memphisbasshead Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 Ok i wanted to make it to were my dc audio level 3 15 could get a little bit louder and take more power. but i wanted to do it without upgrading to a dc audio level 4.what can i do to pretty much make my level 3 into a level 4 sub without buying a whole new sub. Quote My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 more efficient box, more power. pretty much the only 2 ways to really get "louder" (there are exceptions) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 more efficient box, more power. pretty much the only 2 ways to really get "louder" (there are exceptions) What he said... Look around for some of the higher power builds on here using 10"s or 12"s. In most cases when adding power, they compensate with a smaller box to keep the cone under control. Honestly, if you aren't exactly sure as t what you're doing, you would probably be better off just buying a level 4. A lot of times you can pick up a barely used one off of here for the cheap. Quote 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisbasshead Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 i was thinking about building a box that is 4 cu ft after port displacement tuned to 35 hz and then i wanted to put dc level 4 soft parts on the level 3 so i could be able to put about 1200 watts rms to the sub. but i would like to know were i can get level 4 soft parts for the sub. does all of this sound like a good idea for me to be able to put 1200 watts rms to the sub. Quote My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 i was thinking about building a box that is 4 cu ft after port displacement tuned to 35 hz and then i wanted to put dc level 4 soft parts on the level 3 so i could be able to put about 1200 watts rms to the sub. but i would like to know were i can get level 4 soft parts for the sub. does all of this sound like a good idea for me to be able to put 1200 watts rms to the sub. why? just get a level 4 if you are so concerned about power. from DC... by the way email rusty on how big the box should be. i asked him whether 1.5 or 2cuft per level 3 12 would work better. he said if im not burping it stick with the regular ported size (1.5) and dont go with the SPL ported size (2cuft) Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
memphisbasshead Posted June 27, 2010 Author Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 why? just get a level 4 if you are so concerned about power. from DC... by the way email rusty on how big the box should be. i asked him whether 1.5 or 2cuft per level 3 12 would work better. he said if im not burping it stick with the regular ported size (1.5) and dont go with the SPL ported size (2cuft) why did you tell me what size a 12 dc lvl 3 box should be when i was talking about getting a dc audio lvl 4 15?? O.o Quote My Car Audio Setup: Sub: 1 RE Audio HC 15 Dual 2 ohm(soon to get a psi recone) Daily Sub Box: 1.62 cubes net with 2 dayton audio 8 inch passive radiators tuned to 34.35 hz, 141.9 @ 48 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Competition Sub Box: 3.10 cubic ft. net tuned to 50.58 hz with 2 6 inch aeroports, 147.9 @ 62 hz sealed on the dash with termlab Amp: Powerbass ASA 1000.1 Dx(eventually gonna get a planet audio bb2400.1) Big 3: Phoenix Gold 1/0 Gauge Amp Wire: Knukoncepts 1/0 gauge Alternator: Stock 90 amp Battery Under the hood: Autocraft Gold Top Battery Battery In Back: None for now but I am looking for one so pm me if you have one for sale HU: Pioneer DEH-2900MP Front/Rear Amp: Hifonics Txi-4408 4 channel amp Front Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6.5 coaxial Rear Deck Speakers: Orion Cobalt 6x9 coaxial Home Audio Setup: Speakers:2 Cerwin Vega D-3's (10" Woofer,5 1/4" mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter) 2 Cerwin Vega D-5's (12" Directed Audio Xtreme 124SX Subwoofer,5 1/4 mid-range,1" Bullet Dome Tweeter)Kenwood center channel and rears. Amp: 2 Kenwood KM-105's from 1985 Receiver: JVC RX-6008V 5.1 Channel Receiver Pre-Amp: Kenwood KC-993 Sub: still looking for one thinking about getting a 18 or 15 for my sub to hit the lows if anyone has one pm me I do free box designs if anyone is interested Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Destram Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 He told you because you have a Level 3, and you said you didn't want to buy a Level 4. The additional airspace required from a 12 to 15 isn't a huge difference..not enough for you to make a 4 cu ft box. Quote 2006 BMW 325i My feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/77301-official-destram-feedback/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
dwright27 Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 3 cubes - 3.5 cubes. Quote 2006 F-150 4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver XS Power 4 DC 3.5kw Team DC Team S.P.L. Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0 DC Audio Dealer American Bass Dealer XS Power Dealer Audio Technix Dealer Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kranny Posted June 27, 2010 Report Share Posted June 27, 2010 why did you tell me what size a 12 dc lvl 3 box should be when i was talking about getting a dc audio lvl 4 15?? O.o you said you want to make a box that is 4cuft...which is the SPL Ported spec that is shown on DC's site. as i said before i emailed rusty asking whether i should use the SPL Ported specs or the regular ol' Ported specs. he said use the regular ported specs unless you plan on burping the woofer, then you use SPL ported specs. just sayin' Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
corona_jeff Posted June 29, 2010 Report Share Posted June 29, 2010 I would go with 3-3.5cu Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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