Chris Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Just figured I'd start up a thread about soldering & the pros & cons of it. If anybody has some advice in the following areas: -Tips & tricks -Where to buy in bulk -What's the kind to look for -Why it's better than crimping wires Let everybody know & share your ideas and/or expertise! Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bibby>Chode Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 This would be great, becasue everytime i try to solder. i fail. tips and tricks would be great. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 Rosin core solder. Flux is unnecessary. Better than crimping because it's stronger, and muuch better looking. Doing it's pretty simple. Use an acetylene torch (or propane, pretty much anything that'll heat it up). Insert the ring terminal over the wire, and heat both the wire and the ring terminal fairly evenly to ensure proper solder penetration. The metal should be hot enough to melt the solder. Use the hot wire/ring terminal to melt the solder, not the flame itself. Fill the terminal until the solder starts to pool on top, and then try and get it to have a smooth top. To help with this I normally leave a real small gap between the end of the wire and the top of the terminal, so that no part of the wire is sticking out. Grind off any excess. Remember to put on the rubber ring terminal cover before hand, so you can slide it back over the ring terminal easily. Quote A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 The only solder I had ever used until a few weeks ago was acid-core & contained lead. Then we working in my electronics lab at the college using some rosin-core that had much less lead in it than I was used to. The stuff worked like a friggin dream & I'm wondering if there's even better stuff out there. I can solder pretty well, but as far as what kind to work with & where to get it, I'm lost. Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 You can find solder at just about any home depot/osh/other hardware supply store. Quote A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted May 9, 2007 Author Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 You can find solder at just about any home depot/osh/other hardware supply store. Any place online for cheaper? Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Saltine Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 you would prolly spend more getting it shipped to you than buying it from the store. solder is real cheap. i still crimp wires though. not everyone has a crimper big enough to do 4-0 guage wire but i have one, and it makes some crimps that wont come loose and its just as good as solder. to each his own though Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Dale Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 1. In the interest of your health, use lead-free solder and do not inhale fumes if you can help it. 2. When soldering do not heat up the solder, heat up the wire you intend on soldering or you will get a "cold solder" connection which doesn't last long 3. Solder naturally bonds better to clean surfaces. 4. Soldering your connection is desirable because the bond is stronger and more permanent. Furthermore, a soldered connection will conduct electricity far better than crimping alone. 5. If soldering 1/0 Wire, use a torch instead. It will make your life easier. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shibby Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 I was wondering what you guys mean by heating the wire, do you put the torch to the wire then put the ring on, or do you put the ring on and heat the ring which makes the wire heat up Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted May 9, 2007 Report Share Posted May 9, 2007 I put the ring on and then heat both the ring and I aim the torch at the wire in the center, heats everything up. Quote A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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