77-AUDIO Posted December 20, 2009 Report Posted December 20, 2009 I installed 2 yellow tops last night and the car already had a cap so I just ran the batteries in parallel with the factory battery and the amp smoked. heres how its wired factory battery to cap to amp. then factory battery to 1st yellow to 2nd yellow top. should I have run the amp off the last battery or should I have removed the cap. or both. I dont like caps but he had it in there because he only had one battery at the time. PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
enemyofsilence Posted December 20, 2009 Report Posted December 20, 2009 you should have done both. it should go factory to 1st yellow top to 2nd yellow top to your amp. Team Bass-Hz
77-AUDIO Posted December 20, 2009 Author Report Posted December 20, 2009 you should have done both. it should go factory to 1st yellow top to 2nd yellow top to your amp. Thanks. But I do have a question! Why is that so I can have a better understanding???? PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
LunatikGixxer Posted December 20, 2009 Report Posted December 20, 2009 i would of personally ran it like this. Factory to 1st yellowtop, Factory to 2nd yellow top, and just pick a batt for the amp 2002 Dodge durango 4.7L Autopage 2 way remote start alarm system 2 AQ 15 Aluminum coils. 1 AQ2200D (soon to be 2). 8.5 cubes tuned to 38hz. Yellow top under hood. Kinetik 1800 in rear. Big 3. (H/O Alt Soon to come) Kicker ZX200.4 Kicker 6.5 doors (blown) RF 6.5 comp set (soon to come) 1 run of Stinger 1/0 guage (soon to be 3) All of the above is all gone Currently own a 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6 No audio components.
Soulman07 Posted December 20, 2009 Report Posted December 20, 2009 You ran two separate runs of wire? So one run from factory battery to cap to amp.. An then another set in parallel to the two batteries? Was there a bridge wire between the cap and batteries? What kind of amp was this? Caps aren't needed much in my opinion when it comes to adding additional batteries. If you are wiring them in parallel with one + and one - for the run to the rear batteries you have done it the correct way. If not you can always ground the battery in the rear of the car though. What gauge wire and how much power were we trying to pull through though? 1993 Chevrolet SWB Pickup Viper 791XV Primer Stage 5/8 Static Drop Kinetik HC1800 Big 3 Knu Flex 0 Team Tex Flex
dmanson Posted December 20, 2009 Report Posted December 20, 2009 on top of all the other questions ........... did you have a fuse after the first battery and before the rear batteries? 2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s 1-DC 5K amp (1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR) 3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative. (2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear) Audiocontrol 3.1. DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module
steven Posted December 21, 2009 Report Posted December 21, 2009 on top of all the other questions ........... did you have a fuse after the first battery and before the rear batteries? Yes
77-AUDIO Posted December 21, 2009 Author Report Posted December 21, 2009 Yes I think that question was for me. And thinks for answering it wrong, Steven! And not yet. I really want to at a fuse between all batteries but at least he has one on the amp. I was really aggervated at this install and there is really no room for anything extra. 4^3+ box, 3 bateries in rear, amp bracket and unflexable wire. budget build. and I have used almost all of my own personal wire on several cars. I guess I need to order some wire and start charging for it. I am going to try and convence him to remove the spare tire since you cant get to it anyways and put the batts in there. PPI dbl dinDC Level 31.77cubes net tuned to 33htz.DC audio 2.0kCT Pro Audio 8" in front, 6.5 in rear
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