Forevrbumpn Posted May 8, 2007 Report Posted May 8, 2007 how long is the port, and how large is the box? I personally love port area, with long port length I have a ritual called "terminator". I crouch in the shower in the "naked terminator" pose. With eyes closed I crouch for a minute and visualize either Arnie or the guy from the 2nd movie. I then start to hum the T2 theme. Slowly I rise to a standing position and open my eyes. It helps me get through my day. The only problem is if the shower curtain sticks to my terminator leg. It sorta ruins the fantasy.
EricR Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Posted May 8, 2007 34 wide 14 high top depth 23 bottom depth 29....then port is 5 inches wide by 12 1/2" high and 32 inches long... i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
EricR Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Posted May 8, 2007 Ok well i went and got the mdf this morning took a few pics. I have a dentist appointment so ill be back later. i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
zaxfire69 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Posted May 8, 2007 Do it Big!! Thats what I am talkin about. I like the Borrow the wife's truck..Man you doing it Big Time..! Good luck man..
EricR Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Posted May 8, 2007 Ok started building the box. I only had a couple hours because my dentist appointment ran late. Had 2 fillings....i hate dentists. But anyway this is what i got done today, I had to offset the end of the port because the back of the box is angled to fit flush to the back of my seat. Now off to get my daughter from school. I have no plans tomorrow so hopefully i can finish it. i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
jcm1689 Posted May 8, 2007 Report Posted May 8, 2007 lookin good so far keep it up! R.I.P. KOOLAID KING --- Thomas Johnson 04/02/1986 - 06/09/07 THUNDER CAR AUDIO Chris's 91 hatch - 2 18" BTL's, 2 T40001BD's, 153+ dbs Chris's 2005 BMW 525i Chris's 2002 Ford Ranger 2004 Silverado Blow Through 1999 Silverado - 4 15" SSD's Fiberglass Top Infinity G20 *RIP KOOLAID KING* Dodge Stratus - 2 12" Power HX2's, Fiberglass Baffle
civichatch Posted May 8, 2007 Report Posted May 8, 2007 I am watching this one! x2 im keeping my eye on this build. Looks like a great start. Good work man and keep the pics coming. System Specs: Alpine SWR-1542D 15" sub Sealed Subwoofer Box MTX mxa 6001 Class D 774watts RMS @ 2ohms MTX Bass Knob Pioneer 6.5's in doors MTX Thunderdome 6x9 in rear Stinger 1 Farad capacitor 80 amp stinger fuse BIG 3 in 4 gauge wire 4 gauge power/ground wire JVC MP3 CD Car Deck (KD-G320) 12 gauge Monster speaker wire to Sub 16 gauge Stinger speaker wire to doors Stinger Gold Plated Battery Terminals
EricR Posted May 8, 2007 Author Report Posted May 8, 2007 thanks guys.....its been a few years since ive built any boxes i used to build em all the time so im kinda rusty...startin to get the hang of it again though i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
EricR Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Posted May 9, 2007 ok so i got some more done....when i was at home depot i picked up this thing called a Mouse from black n decker man that thing works like a charm....ive smoothed almost everthing out that i have done....i am going back tomorrow to get some more inserts for it eventually i want to paint the box and it needs to be nice n smooth i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?
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