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JL W7 13


Ben G.

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Ive heard many w7s.. They are nice don't get me wrong, but if you cant give it the right amount it doesn't sound good at all.. or too much and you have a nice expensive paper weight :)

If you want good sq, gets loud, and looks good.... AA Havoc is the way to go...and won't break the bank.

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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i've heard both the w7 and Fi Q. in a pure SQ build, with ideal boxes for each sub, the JL does take the quality award (sound and appearances). But in a practical application, such as daily driving, the Q can take more abuse, get louder, and in the right box sound just as good. plus it costs a ton less. so IMO Fi Q over a w7.

Current Setup:

Factory HU with LOC

mids/highs-Insignia components

Sub- E8 in bass tube

Amp- sae-1200d

Show Setup:

HU-Sony MEX-1HD (brings massive respect for sony)

fronts - Infinity Kappa perfect comps

rears- Infinity Kappa coax

mid/high amp - Autotek 5600

Subs - 2 RE SE 15's

Sub Amps - 2xSAE-1200D

Box - 5cubes sealed

Wire- Lots of Knu 1/0

SECOND SKIN

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Got to keep in mind that I will probally have to get a larger amp for the havocs? IDK? i do not know any specs on these subs. A web address would be sweet!..lol I just love the look of the W7..I still am taking every opinion of your guys in to consideration and thought. I really would like more feedback from more people.

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i think all the these people are getting to man is that for the money there is WAY better and its mostly on the box you put your subs in. most people stand behind aa dc fi dd and aq theres more there but those are just some of the brands that most people like to stay with jl is just a NAME BRAND and your paying for that logo more than anything. correct me if im wrong but jl isnt the best its more of a beginner level stuff the w7 look nice but theres no way im going to pay 500+ for a 3 OHM sub there is no amp out there that is made for 3 OHMs and be sides you CANNOT get a recone for them so if you blow one you got your self a nice paper weight.

thats my .02 lol

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i think all the these people are getting to man is that for the money there is WAY better and its mostly on the box you put your subs in. most people stand behind aa dc fi dd and aq theres more there but those are just some of the brands that most people like to stay with jl is just a NAME BRAND and your paying for that logo more than anything. correct me if im wrong but jl isnt the best its more of a beginner level stuff the w7 look nice but theres no way im going to pay 500+ for a 3 OHM sub there is no amp out there that is made for 3 OHMs and be sides you CANNOT get a recone for them so if you blow one you got your self a nice paper weight.

thats my .02 lol

ha im glad someone else has the paper weight expression :)

Vehicle: 2008 Chevy Cobalt LT

Exterior: Tinted tails, Lowered with Eibach Springs, Black Housing Headlights, 6000k HIDs

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate P400-4 & T10001bd

Batteries: Kinetik HC1400

Electrical: Big 3 Stock Alt

Enclosure: 4 ft³ @ 33Hz 75sq.in. of port (18.75sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Pioneer AVH-P4100DVD w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Boston Acoustics SL60 (front), Boston Acoustic SX95 (rear)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: 1/0g KnuKonceptz Kollosus, 4g MobileSpec

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Ha lol Ya i see what your saying, but then again I watched a kid buy an Fi ssd 18" and he built a real nice box to specs on the sub, and it did not inpress me at all...Idk like everyone i want to be real happy with my system, I do not want to blow my money and not be pleased. DD, Fi, are some expensive subs too. I have looked into the AQ subs and i like what i see. Just powering them is an issue for me rite now. By summer i might have more money. Can i ask why people are soooo against JL? like if you dont like how they sound just say ya imo they don't sound as good as the competion. Not saying you guys are bad, there are some real a**holes out there that just bash the crap out of anything JL... I'm still wondering about the ascendant audio prices?

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Personally, I don't think the W7 13 sounds all that amazing. Better can definitely be had for the money. I am not saying the W7 line all sounds bad, I am just not a fan of what the W7 13 has to offer.

And to add to your last post... An SSD/Q can't really be considered an SPL woofer. Not to mention, it takes a few setups to find a box that really sounds good and has good output.

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i think all the these people are getting to man is that for the money there is WAY better and its mostly on the box you put your subs in. most people stand behind aa dc fi dd and aq theres more there but those are just some of the brands that most people like to stay with jl is just a NAME BRAND and your paying for that logo more than anything. correct me if im wrong but jl isnt the best its more of a beginner level stuff the w7 look nice but theres no way im going to pay 500+ for a 3 OHM sub there is no amp out there that is made for 3 OHMs and be sides you CANNOT get a recone for them so if you blow one you got your self a nice paper weight.

thats my .02 lol

Okay any amp can run at 3ohms as long as 3ohm is greater than or equal to its lowest rated impedance. I have ran a 10w7 off a P500.2 at ohms bridged....it was rated for a minimum of 4ohm bridged....never went into protect, never any problems with anything (supply voltage was key)

Also w7s can be reconed...you send JL your woofer and they recone it.... they won't send you a recone out however.

w7s are nice woofers however...for the price not so much.... If you can get one for about 1/2 to 1/3 of retail then do it...

8w7 retails for $~575 I would pay $150-250

10w7 retails for $800 I would pay $250-300

12w7 retails for $900 I would pay $300-400

13w7 retails for $1100 I would pay $400-450

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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i think all the these people are getting to man is that for the money there is WAY better and its mostly on the box you put your subs in. most people stand behind aa dc fi dd and aq theres more there but those are just some of the brands that most people like to stay with jl is just a NAME BRAND and your paying for that logo more than anything. correct me if im wrong but jl isnt the best its more of a beginner level stuff the w7 look nice but theres no way im going to pay 500+ for a 3 OHM sub there is no amp out there that is made for 3 OHMs and be sides you CANNOT get a recone for them so if you blow one you got your self a nice paper weight.

thats my .02 lol

You're not paying for the name brand, your paying for the fact that tons of R&D went into designing the sub and the fact that each sub is built with specialized equipment. There is lots of amps out there that will work for 3 ohms but the main reason they went with that impedance is so you can match a JL amp up with the sub. And another thing is you shouldn't be worrying about recones if you are using the sub properly.

the Q can take more abuse, get louder, and in the right box sound just as good. plus it costs a ton less. so IMO Fi Q over a w7.

In a pure SQ setup you shouldn't be worrying about which sub is louder.

/waits for JL haters flame storm

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Stetsom 2k

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