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Well, I think one of the biggest things is replacing old wire. I have literally at least 5 different types of 1/0, because whenever I go into a shop to buy some they always have a different style in stock.

I'd like to make it all match and look nice. I was thinking 5-6 runs of + and 3-4 of -, but I'm not sure about the -. Depends on how many I can get out of it.

tejcurrent

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The rain sucked today. Our comp was rained out. They said we'll finish it early at the May 10th show. I hope to see you there with everything going.

Thanks jstuntndagsxr.

Yeah, if everything is up and running I'll do my best to make it. The only reason I can think of not coming is if the alts don't arrive in time.

tejcurrent

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Iraggi just sent me an email- the alts are shipping today. I paypaled Chris over at MLA audio for my module, and that should be in right around the same time (save me splicing wires). Maybe everything will work out as long as all the equipment works good :D

tejcurrent

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Well, all of the basic wiring is in. Short of wiring the alternators in, the only thing I'll really have to do is run a few more runs of wire. Here are a few pics I just took of the back.

You can see there is plenty of mis-matching colors because no shop ever seems to carry the same stuff (especially when I'm just a few feet short of hooking things up), but that will be fixed when i get the spools :) I will have to run a few wires just a little different so it's symmetrical, but it runs for now and it's clean enough not to be worried.

The amp rack with plenty of room for either an eclipse XA4000, or XA2000 to run some 8" mids, haven't decided yet which to run. I'll probably be vinyling this to match instead of that ugly carpet.

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Also trim panels on either side of the box will be made and vinyled to hide most of that wire, just need to get the time/energy to do it :P

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And of course I got my SMD soldering lessons, got to love never worrying about at crimp on terminal messing up :)

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Definitely better looking pics when I get the rolls of wire, and especially teh sexiness when I get the alts.

tejcurrent

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I want to start by saying AWESOME work bro!!! I love it when someone is so passionate about this stuff and is not afraid to try something soo extreme in a daily driver. You have just about got everything down, my suggestions are strictly my thoughts on electrical charging systems and I recommend doing research before making any decisions on options i present to you, that being said:

batteries are merely a storage device, they do not up voltage or produce anything of value. In order to maintain voltage and amperage you must produce enough current at a high enough voltage to charge them. A stock alternator cannot effectively charge a battery bank like yours even under normal load conditions, let alone the extreme draw you place on it. Steve is testing a new product from MLA that can up your voltage output on your stock alternator and you can use it in conjunction with another (using a dual alternator bracket) high output alternator of your choice. I like the guys from db electric they make a good product that wont break the bank (about $250 for a HO alt for your truck with an under drive pulley already installed). I would also look into changing your stock alternator pulley with a smaller diameter one so you will have a higher charge rate at engine idle. Total cost if you do it all yourself will be under $500 and you will net around 400 amps at 15.6 volts or around $700 if you change out the stock alt with another HO for a total of 500 amps at 15.6 volts (more than enough for you if you mainly keep it on moderate volumes with the occasional DB burp)

I have ruined several batteries thinking that the alt is keeping up with the battery bank's needs, I highly recommend purchasing a good battery maintainer that you can plug in to the truck while you are at home to help keep the batteries fresh and topped off (I plug mine in every time i pull into the garage). The batteryminder I use is the model# 12248 and it works very well for a $100 investment.

You are off to an amazing start with this build, and definitely have way more patients and determination than most people to have stuck with it and done such a great job. Again I am not bashing your install at all, it is among the best i have seen from a DIY'er. Along with that Dom over at Irraggi, the guys at Powermaster and Ohio Generator have great products, my recommendation for alternators is strictly a cost per amp comparison.

Hope this helps out, keep on posting those pics and vids so we can all share in your accomplishments

sully, I sent the guys at db electrical an email asking them about an alt for my car. Now even if their alt is rated for 12 volts, the missing link still should bring it up to a 15.1 right?

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

BIG things to come.........

Missing link is the shite!!!

SMDMafiaEagleScorpio1.jpg

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I want to start by saying AWESOME work bro!!! I love it when someone is so passionate about this stuff and is not afraid to try something soo extreme in a daily driver. You have just about got everything down, my suggestions are strictly my thoughts on electrical charging systems and I recommend doing research before making any decisions on options i present to you, that being said:

batteries are merely a storage device, they do not up voltage or produce anything of value. In order to maintain voltage and amperage you must produce enough current at a high enough voltage to charge them. A stock alternator cannot effectively charge a battery bank like yours even under normal load conditions, let alone the extreme draw you place on it. Steve is testing a new product from MLA that can up your voltage output on your stock alternator and you can use it in conjunction with another (using a dual alternator bracket) high output alternator of your choice. I like the guys from db electric they make a good product that wont break the bank (about $250 for a HO alt for your truck with an under drive pulley already installed). I would also look into changing your stock alternator pulley with a smaller diameter one so you will have a higher charge rate at engine idle. Total cost if you do it all yourself will be under $500 and you will net around 400 amps at 15.6 volts or around $700 if you change out the stock alt with another HO for a total of 500 amps at 15.6 volts (more than enough for you if you mainly keep it on moderate volumes with the occasional DB burp)

I have ruined several batteries thinking that the alt is keeping up with the battery bank's needs, I highly recommend purchasing a good battery maintainer that you can plug in to the truck while you are at home to help keep the batteries fresh and topped off (I plug mine in every time i pull into the garage). The batteryminder I use is the model# 12248 and it works very well for a $100 investment.

You are off to an amazing start with this build, and definitely have way more patients and determination than most people to have stuck with it and done such a great job. Again I am not bashing your install at all, it is among the best i have seen from a DIY'er. Along with that Dom over at Irraggi, the guys at Powermaster and Ohio Generator have great products, my recommendation for alternators is strictly a cost per amp comparison.

Hope this helps out, keep on posting those pics and vids so we can all share in your accomplishments

sully, please send me a pm about the question I asked. I don't want to post questions to you in someone else's thread. Thanks man!!

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

BIG things to come.........

Missing link is the shite!!!

SMDMafiaEagleScorpio1.jpg

bannerfans_8aed9634.png

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sorry about asking someone else a question in your thread man. And by the way, incredible build!!!! You have alot of talent. I don't know how long you have been in mobile audio, but you do great work!! Oh yeah, I had a question. The pins coming out above the batteries from the box are for the speaker connections, right? I know it is only a small length of wire, but if you have unequal distances of wire to the different voice coils, granted very small distance, but wont the voice coils not "fire" at exactly the same moment? I was told that with especially very high power applications, always run equadistant wiring due to the risk of hurting the speaker from the two voice coils not "firing" at the exact time. Is this true? Just a question, and trying to know all I can for my build. And what is the proper word I can use rather that "firing". I would rather use the proper term. Thanks man,

Joseph

Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it.

Team built from here on out!!!!

BIG things to come.........

Missing link is the shite!!!

SMDMafiaEagleScorpio1.jpg

bannerfans_8aed9634.png

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