Need help with my first build! Wire questions!

[cubs_fan0718]

Or you can run that 0ga from front to back then throw a distribution block on it and reduce it that way.

[TheAustinHenry]

Yeah im running all KNU and im building a 6000w+ System.

Order this stuff IMO

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4

[Hunter Spivey]

Yeah im running all KNU and im building a 6000w+ System.

Order this stuff IMO

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4

Is that all the wire I need for my system? Besides getting some 0 gauge for the big 3?

Random question here, but would it be okay to wire my sundown 1200d to 1 ohm to the Fi Q 15 or is that a no go? The sundown website says it's 1 ohm stable but I just want to make sure.

[Hunter Spivey]

Yeah im running all KNU and im building a 6000w+ System.

Order this stuff IMO

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4

Is that all the wire I need for my system? Besides getting some 0 gauge for the big 3?

Random question here, but would it be okay to wire my sundown 1200d to 1 ohm to the Fi Q 15 or is that a no go? The sundown website says it's 1 ohm stable but I just want to make sure.

[Hunter Spivey]

Yeah im running all KNU and im building a 6000w+ System.

Order this stuff IMO

http://www.knukonceptz.com/productDetail.cfm?prodID=KFX-AK4

Is that all the wire I need for my system? Besides getting some 0 gauge for the big 3?

Random question here, but would it be okay to wire my sundown 1200d to 1 ohm to the Fi Q 15 or is that a no go? The sundown website says it's 1 ohm stable but I just want to make sure.

[Alex K]

The 0-4 reducer just lets more power flow to your amp.

Yes im pretty sure that saz1200 is 1 ohm stable - most of their amps are

im pretty sure that's all you'll need, other than some 0 gauge for the big 3, and maybe some extra ring terminals. Get some speaker wire too, and some better rcas. Just get more than you think you need now in 1 order, cause nothings more frustrating than when you need that extra wire that you dont have and wish you would have ordered last time.

[UnderLoK]

If there is any chance you will want to upgrade in the future go with 1/0 and be done with it. Measure from the front batt to where you want to mount the amp, measure from the alternator to the battery (make sure to check the size of the post on the alternator and plan accordingly if the rings hole will be too big), and add 5ft for incidentals and or accidents. Take that number and order 1/0 in the color of your choice along with 5 ring terminals to match. I say 5 and not 3 (you only need 3) because accidents happen.

Measure from the front batt to the frame and the frame to the alternator bracket and from where the amp will sit to the rear grounding point. Order that much plus a couple feet for accidents. You will also need 6 ring terminals to match. Again plan for mistakes.

Are you using a factory HU? If so you also need an RCA converter (it takes speaker wire from a stock speaker and turns it into a source for RCA) and a bass knob (you don't HAVE to have one, but it's a wise move). You also need enough RCA to go from the knob to the rear amp or if you skip that enough rca to go from the converter to the rear amp.

You also need to measure from where your remote will originate (under the dash normally) to where the rear amp is going to go and get some blue 12-16g (size doesn't matter just anything you can find in that range cheap) wire that length.

Are you building a box? If so you will need speaker wire as well. You want enough to be able to remove the sub from the box without pulling on the wires. Assume 2ft per coil and then from the box to the amp.

As a general rule just over estimate everything when it comes to wire you can cut (power/speaker). It's better to have a little extra than to realize you completely screwed up and have to spend 2-3x more locally.

You will also need some bolts for those grounds unless you are able to find existing ones to use. DO NOT use sheet metal screws, DO NOT half ass it no matter how tempting

List:

1/0 Power wire

1/0 Ground wire

1/0 Inline fuse under the hood (fuse should be just over the amps MAX draw which you can find in the docs)

12-16g blue remote wire

12g speaker wire

RCA

Edited July 13, 2010 by UnderLoK

[Alex K]

If there is any chance you will want to upgrade in the future go with 1/0 and be done with it. Measure from the front batt to where you want to mount the amp, measure from the alternator to the battery (make sure to check the size of the post on the alternator and plan accordingly if the rings hole will be too big), and add 5ft for incidentals and or accidents. Take that number and order 1/0 in the color of your choice along with 5 ring terminals to match. I say 5 and not 3 (you only need 3) because accidents happen.

Measure from the front batt to the frame and the frame to the alternator bracket and from where the amp will sit to the rear grounding point. Order that much plus a couple feet for accidents. You will also need 6 ring terminals to match. Again plan for mistakes.

Are you using a factory HU? If so you also need an RCA converter (it takes speaker wire from a stock speaker and turns it into a source for RCA) and a bass knob (you don't HAVE to have one, but it's a wise move). You also need enough RCA to go from the knob to the rear amp or if you skip that enough rca to go from the converter to the rear amp.

You also need to measure from where your remote will originate (under the dash normally) to where the rear amp is going to go and get some blue 12-16g (size doesn't matter just anything you can find in that range cheap) wire that length.

Are you building a box? If so you will need speaker wire as well. You want enough to be able to remove the sub from the box without pulling on the wires. Assume 2ft per coil and then from the box to the amp.

As a general rule just over estimate everything when it comes to wire you can cut (power/speaker). It's better to have a little extra than to realize you completely screwed up and have to spend 2-3x more locally.

You will also need some bolts for those grounds unless you are able to find existing ones to use. DO NOT use sheet metal screws, DO NOT half ass it no matter how tempting

List:

1/0 Power wire

1/0 Ground wire

1/0 Inline fuse under the hood (fuse should be just over the amps MAX draw which you can find in the docs)

12-16g blue remote wire

12g speaker wire

RCA

x2, but you don't necessarily need diff power and ground wires. Just make sure you know what goes where. Like if you bought just 1 50 ft spool of 0 gauge, you'll be fine more than likely.

[BJD3]

1/0 Inline fuse under the hood (fuse should be just over the amps MAX draw which you can find in the docs)

Meaning your total amplifier fuse rating should be slightly lower than your fusing on your run of power wire?

[Alex K]

Meaning your total amplifier fuse rating should be slightly lower than your fusing on your run of power wire?

True, so that way if your amp needs that say 200a, and you're running 200a fuse, you won't blow your fuse.