Jump to content
Sonic Electronix

Recommended Posts

Posted

Okay, so I am just a teenager who is soon to buy a lot of audio equipment however I am not going to pay $75 for every amp I need Installed which I can do myself but my question is, is if I supply the details for what i am going to buy is there anyone who can tell me how to wire my set up because im looking at having 3 amps and a capacitor but i don't know how to hook up multiple amps because 2 are identical and i am dedicating to sub-woofers and the other is a four channel that i am going to wire like an 8 channel so i can hook up all my mids and highs but i have no clue how to wire the capacitor or more then 1 amp. any help is much appreciated!!!!

Posted

Ditch the cap. Its pointless unless you already have little to no voltage drop.

Read: BCAE1.com

When using very large capacitors (1/2 farad or more) in your car, the capacitor partially discharges into the amplifier's power supply when the voltage from the alternator or battery starts to fall. Keep in mind that the discharge is only for a fraction of a second. The capacitor can not act like a battery. It only serves to fill in what would otherwise be very small dips in the supply voltage.

You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive.

DC Level 4 M2 12 D2

Car Audio Bargain 1600.1

Eclipse CD3200

~2 cubes @ 34 hz.

Stinger Roadkill Expert

Posted

First off, You're better off getting a second battery instead of a cap. Capacitors will just be an extra drain on your charging system.

Too many projects, too little time...

Posted

just do the big three and get a second battery

Teamflexissueslong.jpg

06 chrysler 300C Hemi

one mmatts dreadnaut 15 powered by a planet audio vx 2200d

fosgate p200 running planet audio 8" midbass drivers and super compression tweeters

stock battery and a stinger spv44

Irragi 300 amp alternator

big 3 1/0

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/55075-system-in-my-300c/page__view__findpost__p__763656__fromsearch__1

Posted

In answer to your question, someone here will be able to help you with your wiring. I personally have two sub amps and a 4channel amp that is powering 6 speakers, 4 for the rear channel and 2 for the front.

take baby steps, u cant do it all at once unless u have a roll of 100's big enough to choke a donkey

1998 Chevy Venture "Swagger Wagon"

Kenwood Excelon KDC-X994 Headunit

3 15" Alpine Type R's in seperate T-Lines

1 RF T1500-1bd for 2 of the 15s

1 RF P1000-1bd for the single 15

3 sets of Hifonics Zeus ZXi6.5C Components( 1 more set to come for Front stage)

1 Hifonics HFi100.4 4-channel amp

Stock alt for now (DC HO SPL 400A when funds come in,currently working on buying this)

Stock battery and one Optima Redtop for now (looking at XS batteries)

3 15" Alpine Type R's (aka Swagger Wagon Build 1.0)

Swagger Wagon Build 2.0

Youtube Videos

Posted

lots of people here can help you as long as you listen to it. most kids on here dont actually take the advice given so dont be like that lol.

list everything you are looking at getting. brands and models. then we can tell you how to wire it or even warn you if you are about to get something that wont work.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted

well what i have so far is as follows :

2- 15” ALPHA 600 SERIES SUBWOOFER

75 oz. Double Stack Magnet

Rated at 800 Watts RMS

1600 watts max (approximatly)

92dB Efficiency

Frequency Response of 30Hz to 500Hz

Dual 4 ohm 2-1/2” Voice Coils

8-Gauge Lug-Lock Input Terminals

1- Fanatic P Series 6.5" 2-way component system

Mica-filled poly woofer cone

3/4" mylar dome tweeter (wedge, flush, or surface mount)

In-line high-pass crossover (6300 Hz, 18 dB/octave) — keeps low frequencies from the tweeter.

Frequency response: 55 - 20kHz

Power range: 8 - 50 watts RMS

100 watts max (approximatly)

Sensitivity: 89.05dB

Top mount depth: 2-1/2"

1- Pioneer DEH-P6800MP head unit

CD player with built-in MOSFET50 amplifier (22 watts RMS/50 peak x 4 channels)

plays CDs, CD-Rs, and CD-RWs (including your MP3- and WMA-loaded discs)

Supertuner IIID (18 FM/6 AM presets)

Easy EQ (5 preset curves and a 7-band graphic EQ)

three sets of preamp outputs

subwoofer controls with two-way filter for improved low-end performance

CD frequency response: 5-20,000 Hz

CD signal-to-noise ratio: 94 dB

FM sensitivity: 8 dBf

these are all the items i currently have and the items i was looking at buying are as follows:

1- Speaker Size 6-1/2"

Design 2-way Component System

Tweeter Design Dome

Tweeter Composition PEI (Polyetherimide)

Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber

Peak Power Handling 120 watts

RMS Power Handling 60 watts

Sensitivity 89 dB

Frequency Response 60 - 22,000 Hz

Top Mount Depth 2-1/8"

Cutout Dimensions 6-1/2"

1- Rockford Frosgate P1692S

Speaker Size 6" x 9"

Design 2-way Component System

Tweeter Design Dome

Tweeter Composition Aluminum

Woofer Composition Mica Injected Polypropylene (MIPP)

