dROKkr Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 okay so hopefully someone looks at this again. i think i hit my last snag after this i should be good. the diagram i am looking at lists that i need a #775 relay for my domelight supervision and my trunk release... found them on directed wholesale. but would any local type of stores carry them? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dROKkr Posted February 24, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 its all good..the resistance learning bypasses work just as well would you mind elaborating a bit? im curious too how this works... i like learning the various ways to do things. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bustedassblazer Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 would you mind elaborating a bit? im curious too how this works...i like learning the various ways to do things. not at all..dont know if this will work but here ya go http://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document5443-627.pdf passlock 1 doesnt need a relay to delay the resistance during ignition...just put it inline between the r code wire and the reference 1996 S-10 Blazer Kenwood DNX-6140 (2)Kinetik HC2000 (2)US Amps MD3Dv2 US Amps MD42v2 (4)Hertz HCX-165 (front doors) (2)Hertz HL-70 (dash) (2)Hertz HT-25 (dash) (2)Hertz SX-380D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 not at all..dont know if this will work but here ya gohttp://directechs.com/tech_docs/Document5443-627.pdf passlock 1 doesnt need a relay to delay the resistance during ignition...just put it inline between the r code wire and the reference That link isn't going to work for him unless he has a directechs account(actually it doesn't even work for me and i can't find that file anywhere in their tech docs). As for just putting the resistor in, doesn't that throw a security light or does it even let the car start at all? as the resistance should only be read during crank(hint why you are taping into the bulb check wire to activate during crank). And if you put the resister between r-code wire and your reference ground that is going to fuck up the resistance it reads when the car is being started with the key. Are you confused with a VATS system perhaps? You're trying to teach some bad habits to people who have little experience installing remote starts and interfacing with factory sercurity systems... Personally I wouldn't attempt just putting a resistor in like stated above. -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted February 24, 2010 Report Share Posted February 24, 2010 okay so hopefully someone looks at this again. i think i hit my last snag after this i should be good.the diagram i am looking at lists that i need a #775 relay for my domelight supervision and my trunk release... found them on directed wholesale. but would any local type of stores carry them? Any autoparts store should have bosch style relays. -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bustedassblazer Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 That link isn't going to work for him unless he has a directechs account(actually it doesn't even work for me and i can't find that file anywhere in their tech docs). As for just putting the resistor in, doesn't that throw a security light or does it even let the car start at all? as the resistance should only be read during crank(hint why you are taping into the bulb check wire to activate during crank). And if you put the resister between r-code wire and your reference ground that is going to fuck up the resistance it reads when the car is being started with the key.Are you confused with a VATS system perhaps? You're trying to teach some bad habits to people who have little experience installing remote starts and interfacing with factory sercurity systems... Personally I wouldn't attempt just putting a resistor in like stated above. if you arent comfortable bypassing v.a.t.s. or passlock systems the oldschool way then stick to what you know...but i'll be damn if you try to tell someone on the forum that these are BAD HABITS..thats just fukking ignorant on your part..if you dont know anything about it then just keep your comments to yourself 1996 S-10 Blazer Kenwood DNX-6140 (2)Kinetik HC2000 (2)US Amps MD3Dv2 US Amps MD42v2 (4)Hertz HCX-165 (front doors) (2)Hertz HL-70 (dash) (2)Hertz HT-25 (dash) (2)Hertz SX-380D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dROKkr Posted February 25, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 haha. alright yeh im gonna pick up two tomorrow morning. and guys chill out. haha. i wouldnt try something like that regardless unless i had some experience under my belt. sounds a little tricky to me. