barros57 Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 So, basically im getting the vibe, this amp will clip the signal if i try to run it at 1500 rms @ 1 ohm? Thus destroying the orion 10" again. I dont want to destroy a bran new recone, Is there any other cheap, but well built amps I should look at? Also, on the orion specs http://www.orioncaraudio.com/Support/Guides.aspx It says the sub must be powered by an orion amp with Intelli-Q? Is this just marketing BS? My 93 chevy truck Orion HCCA 15's Build 6K HID's 2 orion HCCA 15.4 2 AP30001D's 2 optima yellowtops, 2 C&D 270fr's, all 3 tsunami 1/0, CS144 190 amp Rockford p200-2 Rockford p200-2 Rockford p300-1 Kole KX1 5500D -broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 x2 LOL, refer to previous comments, the amps such as the Sundowns and Zapcos and IA20's etc.... use much more durable and higher quality parts than its 200 dollar equal, so the amps using the better parts will put out rated or more than rated with a clean output, while the 200 dollar counterpart will do usually much less than rated with a muddy type of output. The difference is making clean 1500rms and the other making a clipped to shit rms. maybe DB-R can help us on the parts issue, i've seen the guts of many amps, and all the parts, fets, caps, even them lil blue square things, that i can read, mostly have the same numbers on them, so what makes them more durable, only differences i see is some the layouts i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
barros57 Posted October 11, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 maybe DB-R can help us on the parts issue, i've seen the guts of many amps, and all the parts, fets, caps, even them lil blue square things, that i can read, mostly have the same numbers on them, so what makes them more durable, only differences i see is some the layouts I agree. I have a RF 500-1bd. Everything is built on top of everything else. I needed to replace some power FET's and I had to take half of the freekin circuit board apart. How is it that the older amps are just as good, yet much simplier with half the components? My 93 chevy truck Orion HCCA 15's Build 6K HID's 2 orion HCCA 15.4 2 AP30001D's 2 optima yellowtops, 2 C&D 270fr's, all 3 tsunami 1/0, CS144 190 amp Rockford p200-2 Rockford p200-2 Rockford p300-1 Kole KX1 5500D -broken Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
big-poppa-thump Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 Hey, Did you ever try connecting them with the master/slave amp setup? No, I've never tried strapping them together. I know they can be, I've even heard of people successfully strapping them to the similiar power acoustic model, but to be completely honest, I considered doing it once before a show and was too lazy to try it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 ok we know it puts out 1843,at what thd probly 5%, so how much did that 1843 cost you????? so basically you could get two ap1500 and still have money left over and more watts , so what you're really paying for is all those calls to customer service, and paying their checks. Simple question, what is the dollar-per-watt of all those amps , when u do the math you will see that even if the cheaper amps, like audiopipe. autotek, crunch, etc.etc. u would find all thoses cheaper amps have a better dollar per watt ratio than thoses high end amps. then u wanna say (you get better cosumer service and a quailty part) well i have two Lanzar Vibes 1200D ($200) each, in my dailly driver, for the last 10 yrs , says that cheap stuff do last, and as for costumer service, if my amp never breaks, i shouldn't be on a one-on-one name base with cosutmer service. from the review i've seen on the most of these so-called high end amp's they use mostley the same parts, same fets, same number of fets, same caps, same resitors, same power teroids, and even same zenon boards as the bands that cost hundred less, and cheaper amps dont last as long nor can handle as low of ohm loads or as low of voltageare you forgetting that cheaper amps dont produce as much clean power either...meaning once u oscope the amp ull find it makes 100s of watts less than it says do some research bro... u get what u pay for I agree. I have a RF 500-1bd. Everything is built on top of everything else. I needed to replace some power FET's and I had to take half of the freekin circuit board apart. How is it that the older amps are just as good, yet much simplier with half the components?again, older amps werent as clean or efficient.... hence why wattages were also very lownot to mention some of the earlier amps didnt even have crossovers in them which takes up space lots has changed when u are doing 250 x 4 at 4 ohms vs 25w X 4 at 8ohms hell in early 90s a 1200watt rms amp was HUGE, now a 1200 watt amp is the size of a medium book Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 ...all the parts, fets, caps, even them lil blue square things, that i can read, mostly have the same numbers on them, so what makes them more durable, only differences i see is some the layouts... 