boomin Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 ive already got the box for the AQ, and the kicker box is a generic kicker one (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-KICKER-DS12L7-L7-12-Car-Subwoofers-Subs-BOX_W0QQitemZ390079742880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item5ad29083a0) and for amps, both are new and same price im looking at eD 9.1 (1200 RMS) and kicker zx1000.1 (birthsheets usually rate about 1200 RMS though) Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Termin8r Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 ive already got the box for the AQ, and the kicker box is a generic kicker one (http://cgi.ebay.com/NEW-2-KICKER-DS12L7-L7-12-Car-Subwoofers-Subs-BOX_W0QQitemZ390079742880QQcmdZViewItemQQptZCar_Subwoofers_Enclosures?hash=item5ad29083a0) and for amps, both are new and same price im looking at eD 9.1 (1200 RMS) and kicker zx1000.1 (birthsheets usually rate about 1200 RMS though) Prefab boxes and being loud, normally do not go together. My formula for building a loud system is as follows... Decide what you going after, SPL, SQ or a little of both. Choose subwoofer(s) that best fit your above choice(compare there TS specs to determine compatibility) Determine which enclosure would best meet your end goal. For spl, ported, 4th, 6th, 8th order bp or for all around sql performance a t line box works well. Your vehicle is part of the enclosure, build it(your enclosure) as such. Build the right box for your car and the bass will come no matter what sub you use. Normally tiny enclosures will produce tiny results. Keep panel resonance down to a minimum to achieve a better tl score. My last spl build I used 500lbs. of concrete and 1000lbs. of mdf, 2x4's, screws, glue etc. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) My enclosure is not a cheap prefab, its a custom built one by a reputable shop around my area. to find out my enclosures cu. feet. i simply multiply L*W*H? being that i paid so much to have this box custom made, i would really prefer to keep it....it fits perfect in my trunk and is super solid and well built (ported, 3/4 MDF) Edited April 10, 2010 by boomin Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Termin8r Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 (edited) My enclosure is not a cheap prefab, its a custom built one by a reputable shop around my area. to find out my enclosures cu. feet. i simply multiply L*W*H? being that i paid so much to have this box custom made, i would really prefer to keep it....it fits perfect in my trunk and is super solid and well built (ported, 3/4 MDF) Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help. Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)? Edited April 10, 2010 by Termin8r Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Termin8r Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help. Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)? Any pics of your setup? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Any pics of your setup? You also have to factor in the thickness of the wood. Boomin, get us some pictures, and take some measurements. Box dimensions, wood thickness, double baffled? Port opening height/width/depth. We can figure out tuning and give you a little better of an idea as to how anything will sound in it. Quote 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bassl0va Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 how much louder will the L7's be than the AQ? <---In identical boxes, theoretically 0.6db is my box sufficient? u think it will be loud in my car, or should i get another setup elsewhere?<---depends on what you call loud? It's also near impossible to give you a db number. and my budget for overall upgrade is like $500, so if i buy the AQ for 200 i have ~$300 for an amp. how can i use that other battery? Run 4 gauge to it from stock battery (keep new one in trunk) than from there run 2 more power wires to sub/speaker amps?<---put buss bars on the second battery(fused of course) and run the front battery to the 2nd battery, then from the second battery to the amp. ^I have answered some up here Quote My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Ok, not knocking you or anything just here to help. Yes, multiply L*W*H in inches and divide by 1728(inches in one foot cubed) to get how many cubic feet your enclosure is. This will not account for bracing or speaker volume. Which way do your speakers face(forward, back, up etc)? It's cool...good formula im going to go measure in a min, but im pretty sure its about 2 cubic feet ima double check. heres a pic currently....in the box is a 12" sub for reference. Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Twistedchild420 Posted April 10, 2010 Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 Don't debate this any longer...get the AQ brah Quote My POS Bass machine-2003 Hyundai Santa Fe on some shitty 22'sBed Liner Paint Job-Pioneer AVH 3200DVD4 DAD BD series 15's in a 4th Order (Bassheads ENT Design)4 Arc Audio XDI2000.1 for the woofers6 Cadence CVL68MBX 6.5's-Cadence CVL88MBX 8's-6 Cadence XT20 Supertweeters2 Arc Audio KS300.4's for mids and tweets1 Arc Audio ALD 10v Line DriverAll Audiotechnix Power wire1 DC Power 270XP High Output Alternator1 XS Power D3400 up front....6 XS Power D3100's in the rearAir Lift 1000 Bags in rear to help with suspensionIf your still reading this GFY....... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
boomin Posted April 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted April 10, 2010 ^I have answered some up here thanks for answering those, really helpful. So now im thinking the kickers are out of the question.... half a dB louder for $300 more and less SQ...no way im doing that haha i understand its impossible to give a dB number, I just want to know if i will be expecting 3x louder than my alpine setup, or a slightly louder boost (like 2 dB) Now on another forum, I've been told to just upgrade the front battery (underhood) to a group 34 high quality battery (yellow top, kinetik, ect) and leave it at that....will what you suggested have the same affect (2 batteries, one underhood one in trunk), or would i be better off with 1 "legit" battery under the hood? Quote F/s: 2 custom made boxes, for 1 12" and 2 12" hit me up I'll let em go cheap Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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