03navi Posted December 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 Oh....my bad...was looking at the wrong sig info...lol....i was talking about the Treo's can i drop them to .5 their dual 4? Quote Vehicle: 2003 Lincoln Navigator Exterior:Custome Air bags, Chrome Grill, 8000K Hid Low & Fogs, 24in rims,Corsa dB Performance Exhaust Amplifiers:Kicker Kx2500.1, MA Audio M700XE Batteries: 1 Kinetic Hc2400 Battery Electrical: STOCK Charging System! Tsunami 40farad Capacitor, Enclosure: 8 ft³ tuned to 45Hz Interchangeable Ports(34Hz) Headunit: STOCK! (DVD,CD,Navigation), AudioControl LC6i, AudioControl Epicenter Mids/Highs: (4)Sets Of Focal Access Component 690 CA1, 2) Sets Of Infinity Reference Tweeter Subwoofers: 2) 15 Power Acoustik Mofo Wire: Multiple Runs Of 1/0 Gauge Streetwire Cable Video: http://www.youtube.com/2treo15 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
aviator08 Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 nope Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Berto Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 (edited) I think you should just get a more powerful amp at 2ohms since it would be less stressful on your electrical system, but that's just me. Edited December 12, 2009 by Berto Quote TEAM FLEX ISSUES Car: 1985 Oldsmobile Delta 88 Royal 24" Rims HU: 7" Carputer, Planet Audio EQ, iPhone. Coax: T3 Audio 4" speakers Subs: 2x 18" T3 Audio TSNS (walled) Sub Amp: DC 9k SOON TO COME T3 Audio 6x9s MB Quarts 6.5" comp set MAYBE ADDED 2nd DC 9k Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jmanjr82 Posted December 12, 2009 Report Share Posted December 12, 2009 you need to figure out what your getting for power now and what your imp rise is, you could always get another amp and run them at 1ohm 1 per sub and gain match them, but by the sounds of it you really dont know much about audio in general (not sayin that in a bad way) but thats how it seems. As said 0.5 is tough on electrical you need to understand a few things though current draw of the amp, voltage dip, output of the alt and take into consideration what you will need for overall power, the kinetik site is nice because they have the calculator on there for this very reason. Also replacing the stock battery is almost always a nice increase... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted December 13, 2009 Report Share Posted December 13, 2009 I think you should just get a more powerful amp at 2ohms since it would be less stressful on your electrical system, but that's just me. Why? He said theyre D4, you cant get a 2 ohm load. You can get 1 or 4. If they were D2 you could get .5 or 2 for the pair. So...If his subs are D4 he should look at an amp that is 1 ohm. I learned the hard way when i bought my subs. I bought 2 D2s, thinking i would run them both off diff amps, then got amps that werent 1 ohm stable. Ended up running them both off a 2 ohm stable amp that put out more power. Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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