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No sound from hifonics 2610d


650rcode

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let me tell you EXACTLY what is wrong. *clears throat*

take that bass knob "remote" you have and disconnect it from the amp. then turn the gain down to 1/3 of a turn or so. then turn off the bass boost entirely.

now, make sure your rcas are fully inserted into the amp (and the head unit for that matter)

and now try it again. the bass remote that came with mine killed the amp's output considerably. my sundown sae-1200 put out more power than it did with that remote installed. the solution is to get rid of that useless bass knob!

8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee :DClick to see J00bles' Youtube Channel

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  • 2 weeks later...

hmmmmm, same problem. just for shits and giggles, tried hooking up my bxi2610D's and got the same results. First amp, barely any sound. had to turn off mids and highs just to hear the subs...thought "damn the man, bad amp". so tried the other and same thing. kinda retarded. after shelling out $700 for these 2 amps, would expect immediate satisfaction. The rca's worked fine with the little 400 watt kenwood that made me worry about my back window blowing out...lol I ran them at 4 ohms with all 4 subs, nothing, then 1 ohm all 4 subs, nothing, then 1 sub 4 ohms, nothing, then 1 sub 1 ohm, nothing. well the tiniest bump, but my deck could do better by itself...WTF! did this with both BXI2610D's. cant both be bad amps. whats goin on? and yes, both were set to master, not slave. and even tried with out bass knob....

06 2500hd, 6.0L, 4l80e, 4wd, (muah work truck)

7" BDS HC lift kit

(5) 37x13.5R18 Toyo Open Country M/Ts

(5) 18x10 Moto Metal MO962

tablet in lieu of deck

blue tooth interconnect to soundstream eq (for volume control and bass control)

4 Alpine type r 10's

6 cubes net, 80sqin's port, tuned to 33hz

2 brutus brx5000.5's

2 pairs 3" polk audio for a pillars

4 pairs polk audio 6.5 comps

1 pair 8" polk audio for mids

2 xspower d3400 batteries

.....learning alot from meade and his circle of some of the baddest installers ive seen- thanks guys, for not being so cocky and posting the way it should be done!

P.S. Thanks Steve....for the demo!!!! loud as fauk!

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shit idk what you guys have having my friend gots teh 2610d and that shit is pounding the hell out of the audioques taht he has

and you may not have the right rcs hooked up right on your amp dude taht was happing to me ummm have you raised up teh input voltage i think if you have it a 9v no sound comes out but when you raise it more thats when the sounds comes out.

That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

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Hello everyone,

Well I am new here, but have been reading for quite a while now however, & figured I would sign up so I could post occasionally too (I love car audio, as well as home audio!). I enjoy reading here & will try to help when I can!

650rcode,

If you have your CVX’s wired exactly as you have it in your diagram, they are wired wrong. I am assuming you have the CVX’s with the Dual 4-Ohm coils, since your trying to achieve a 4-Ohm final load.

The WHITE dots show the Positive & Negative terminals of VOICE COIL-(1) of the subwoofer.

The PLAIN Red & Black terminals on the subwoofer represent VOICE COIL-(2).

Your wiring shows you feeding Voice Coil-1 (the white dots) with the amplifier & you have a shorting wire on Voice Coil-2, so voice coil-2 is not doing anything on either sub.

The way you have it wired your only using one voice coil in each speaker & are presenting the amp with a 2-Ohm load.

I will attach a picture / quick diagram of how to wire two Dual 4-Ohm CVX’s to achieve a 4-Ohm load at the 2610D amplifier, if a 4-Ohm load is what you are after. The Kicker CVX manual (which can be downloaded from Kicker’s website) show you how to properly wire the voice coils with the WHITE dots & no dots). It is always a good idea to check the manufactures site for a manual if you are unsure about something.

I have a pair of CVR12’s that I got in 2006 which use the same voice coil connections with the white dots, & when I got them they were suppose to be blown, I was going to try to repair them (I like working on stuff) & when I got them they worked perfect, I guess the place that tested them got confuses with the white dots & no dots or simply did not test them, either way the coils are kind of confusing on them.

Hifonics states the amp is 1-Ohm stable, so you could always go that route as well, as mentioned in the above post. Just parallel all four coils to give the amp a 1-Ohm load.

Ok, was just trying to help out a little! And I hope it helps!

i got the same thought when seeing the picture provided, and you explained it dead on! kudos!

wizv.jpg

200a alt. by Excessive Amperage

hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear

1/0awg + big 3

SAZ 3000D

HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm

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I dont know much about this Hifonics amp, but if I had the same problem with my Orion HCCA 5000d. I had 2 knobs for bass filtering, there was a high pass and a low pass knob, but it is only a subwoofer amp.. This made no sense to me at first, but then I realized the settings were not in respect to Full-Range sound but only the Low pass filter. I solved it by setting my High Pass button at a very low setting and setting my low-pass at about 115hz. At first it was awkward, but it works great!... Like I said before I don't know if it helps much but I thought it might help..

Subs are like titties, They need to come in pairs because ones and threes are just wrong, and larger amounts will always draw a crowd, we all have our favorite sizes, but the bigger ones are more fun to watch move!

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