to check and measure if I still have enough place to put it all.

Im going to make everything out of other materials, about 18mm thick…

It also needs to open and close automatically, but thats easy to sort out. The biggest problem is to ensure it doesnt rattle while driving, but I may have a solution for that problem too…

Now about the hole (when everything is close up)… I think Ive found a cool solution for that too.

Im only hoping for one thing now… that I have enough place for this all…

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  • 2 weeks later...

These will be the final boomerangs for the diaphragm. I used anodized aluminum of 1.5mm thick.

This material is also used on the backside of the Focal Woofers.

I taped 6 plates on each other, and held it to the copy-mill. The uppermill is now the best tool to fnish these things off… hope the disc doenst go in to tears now .

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Here you can see the upperside of the boomerangs.

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And this is how the backside looks. Youll see right-away that I taped some self-adhesive black vilt on it.

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I had to do this, so I couldnt get any scratches on the aluminum when everything opens and closes.

Secondly this will prevent vibrating when Im banging the install.

Cause the aluminum is only 1.5mm thick, I screwed in some screws with a bit of loctite on it. That way Im sure it wont fall apart.

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The plexi boomerangs I made at first, landed in the rubbish bin…but they always seem to come back. How is that possible ?

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In the meanwhile I finished the diaphragm. This is the aluminum plate of 4mm thick where it'll get on to.

With the 6 little pads that stick out on the side, I can tighten it completely.

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The black ring you can see here, is MDF I painted. The ring I used from the first diaphragm I made.

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This plate is also 4mm thick, and I put some more work into adjusting the slots where the screws will rest into.

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The piece on the right side, will serve for the transmittion. Later I can u on this, what I like, and what's good.

You can also see I glued on a piece of vilt against the vibration.

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Here you see the boomerangs sliding over eacht-other when it closes.

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This is a cardboard ring of 2mm thick I cut out. Did this to catch the vibrations, and to adjust it all even better.

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Here the upper ring of 4mm is mounted on. On the bottom of this ring, I also glued some vilt.

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Here in close position.

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The anodised aluminum in the middle will look great in my opinion. Very satisfied I've chosen this material.

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This is the backside.

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I must say this was easy for me to make.

The biggest problem was to make it tremble and vibration-free, and I did it.

When I open and close it all, you can feel the tention that's on it. I can adjust this delicately with the cardboard I used.

I screwed it all tight on a plate here on my table, and now I'm busy to adjust it subtle before adding the motor.

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As always incredible work bro... The thing that amazes me the most is how you came up with all these ideas. It really dumbfounds me how u got all these ideas. So many things on this build I've never seen before or done in this manner.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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i dont even know what im looking at in your last post but i want it

R.I.P!

(Nov-29-2009)

92 explorer

- 4 Atomic Apxx 15s duel .7s - 4rth order bandpass wall -4 powerbass XA-3000D's - 16 8volt batts wired to 16 volts - (9+/9-) runs 0gauge - 152.3 Db @ 29hz

current build

97 chevy lumina4 - 1 Atomic Apx 18 - 6 cube slot port trunk sealed off - 1 powerbass XA-3000D - 2 optima G31s in spare tire18 1 run 1/0

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i dont even know what im looking at in your last post but i want it
LMAO! I feel you bro, it just looks like something that would make your system sound better/look cooler doesn't it?

Alpine CDA-117...Memphis 16-X03

CDT Audio SQA-4100...SEAS Prestige H1396...Crescendo MP-6

Soundstream Rubicon 1.2500d...Digital Designs 3512f

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