Bigg Boy

I would check these out. Alot cheaper then the RF. http://www.minidsp.com/

http://www.audiosavings.com/products/Car-Audio-Sound-Processor/CADENCE-CVL-2XR-24DB-2-WAY-CROSSOVER-and-9V-LINE-DRIVER/CVL2XR.aspx Thats what I used in my work truck, works great.

Whats the offset of the rims? could be possible that its too high

DAMN THAT IS CHEAP!

Rent a fender roller, and use a heat gun. Or have a shop do it

You running shocks? Also just a heads up when you go to play with your bags its best to throw the truck's parking break on, thats will wind up killing your tranny from rolling back and forth like that. I like it tho, different then the norm.

To be 100% honest I would never buy a car/truck that has it done all ready. I would rather see you buy a stock one, and make sure its done right, you don't want some one else's head aches. You can find a nice s10 for under $3500, and do everything your self, and know how to fix it, when stuff breaks, and it will break.

x2 I buy the pro stuff by the gallon, called last touch. If the car is dirty DO NOT use quick detailer on it, you will get swirl marks.

Unplug the alt and see if the truck idles fine. I had this happen to me when my alt was bad. Above 1200 rpms it was fine, at idle I would bounce between 12-14.7v

I am walled at the c pillar, I know allot of people who are. It performs like a normal wall does, just takes a little more to pressurize the cabin and they tend to peak at a lower freq.

Well here is the thing with the tranny, it has like 8 months left on a warranty from the previous owner. But obviously the guy beat the piss out of this truck. So what did he do to the truck before I got it. I feel the same way about the truck, just about everything is new. Knowing is better then not knowing. My parents on the other hand call it the devil and tell me to burn it, haha.

I am stuck on this and need some opinions on this one guys. I bought a 1999 s10 to be my everyday driver, and to keep the magnum as my pure show car. I travel 120 miles round trip for work, in and out of NYC, so the magnum is not the right car to be doing that in. I bought the truck for $5k, was in great shape. Only had 73k on it, only thing I knew that was wrong was it need tie rod ends. No biggie, $250. 2 weeks after I bought the truck, I noticed a tapping sound. I checked the oil, it look like it needed to be changed, so I changed it, went away. Few days after that it made a turn for the worse. I thought it was maybe the lifters, turned out to be 2 of the wrist pins... So $2,500 later for a brand new motor, 3 year warranty.... We did heads, and cam. Should be me some where around 240-250hp, nothing to crazy cause I need this to be a dependable daily driver. Now a month after (3 days ago) my air bag lights come on, turns out its two sensors, replaced them $220. As I pull out of the shop, I hear a rubbing noise, slow down, hear bang bang BANG! as I stop. Rolled it back into the shops parking lot, let it sit there over the weekend. My guys at the shop calls me today, and tell me the hole rear axle need to be rebuilt, all but 1 barring is bad, and the gears in the diff are screwed up pretty bad. Told me $750. I am now into this truck $8,700. KBB on it is about $5k. I might get $6k for it because of the new motor and all the new parts... No my question is... Would you guys keep it since most of the stuff in the truck is new, and hope I run into nothing else big? Or cut my loses and sell it for what I can sell it for, and pick up another car and possibly go through this all again. I can't afford to dump hundreds of dollars into this thing every couple weeks. My mechanic says after this the truck should be just about bullet proof, and I should get another 100k out of it with no major problems, but then again, he said that when we dropped the new motor in. Thank for your time guys.

Bolt through the floor with big fender washers

Depends how much hardener you used.

Your going to have to c-notch the frame in the rear.

Sadly there is nothing I can really do. The front lip is about .5" off the ground. when we put the stock wheels on it i cant drop it all the way or it slams down on the bumper. I think she is low enough tho I can drop the back another 1" by taking the stops out but then I would rub when I lay it out. I like being able to just pick up the front end and roll. Plus then it wouldn't sit even,

Let me know what you guys think.

1/4 t-nuts and you'll be more then fine. Put a small dab of lock tight on them also.

To me honestly fuses are cheap compared to risking a fire, if you dont have everything fuses, carry 1/0 cutters on you incase

Call and ask to speak to Zack he is a great guy and knows his stuff.

The chamber to the right of the woofer confuses me. What was the thought behind it.

Firestone are cheap, Contitech arnt bad either. You my friend of allot of cutting to do ahead of you, to lay out on 28's

Not to be a dick, if you have to ask and your installer doesn't know, don't even think about going at this project. You can serously ruin your car if you don't know what your doing. Your looking around 4k to get it to where you would want (thats a good price). To answer your question. You need: Bags Tanks Compressors, ton of fittings line valves wire gauges etc...

For $600 I would try to get new stuff, instead of used off CL

I would think doing an x pipe would get rid of some of the drone/back pressure.