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ok sooooo got my 200 amp alt decent battery up front actually its prolly junk i got it from autozone its the biggest i can fit up front and a yellow top in the trunk im still droping to 11 somtimes do u guys think that this is just because i have way to much going in such a littlke car, because i dont have enough battery to back it up or because i have a dry cell and a regular battery any advice would help?

Greg,
Triple C Auto Niagara Falls NY

Under construction
2002 Chevy Suburban

pioneer 8000NEX

3 Sets of ARC Audio 6000 components in custom front doors

2 Powerbass midrange in center council

4 Super tweets

2 Focal 900.6 6 channels

4 American Bass VFL Comp 15's (currently running 2)

DC 12.0k

DC Power dual alt bracket

2 XS Power D3400's under the hood

3 C&D technologies 110ah in rear

along with multiple runs of 0 AWG OFC

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Yeah, what kind of alt. We had someone (I think it was TylerTron) who had an alt that was supposedly "tested" by 3 independent sources to put out what it was rated at. Well, Dom (Iraggi Alternator) got a hold of it and tested it to put out 4 amps at idle. So if it's an off-brand, you wasted money on your alt and will end up spending more to get a better one that you would have just buying a good one in the first place.

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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When does it drop that bad? At idle?

Dodge Magnum with custom 300c front end, laid out on air bags

*4) 12" Cadence Daytona walled

*1) AudioQue 20k

*270a DC Power Alt (Dual coming soon)

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cardomain makes it look like 3800 watts of massive power off stock? alt and 2 yellowtops

batts are just a reserve, once their drained the voltage drops. if the alt cant charge faster than the amps draw current, you'll run into voltage issues

Build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...hl=avalon+build

monster/rockford/kicker/stinger cables, pioneer source, jbl highs/amps, kinetik/shuriken batts, iraggi alt, dei security, dc subs(atleast for now)

Team DC

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Is it like that at idle, at xxxx rpm, with a load, without a load, etc...

2 - Audiopipe AP30001Ds

1 - Lanzar Opti Scion 600.4

4 - Lanzar Optidrive 1232D's

1 - Lanzar Opti 5.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6.1

1 - Lanzar Opti 6C midbass

1 - Alphasonic PCT6551

1 - Lanzar VX830

1 - JBL 22 band EQ

1 - Lanzar SDBT75NU

1 - AudioControl Epic160

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1999 Nissan Altima

Pioneer Avic-D3

2 Massive Audio DB3000's

2 Massive Audio QC 12's

JL Audio ZR's up front and XR's in the rear

Massive audio HD800.4

Optima Yellow top in the trunk

200amp H.O. alt from Nate at Exessive Amperage

Greg,
Triple C Auto Niagara Falls NY

Under construction
2002 Chevy Suburban

pioneer 8000NEX

3 Sets of ARC Audio 6000 components in custom front doors

2 Powerbass midrange in center council

4 Super tweets

2 Focal 900.6 6 channels

4 American Bass VFL Comp 15's (currently running 2)

DC 12.0k

DC Power dual alt bracket

2 XS Power D3400's under the hood

3 C&D technologies 110ah in rear

along with multiple runs of 0 AWG OFC

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i can be driving and the drop will go to low 12's at a stop it drops to 11's

Greg,
Triple C Auto Niagara Falls NY

Under construction
2002 Chevy Suburban

pioneer 8000NEX

3 Sets of ARC Audio 6000 components in custom front doors

2 Powerbass midrange in center council

4 Super tweets

2 Focal 900.6 6 channels

4 American Bass VFL Comp 15's (currently running 2)

DC 12.0k

DC Power dual alt bracket

2 XS Power D3400's under the hood

3 C&D technologies 110ah in rear

along with multiple runs of 0 AWG OFC

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