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Amp gets hot


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I have a class AB Rockford Fosgate Prime R500.1 amp. The speaker terminals are bridged in parallel internally and the 2 subs I have installed with it are dual 4 ohm, so I assume with the terminals bridged internally it presents a 2 ohm load. The amp is good at 2 ohms, and is putting about 200Rms or so to each sub, each sub can handle 500rms and the birth sheet rates the amp at 583RMS at 14.4v. I have not had the chance to see what voltage I am sitting at, but still I can only get about 30 min or less of music play before amp overheats and shuts down, i installed the amp sunday and this has happened twice since then. I have notice there are soem fans you can buy or I can get a computer fan, but I am nto sure how I should ount them to make sure they work when the amp is running and they wont stay on, and give good air flow.

The amp is mounted on the back of my back seat, the back seat folds down, right now I am playing it with seat fodled down and back window down to try and keep it cool. The boxed is sealed and takes up majority of back trunk, there is roughly 3 inches or so from top of box to the top of trunk. The back of my car is actually wrecked a bit, and the trumnk has a gap in it, so that should allow plenty of air flow in as well.

Any ideas what fans or such would be best and where I can find them?

To be sure about my wiring of the subs, I used the12volt.com wiring diagragm to make sure the subs present a 4ohm load to the amp, because previously the subs were wired at 2ohms and being wired at 2 ohms and then going to a terminal that is bridged in parallel, i think it was giving the amp a 1 ohm load

2_4ohm_dvc_4ohm.gif

the subs sounded awesome, but amp would go into protect mode after minute or so of play, so I quickly rewired them.

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what gauge wiring do you have running to the amp, and if its not hot enough to cook an egg on, your fine

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What type of car is it in?

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i know final ohm load is less than 4, both speakers are 4 ohm load but speaker terminals are bridged parallel internally, meaning it is dropping the ohm load of the speakers if two of them are wired (or so i understand it to be that way)

car is 1999 oldsmobile alero

ground is good, i previously had a class d mono in it and it was about 3 times as powerful and it never got hot, ground is directly on the frame, paint has been grinded off

i set the gain by doing the test where you turn settings down and turn volume up a bit and then slowly turn gain up until some distortion, then i turned the gain down 2 steps form this and since then i have turned gain down another 2 steps, originally gain went to 8-9 before distortion, i turned it to 6-7 and right now its between 4-5

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Could be faulty equipment. Thats my guess.

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i know final ohm load is less than 4, both speakers are 4 ohm load but speaker terminals are bridged parallel internally, meaning it is dropping the ohm load of the speakers if two of them are wired (or so i understand it to be that way)

car is 1999 oldsmobile alero

ground is good, i previously had a class d mono in it and it was about 3 times as powerful and it never got hot, ground is directly on the frame, paint has been grinded off

i set the gain by doing the test where you turn settings down and turn volume up a bit and then slowly turn gain up until some distortion, then i turned the gain down 2 steps form this and since then i have turned gain down another 2 steps, originally gain went to 8-9 before distortion, i turned it to 6-7 and right now its between 4-5

It is a mono-block amplifier, there is no bridging going on in the amp. The subs are wired up in parallel so you have a final load of 2 ohms. You should use test tones and a DMM (or o-scope if you have one) to set your gains, not your ears.

 

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it says directly on the amp, that the speaker terminals are wired internally in parallel

it doesnt have more than 1 channel, but it has 2 inputs which are wired together internally to work as one

that is why i thought that it would drop an ohm load when two speakers are wired to it

i can get a picture of the part on the amp directly under the speaker terminals where it states what i just said if you do not believe me

i know its mono block, but the 2 pos and 2 neg inputs that it has are wired together internally

i only mentioned that because i had a mono block previously that was setup up the same way, only it did not have the speaker terminals wired in parallel internally

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