2 things here... 1. They don't - I'm not sure if it was this thread or another one but there's a big difference between an amp with 12 IRFZ44N vs 12 IRFP3205 in the power supply. The one with the 3205's will probably do twice as much power but cost 3 times as much. So if you want a smaller footprint, less heat, etc etc, you buy the more expensive dollar/watt one. 2. There's a big difference between a proper Korean or japanese transistor and a dodgy chinese or Moroccan ripoff of it. It might have the same numbers printed on the case but when you stick 100A through a part that small, will the knockoffs still take it? Or will they blow/get hot/drop voltage/switch badly? And there, again, is your difference. 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 and cheaper amps dont last as long nor can handle as low of ohm loads or as low of voltage are you forgetting that cheaper amps dont produce as much clean power either...meaning once u oscope the amp ull find it makes 100s of watts less than it says do some research bro... u get what u pay for again, older amps werent as clean or efficient.... hence why wattages were also very low not to mention some of the earlier amps didnt even have crossovers in them which takes up space lots has changed when u are doing 250 x 4 at 4 ohms vs 25w X 4 at 8ohms hell in early 90s a 1200watt rms amp was HUGE, now a 1200 watt amp is the size of a medium book i agree in part, but most amp failure is on user not following the amps specs. Now my cheap amps is runing on 10 1/2 years old with no issues, i only paid 400 bucks for the pair, U can blow any amp if you run it below specs, as far a clean watts, what is clean watts, i've seen the DAT hellfire 2500 put out 2500 watts at 1%thd and 3200 watts at 5% and this amp cost almost a grand, and that's almost the same specs the ap3000d/sound magus puts out, +/- 20 to 30 watts, i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 2 things here... 1. They don't - I'm not sure if it was this thread or another one but there's a big difference between an amp with 12 IRFZ44N vs 12 IRFP3205 in the power supply. The one with the 3205's will probably do twice as much power but cost 3 times as much. So if you want a smaller footprint, less heat, etc etc, you buy the more expensive dollar/watt one. 2. There's a big difference between a proper Korean or japanese transistor and a dodgy chinese or Moroccan ripoff of it. It might have the same numbers printed on the case but when you stick 100A through a part that small, will the knockoffs still take it? Or will they blow/get hot/drop voltage/switch badly? And there, again, is your difference. I hear ya Boon i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Decaf Posted October 11, 2009 Report Share Posted October 11, 2009 i agree in part, but most amp failure is on user not following the amps specs. Now my cheap amps is runing on 10 1/2 years old with no issues, i only paid 400 bucks for the pair, U can blow any amp if you run it below specs, as far a clean watts, what is clean watts, i've seen the DAT hellfire 2500 put out 2500 watts at 1%thd and 3200 watts at 5% and this amp cost almost a grand, and that's almost the same specs the ap3000d/sound magus puts out, +/- 20 to 30 watts,all im saying is more expensive amps are more tolerable of adverse conditions and will tolerate more abuse.... which is a real world issueinclude slightly clipped signal plus low ohm loads plus voltage drops and the overbuilt amp will last longer, period ur case of "$400 in 10 1/2 years" is rare (and nice to hear), but likely u never pushed ur system to its limits like most of us do on a daily basis put ur 10 1/2 year old amps against a modern comparable amp and the older would likely show its weaknesses on the meter and in heat produced ur forgetting inflation too: $400 in 1998 is $530 in 2009 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corrie32 Posted October 12, 2009 Report Share Posted October 12, 2009 all im saying is more expensive amps are more tolerable of adverse conditions and will tolerate more abuse.... which is a real world issue include slightly clipped signal plus low ohm loads plus voltage drops and the overbuilt amp will last longer, period ur case of "$400 in 10 1/2 years" is rare (and nice to hear), but likely u never pushed ur system to its limits like most of us do on a daily basis put ur 10 1/2 year old amps against a modern comparable amp and the older would likely show its weaknesses on the meter and in heat produced ur forgetting inflation too: $400 in 1998 is $530 in 2009 lol i'm a laid back kind of guy, plus i've learned over the yrs, plus i love taking care of my stuff( these audio companies will not get rich off me). i work to hard for my money. i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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