Baydestrian Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Stock alt is 140amps and I just got it replaced the other day...only running 500rms but I hope to add some nice speakers and amp them and then maybe jump up to a Jl 1000/1 for my subs... My battery is under my backseat so I have a positive post under the hood if I ever need a jump...can I run the wiring off that or do I have to run the wiring through the car from the battery itself? Quote 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) What size wiring connects the post to the batt though?? Where does the alt + go to, batt under seat or the post under hood?? You can still wiring the normal big 3 just using the positive post, but IMO the weak link will be that wire that connects the two. Edited October 19, 2009 by Marlo Stanfield Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baydestrian Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 (edited) Not too sure on wiring connect size but I'm 99.9% sure that it connects to the battery under the seat since there is nothing attached to the + post under the hood. The alt is on the side of the engine since its a special water cooled alternator I can't really even see where the wire from it goes...I just had a shop replace it last week and just to get it out you need to flush the cooling system then remove the fan/radiator The voltage for my car is acting weird but most times I'll get a .3-5 drop in voltage at the most so I'm thinking maybe just go for a small cap to stiffen it. I'm seeing no dimming, I just don't want to kill this alt. Edited October 19, 2009 by wonderbreadSTS Quote 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 With your factory battery under the seat I would: Run a 1/0 power wire from your alternator positive to your battery positive under the rear seat (keeping the factory wire intact and still hooked up). Run a engine ground (preferably from an alternator mounting stud) to the cars chassis/body. Run a ground from your stock rear battery to the cars chassis/body (try and follow the factory ground if possible and ground at the same spot if you can) Then when your ready to add amps, simply run your amps positive and negative from your amp to your stock rear battery. Also remember you can always upgrade to a better battery later on (like a powermaster d3400) Make sure for all ground connections on the car try to find a thick metal place to ground too (using the frame is preferred but on a uni-body type car that maybe hard). Also remember to sand away in paint or rust to ensure a clean metal on metal connection for the least resistance possible!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baydestrian Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Where would be a good place to fuse it at? Quote 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 If you're fusing the wire from shorts and what not then within 18" of the connection point on the batt. Btw follow what bangin caddy said, it's exactly where I was going with it. Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baydestrian Posted October 19, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 now I'll have to see if I can even get through the firewall, I can't drill through it myself Quote 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
audiofanaticz Posted October 19, 2009 Report Share Posted October 19, 2009 Make sure to fuse both ends of the power wire, by the alternator and the battery. Just 1 fuse wont prevent a short from starting a fire. As for a hole in your fire wall, check on the driver side, behind your gas and break pedals. You will have to pull the carpet back a little bit. Every vehicle has unoccupied holes in the firewall for running wires, or other options your car didnt come with. Sometimes you may have to make them bigger however. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Baydestrian Posted October 20, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 thanks for all the advice Quote 2015 Mazda 6 JVF Customz 4.0 Proto 15>Wolfram W4500 @ .5ohm 2 Sundown Neo 6.5 + 2 CT Meso Tweeters (Front) x Kicker KS6.5 (Rear)>JL Audio VX400/4i NSB-AMG35 (front) / 40ah Lithium Headway (Rear) built by Erni Audio & Electrical Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Soulman07 Posted October 20, 2009 Report Share Posted October 20, 2009 Factory wiring size is 4 gauge... Just run the wire from alternator + to battery +. Quote 1993 Chevrolet SWB Pickup Viper 791XV Primer Stage 5/8 Static Drop Kinetik HC1800 Big 3 Knu Flex 0 Team Tex Flex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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