Jaredturp Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 You will not regret going with allthread!! Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddlydudly8989 Posted November 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 You will not regret going with allthread!! who knows maybe ill do a lil of both. i know ill have to do one dowel rod because of the port but thats no biggie. well its bout 1 30 am here so i betta get my ass to bed so i can get up in the mornin and head to menards!! ill keep you guys posted and take some pics of what ill get. o and some of the box. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Domo Kai Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 The Allthread will usually stick out of the box- So I usually use 1/2" Threaded Rod for the W and D and 1"+ Dowel for the H (thicker the better) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
buddlydudly8989 Posted November 28, 2009 Author Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 The Allthread will usually stick out of the box- So I usually use 1/2" Threaded Rod for the W and D and 1"+ Dowel for the H (thicker the better) that sounds like a VERY good idea. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sully Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 I don't use either, guess I'm old school. I've always braced with MDF, done properly you will have little to no flex. I've see a lot of builds on here that didn't need half the bracing that was used. If you are doing 4 woofers on a single flat surface you will need 1.5" mdf on that side, a couple strategically placed braces and you will be more than fine. If you are going with a packman style face on the box the design alone makes it less likely to flex and a few MDF braces are going to make it rock solid. Easiest way to look at it is the larger the mounting surface the woofer are on the more bracing you will need. You can also design the port so that it acts like a brace to cut down flex. Quote 2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's 2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine. 2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's 2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted November 28, 2009 Report Share Posted November 28, 2009 allthread will of corse be stronger. but dowels can be just as effective IMO. their only weakness is how they hold onto the box. ive had one break the glue holding it to the wall. if you get a screw on each end along with the glue, maybe even some fiberglass, i dont see any reason why it wouldnt be as effective as allthread. Quote If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 With a planned enclosure of that size then I'd definitely suggest all thread without question.. Plus I'd suggest double up on each wall and triple baffle. As long as u account for the bracing when designing the enclosure then, just like in the electrical department there is not such thing as overkill. Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
loburbon Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 allthread is by far the best choice for strength. but if you want seemless looks, go with the dowel rods. just make sure you secure the rod like skittles said. 2x4's work but the take up more internal space then the other choices. as for double and triple layering the box, it is not needed unless your building 50000 watt monster. just build you box solid and brace it well, you will have no flex. and yes i can speak from experience. Quote 2000 gmc yukon 4 sundown Zv3 15's 4 dd m2a's kenwood kdc-x994 2 batcap 4000's 1 batcap 2000 dual alts. 154@37hz and climbing http://www.cardomain.com/ride/3231683 http://www.myspace.com/torque150 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bigg Boy Posted November 29, 2009 Report Share Posted November 29, 2009 use 1/2" thread rod, and never have flex problems Quote Dodge Magnum with custom 300c front end, laid out on air bags *4) 12" Cadence Daytona walled *1) AudioQue 20k *270a DC Power Alt (Dual coming soon) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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