Need Help with Orion D5000 Cutting Off For a Sec At Higher Volume!

[zerocarpileup]

ok so for now im running 1 15"2Orion Hcca off of 1 Orion D5000 At 1 ohm with 1 Kinetik hc2400 and a Iraggi 300a amputator. Big three and all wiring done in 0g. my hu is a kenwood DDX712.

So when i crank the volume up at about 17 with the infrasonic on the amp seems to go into protection but NOT. It does not "officially" go into protection. No protection light or nothing. it seems to just cut off sound to the sub for a second until i lower the volume. Also i hear a relay clicking inside the amp. Now when i turn the infrasonic off. im able to play the volume abit more but now cuts off at 22. Whats going on? i know should be able to crank this thing up way more. im pretty sure i have the hpf and lpf set about right and the intelli-q it tuned to port frequency. gain is all the way up but kept controlled with knob. What could be the cause of this

?

For those of you who dont know much about Orions Infrasonic or intelli-q ive attached a link to the manual in pdf.

Infrasonic Switch - when On cuts off extremely low bass frequencies (below the range of human hearing, that speakers cannot effectively reproduce). The high pass filter is engaged when the infrasonic switch is On. This improves efficiency of the amplifier's power supply, improves sound reproductive performance, and reduces chances of damaging the subwoofers.

INTELLi Q Control - continuously adjusts the "Q" boost of the high-pass crossover from 0 to 10dB of boost. Low-Pass Frequency Control - adjusts the upper crossover frequency of the amplifier.

http://www.alaskasoundcenter.com/alaska_files/musica/directed-orion-west_coast-precision_power/orion/orion_hcca-d1200-d5000_amps.pdf

[matt402]

ok so for now im running 1 15"2Orion Hcca off of 1 Orion D5000 At 1 ohm with 1 Kinetik hc2400 and a Iraggi 300a amputator. Big three and all wiring done in 0g. my hu is a kenwood DDX712.

So when i crank the volume up at about 17 with the infrasonic on the amp seems to go into protection but NOT. It does not "officially" go into protection. No protection light or nothing. it seems to just cut off sound to the sub for a second until i lower the volume. Also i hear a relay clicking inside the amp. Now when i turn the infrasonic off. im able to play the volume abit more but now cuts off at 22. Whats going on? i know should be able to crank this thing up way more. im pretty sure i have the hpf and lpf set about right and the intelli-q it tuned to port frequency. gain is all the way up but kept controlled with knob. What could be the cause of this

?

For those of you who dont know much about Orions Infrasonic or intelli-q ive attached a link to the manual in pdf.

Infrasonic Switch - when On cuts off extremely low bass frequencies (below the range of human hearing, that speakers cannot effectively reproduce). The high pass filter is engaged when the infrasonic switch is On. This improves efficiency of the amplifier's power supply, improves sound reproductive performance, and reduces chances of damaging the subwoofers.

INTELLi Q Control - continuously adjusts the "Q" boost of the high-pass crossover from 0 to 10dB of boost. Low-Pass Frequency Control - adjusts the upper crossover frequency of the amplifier.

http://www.alaskasoundcenter.com/alaska_files/musica/directed-orion-west_coast-precision_power/orion/orion_hcca-d1200-d5000_amps.pdf

theres ur problem ^^^.

u need moar battery!... (& not kinetik... )

[zerocarpileup]

theres ur problem ^^^.

u need moar battery!... (& not kinetik... )

Really? Cuz im getting no dipps in the meeter. you dont think my 300A amputator iraggi and that HC2400 is enough for 1 15" and 1 D5000? Cuz i plan to run 2 15" and 2 D5000 off of 2 Kinetiks? Well can u help explain whats happening with the clicking relay with no protection mode?

[Boon]

Check your ground. And check the voltage at the amplifier's terminals when you're bumping. Sounds like a voltage problem to me but you also have the electrical to keep it going fairly well...

[zerocarpileup]

Check your ground. And check the voltage at the amplifier's terminals when you're bumping. Sounds like a voltage problem to me but you also have the electrical to keep it going fairly well...

what should i be looking for when i check the voltage? its[++ --]And right now i have a piece of Memphis 0g bolted onto one of the big seat bolts then split into 2pcs of Memphis 4g with a distro into the amp. as you know 2 12v batts and 2 negs. So, Is that not the best spot for the ground? Although my wiring is going to be all redone when i run the second sub, i would like to at least get it right for now.

[n8ball2013]

you are looking at 290 amp current draw at full tilt. you need more power. Turn your gains down too unless you don't like your woofer.

[zerocarpileup]

you are looking at 290 amp current draw at full tilt. you need more power. Turn your gains down too unless you don't like your woofer.

damn. welll i forgot to mention the kinetik is in the back and i have a yellow top up front.

[cthedinger]

damn. welll i forgot to mention the kinetik is in the back and i have a yellow top up front.

still not enough battery power

your system is only as good as your electrical is

[n8ball2013]

damn. welll i forgot to mention the kinetik is in the back and i have a yellow top up front.

look at my sig I know a thing or two about them.

[zerocarpileup]

still not enough battery power

your system is only as good as your electrical is

ok i understand, but shouldn't i be seeing some significant dips in power for it to be cutting out like that? im good at the front rear and alt. what gives?