some questions

[chrispy]

ok so my amps fuses have been blowing alot lately. i got sick of it on the way home and stopped at ultimate electronics to talk to the installer since i dont know alot about car audio. so i show him my amp and he says my phase needs to be changed from 180 degrees to 0 degrees. he said 180 degrees is only for subs with the front facing in the box. so i do that and my fuses stopped blowing.

but i noticed that my bass seems softer than when it was at 180. does this sound like a possible reason to what have caused my fuses to blow constantly?

also ive noticed when im idling and turn my bass up, my rpms go up and down every time the bass hits(only moves about 500 rpms though) and also when im just sitting there after about a minute my subs seem to start getting quieter and quieter until its about 50% of what it normally is. and when this happen it also seems that my subs hit a bass note and then it fades in and out like boooOOOoooOOOOoooOOOm instead of BOOOOOOM if that makes any sense. but as soon as i start driving around it gets louder.

can any1 give me some input? thanks.

[MrSkippyJ]

ok so my amps fuses have been blowing alot lately. i got sick of it on the way home and stopped at ultimate electronics to talk to the installer since i dont know alot about car audio. so i show him my amp and he says my phase needs to be changed from 180 degrees to 0 degrees. he said 180 degrees is only for subs with the front facing in the box. so i do that and my fuses stopped blowing.

but i noticed that my bass seems softer than when it was at 180. does this sound like a possible reason to what have caused my fuses to blow constantly?

also ive noticed when im idling and turn my bass up, my rpms go up and down every time the bass hits(only moves about 500 rpms though) and also when im just sitting there after about a minute my subs seem to start getting quieter and quieter until its about 50% of what it normally is. and when this happen it also seems that my subs hit a bass note and then it fades in and out like boooOOOoooOOOOoooOOOm instead of BOOOOOOM if that makes any sense. but as soon as i start driving around it gets louder.

can any1 give me some input? thanks.

I am not sure how a phase switch would cause fuses to stop blowing. If the subs were all in phase with each other there won't much (if any) difference in the sound when you flip that switch.

The rest sounds like a voltage problem to me. Your alternator sounds like it is having keeping up with demand at lower RPMs and the car is increasing RPMs to make up for it. That could explain the variation in the sound as well. Hook a voltage meter up and see what your voltage is doing while playing and at idle.

Edited February 24, 2010 by shkibbybop

[rubbernutz1]

and the blowing fuse part could be that you're pushing the amp to hard. do you have the ohms lowered to less than the amp can be stable at? that can surely pop a fuse pretty quick.

[chrispy]

and the blowing fuse part could be that you're pushing the amp to hard. do you have the ohms lowered to less than the amp can be stable at? that can surely pop a fuse pretty quick.

i think my installer said 2 ohms

and here is what my amp says

500W peak output @ 4 ohms

900W peak output @ 2 ohms

Adjustable 50-200Hz 24dB/oct low-pass crossover

Bass boost function delivers rich low-end sound

Built-in passthrough

Line-level and speaker-level inputs

Built-in cooling fans for enhanced heat dissipation and improved amp performance

[treossi]

get a dmm and check the impedance at the amp, sad to say MOST shops don't know dick about wiring

[chrispy]

get a dmm and check the impedance at the amp, sad to say MOST shops don't know dick about wiring

im not gona get one because i dont know how to do all of that i just need someone to check it that knows what they are doing and for cheap but idk where to find someone that knows how to do it. i mean i could go to ultimate electronics or bestbuy but they will probably mess something up

[kogwanted]

i think you should get a bigger amp as is if you running 2 diamonds off a kenwood 500 it may not be good for the subs just saying a little off topic but its something you should know if you want a cheap amp that puts out alot of power for the price its the audioque 1200d just saying

[chrispy]

i think you should get a bigger amp as is if you running 2 diamonds off a kenwood 500 it may not be good for the subs just saying a little off topic but its something you should know if you want a cheap amp that puts out alot of power for the price its the audioque 1200d just saying

why wouldnt it be good for the subs?..

and i cant buy a new amp at least for a while because i have no money and dont need a bigger one

[kogwanted]

like when my subs werent getting enough idk why but my amp would kick out but then when i bought a new amp BAM! never happened again and that amp is 250 shipped cheap good power and dude you could get so much out of those diamonds

[MrSkippyJ]

why wouldnt it be good for the subs?..

and i cant buy a new amp at least for a while because i have no money and dont need a bigger one

You are sending 500w to your subs and they are rated for 400w RMS each (800w total). Ideally you would want 800w RMS so you are under powering them a bit. This won't hurt them as long as you don't try to compensate by cranking your gains up. If you do that you start sending a clipped signal to your subs which can ruin subs even when underpowered.

Edited February 24, 2010 by shkibbybop