Woofer Surround Polyurethane

Peak Power Handling 120 watts

RMS Power Handling 60 watts

Sensitivity 88 dB

Frequency Response 60 - 22000 Hz

Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms

Top Mount Depth 3"

Cutout Dimensions 6 x 8-3/4

2- SPL DK-2000D

Amplifier Specifications

Number of Channels 1 - Mono

RMS Power (4 ohms) 800 watts x 1 channel

RMS Power (2 ohms) 1300 watts x 1 channel

RMS Power (1 ohm) 1600 watts x 1 channel

Bridged RMS Power Not Bridgeable

Total RMS Power Output 1600 watts

Peak Power Output 2000 watts

Total Peak Power Output N/A

Maximum Input Gauge Size 1/0

Minimum Impedance Unbridged 1 ohms

Minimum Impedance Bridged Not Bridgeable ohms

THD at Rated RMS Power .50%

Speaker Level Inputs No

Preamp Outputs N/A

Built-in Crossover N/A

High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A

Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 150 Hz

Subsonic Filter 15 - 40 Hz

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 100 dB

Bass Boost 0 - 18 dB

Fuse Rating 30A x 3

1-SPL GRLA 1200/4

Amplifier Class AB

Number of Channels 4

RMS Power (4 ohms) 100 watts x 4 channels

RMS Power (2 ohms) 125 watts x 4 channels

RMS Power (1 ohm) N/A

Bridged RMS Power 250 watts x 2 channels

Total RMS Power Output 500 watts

Peak Power Output 300 watts x 4 channels

Total Peak Power Output 1200 watts

Maximum Input Gauge Size 4

Minimum Impedance Unbridged 2 ohms

Minimum Impedance Bridged 4 ohms

THD at Rated RMS Power 0.02%

Speaker Level Inputs No

Preamp Outputs 1 pair

Built-in Crossover Low-pass (LP)

High-pass (HP)

Full (AP)

High-Pass Crossover Frequency 50 - 500 Hz

Low-Pass Crossover Frequency 30 - 250 Hz

Subsonic Filter 15 - 50 Hz

Signal-to-Noise Ratio 97 dB

Bass Boost 0 - 12 dB

Fuse Rating 50A x 1

1- Rockford Fosgate P1T-S

Tweeter Size 1"

Tweeter Design Dome

Tweeter Composition PEI (Polyetherimide)

Flush Mount Yes

Surface Mount Yes

Angled Mount Yes

Peak Power Handling 120 watts

RMS Power Handling 60 watts

Sensitivity 90 dB

Frequency Response 3,500 - 20,000 Hz

High-Pass Crossover Frequency N/A

Impedance (per voice coil) 4 ohms

Top Mount Depth 1/2"

Bottom-mount depth N/A

Cutout Dimensions 1-3/4

this is all i have on my list atm but i dont know what other items i will need to make this all work (or if it even will or if its any good at all) other then like a wire kit with 1/0 guage so any help will be greatly aprecitated and if you have any sugestions on what would make my system better i am all ears! remember though im 17 im not rich lol =] thx

Posted

1- Speaker Size 6-1/2"

Design 2-way Component System

Tweeter Design Dome

Tweeter Composition PEI (Polyetherimide)

Woofer Surround Butyl Rubber

Peak Power Handling 120 watts

RMS Power Handling 60 watts

Sensitivity 89 dB

Frequency Response 60 - 22,000 Hz

Top Mount Depth 2-1/8"

Cutout Dimensions 6-1/2"

what brand is this?

so the 2way component sets will have a passive crossover so you arnt setting up a 4channel amp like an 8channel. one set of wires will go from each channel to the crossover. from the crossover to the mids and tweeters.

for 3 amps you will want a relay. the relay is activated by the HU remote turn on. the relay has a power and ground coming from the battery then one power wire that you will split to each amp. this is just to turn the amps on and off.

for actual power and ground on the amps you either get a second battery in the trunk and run wires from that to each amp or you get a distribution block.

several brands you have are not great ones. if you would like to list the types of items you want to buy and your budget we can help with that part.

If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood.

Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/

Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build

Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.

Posted

well as i said i am a teen however i am planing on saving up and after around 2 months i should have about 2 grand however this is flexible this will be going in a 2000 honda accord ex sedan and i have the 6 1/2" Rockford Fosgate component system and the PSW615's i am up for any suggestions on what to do to get the loudest and clearest overall sound audio i possibly can so if you can suggest better amps speakers batteries etc that would be great and i was also curious if i should upgrade my alternator from the stock 105 amp to a 180 which from what i see is gonna cost $220 and what kind of batteries should i get. i mean should i change the stock original battery to a kinetic or what???? im just really in need of some guidance and i am easily available by text if you would be willing to tell me what you believe i should do that way num is 254-458-3462 i just need to get guidance from some one who knows what there talking about so that i can get the best system for my budget

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   0 Members, 0 Anonymous, 1482 Guests (See full list)

    • There are no registered users currently online
×
×
  • Create New...