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No sound from hifonics 2610d


650rcode

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Last night i was installing my new 2610d in the mustang to run my 2cvxs at 4 ohms, i hooked up everything just the way the old kenwood amp was hooked up but i get no sound. The top blue HIFONICS letters light up and so does the green power light on the side but i get no sound. i checked the speaker connections and everthing is fine. i did notice though that by turning the gain all the way up and the remote knob i got very low sound.

i read the manual and it says to use a y-splitter from one side of the rcas if you don't have a mono signal, but the rca's are coming out of the sub output on the back of my alpine. has anyone had this problem with an amp. could it just be a defective amp or am i not wiring it correctly?

3d7304fe.jpg

2003 Mach 1 Build

HU: Alpine CDA-9857

Sub: Fi Bl 4"VC fully loaded

Sub Amp: RF 1500-1bdcp

Highs Amp: Kicker KX650.4

Highs: Polk Audio db 6.5 comps

Epicenter

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Last night i was installing my new 2610d in the mustang to run my 2cvxs at 4 ohms, i hooked up everything just the way the old kenwood amp was hooked up but i get no sound. The top blue HIFONICS letters light up and so does the green power light on the side but i get no sound. i checked the speaker connections and everthing is fine. i did notice though that by turning the gain all the way up and the remote knob i got very low sound.

i read the manual and it says to use a y-splitter from one side of the rcas if you don't have a mono signal, but the rca's are coming out of the sub output on the back of my alpine. has anyone had this problem with an amp. could it just be a defective amp or am i not wiring it correctly?

If your previous amp work with current connect wires right before the install, I assuming its a defective amp. To make sure I would put the old amp in and run troubleshooting....

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Make sure u have the RCA's in the right input, and make sure the master switch is not on slave.

i love this sh--t man 1966 Ford Fairlane Pioneer prs 80, the big three, with 2 big azz agm batts, dual 270/200 amp alts , two 8'' mids and tweets in the kick( PPI phantom 600.2). two 10''s and tweets in the doors, two 10'' mids and tweets in the rear decK ( Lanar opti 500x2). 2 C2 Audio Threatcon 4 12s on a Crunch GP3000d. No crossover .

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UPDATE: Got some sound out of it today.

I have the woofers wired at 4 ohms because they are 600rms 10" subs and the amp puts out 850 at 4 ohms which is more than the old kenwood 1000 watt was putting out and i had that one wired at 1ohm, lol.

i plugged everything in again and i had a y-splitter for the rca's and i was getting more sound out of the woofers. the problem is that i had the bass knob turned all the way up, the bass boost on the amp all the way up and the gain at about 75%. this was the only way i was getting decent sound but didn't seem as loud as with the other amp. the box was out of the car so that may be why.

I just think that i should be getting way more output from this amp than my old one. if i tuned the bass knob half way up there was barely any movement of the subs.

I was thinking about checking the voltages tomorrow , what should be the reading that i should see for the rca's and the speaker outputs.

here's a pic of how i wired the subs someone correct me if i'm wrong, thanks

the bottom black circles represent the white dots on the terminals

SUBS.jpg

3d7304fe.jpg

2003 Mach 1 Build

HU: Alpine CDA-9857

Sub: Fi Bl 4"VC fully loaded

Sub Amp: RF 1500-1bdcp

Highs Amp: Kicker KX650.4

Highs: Polk Audio db 6.5 comps

Epicenter

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here's a pic of how i wired the subs someone correct me if i'm wrong, thanks

the bottom black circles represent the white dots on the terminals

SUBS.jpg

Hello everyone,

Well I am new here, but have been reading for quite a while now however, & figured I would sign up so I could post occasionally too (I love car audio, as well as home audio!). I enjoy reading here & will try to help when I can!

650rcode,

If you have your CVX’s wired exactly as you have it in your diagram, they are wired wrong. I am assuming you have the CVX’s with the Dual 4-Ohm coils, since your trying to achieve a 4-Ohm final load.

The WHITE dots show the Positive & Negative terminals of VOICE COIL-(1) of the subwoofer.

The PLAIN Red & Black terminals on the subwoofer represent VOICE COIL-(2).

Your wiring shows you feeding Voice Coil-1 (the white dots) with the amplifier & you have a shorting wire on Voice Coil-2, so voice coil-2 is not doing anything on either sub.

The way you have it wired your only using one voice coil in each speaker & are presenting the amp with a 2-Ohm load.

I will attach a picture / quick diagram of how to wire two Dual 4-Ohm CVX’s to achieve a 4-Ohm load at the 2610D amplifier, if a 4-Ohm load is what you are after. The Kicker CVX manual (which can be downloaded from Kicker’s website) show you how to properly wire the voice coils with the WHITE dots & no dots). It is always a good idea to check the manufactures site for a manual if you are unsure about something.

I have a pair of CVR12’s that I got in 2006 which use the same voice coil connections with the white dots, & when I got them they were suppose to be blown, I was going to try to repair them (I like working on stuff) & when I got them they worked perfect, I guess the place that tested them got confuses with the white dots & no dots or simply did not test them, either way the coils are kind of confusing on them.

Hifonics states the amp is 1-Ohm stable, so you could always go that route as well, as mentioned in the above post. Just parallel all four coils to give the amp a 1-Ohm load.

Ok, was just trying to help out a little! And I hope it helps!

Wiring-2-Kicker-CVX-to-Hifonics-261.jpg

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