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 if you arent comfortable bypassing v.a.t.s. or passlock systems the oldschool way then stick to what you know...but i'll be damn if you try to tell someone on the forum that these are BAD HABITS..thats just fukking ignorant on your part..if you dont know anything about it then just keep your comments to yourself Serious? yes they are bad habits to fucking wire in a resistor only on a passlock system. How about you do it the fucking correct way if you are going to do it so it doesn't throw a damn security light or come back with warranty issues? bypassing passlock 1 the "old school way" is not putting in one fucking resistor and that is it. When there is a correct way to do something and you don't do it that way. I would say that is a bad habit. Not trying to be a prick but I don't tell people half ass ways to install remote starts. I still think you are confusing passlock 1 with vats because I have never heard of someone wiring in a resistor only for passlock 1 and it working correctly -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bustedassblazer Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 QUOTE (bustedassblazer @ Feb 24 2010, 10:46 PM) if you arent comfortable bypassing v.a.t.s. or passlock systems the oldschool way then stick to what you know...but i'll be damn if you try to tell someone on the forum that these are BAD HABITS..thats just fukking ignorant on your part..if you dont know anything about it then just keep your comments to yourself Serious? yes they are bad habits to fucking wire in a resistor only on a passlock system. How about you do it the fucking correct way if you are going to do it so it doesn't throw a damn security light or come back with warranty issues? bypassing passlock 1 the "old school way" is not putting in one fucking resistor and that is it. When there is a correct way to do something and you don't do it that way. I would say that is a bad habit. Not trying to be a prick but I don't tell people half ass ways to install remote starts. I still think you are confusing passlock 1 with vats because I have never heard of someone wiring in a resistor only for passlock 1 and it working correctly man before this shit gets waaaaay stupid....read back on the original post i made about it being a resistor and a relay...ill explain it in further since im on the chopping block here....cut and read the ignition cylinder side of the resistance wire DURING CRANK(make sure the vehicle start wire is cut or the car is in any gear BUT park or neutral)..read it a few times just to insure youve got a solid reading....now the grab a relay...the ignition side if that wire is gonna find its way to pin 87a..the BCM side will go to pin 30...now make a jumper wire with your correct value resistor inline to tie pin 87 to the ground reference wire...bring in and ignition source to pin 86...and your (-) status wire from the remote start to pin 85...VOILA..passlock bypassed and i will still hold my ground on the resistor only on early to mid 90 gm cars and trucks...if you just put a resistor in line with the (after you read the resistance during crank) ignition side of the r-code wire and the ground reference..it works..no lights no problems....thats how my 96 blazer had been for years....NO ISSUES...and man those are deff the CORRECT old school method of bypassing these systems 1996 S-10 Blazer Kenwood DNX-6140 (2)Kinetik HC2000 (2)US Amps MD3Dv2 US Amps MD42v2 (4)Hertz HCX-165 (front doors) (2)Hertz HL-70 (dash) (2)Hertz HT-25 (dash) (2)Hertz SX-380D Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Shyne151 Posted February 25, 2010 Report Share Posted February 25, 2010 man before this shit gets waaaaay stupid....read back on the original post i made about it being a resistor and a relay...ill explain it in further since im on the chopping block here....cut and read the ignition cylinder side of the resistance wire DURING CRANK(make sure the vehicle start wire is cut or the car is in any gear BUT park or neutral)..read it a few times just to insure youve got a solid reading....now the grab a relay...the ignition side if that wire is gonna find its way to pin 87a..the BCM side will go to pin 30...now make a jumper wire with your correct value resistor inline to tie pin 87 to the ground reference wire...bring in and ignition source to pin 86...and your (-) status wire from the remote start to pin 85...VOILA..passlock bypassed and i will still hold my ground on the resistor only on early to mid 90 gm cars and trucks...if you just put a resistor in line with the (after you read the resistance during crank) ignition side of the r-code wire and the ground reference..it works..no lights no problems....thats how my 96 blazer had been for years....NO ISSUES...and man those are deff the CORRECT old school method of bypassing these systems Nowhere in ANY of your posts did you put anything about using a relay. All you kept saying is "just use a resistor"... And don't try pulling that "old school" bull shit on me like i'm some n00b or something. In January I probably wired up 20-30relays the "old school" way to bypass passlock 1 and 2 because DEI ran out of PLJX and shipped us 200some xk09s with untested PLXR firmware that either drained car batteries or threw out the wrong r-code. And still everytime I've ever wired up a passlock 1 bypass useing a resistor I've always used two relays... one for bulb check and one passlock wires. Here is directed's passlock 1 instructions on wiring up a passlock 1 system the "old school" way: http://www.joelhoward.net/1047.pdf The method you even described in that post is for a VATS system not a passlock 1 system... And how is it working in your blazer when blazers came with no immobilizer until 98? and your's is a 96? -Installer for Duke's Car Stereo 2000 Pontiac Grand Prix - Ported Eaton M90 S/C, 3.5" pulley, XS Power Headers, 1.9 Rockers, FWI, Poly Motor Mounts, Custom Tune. RF T1000-1bdCP and T400-4 Boston Acoustics SPG 555 Kenwood eXcelon 995 RF Punch 6.5" components and MB Quart Premium 6x9"s Powermaster Alternator, YellowTop D34, Vmax CT1000 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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