skinny16 Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 I just installed an Iraggi 190A Alt into my Toyota Camry, and if anything extra runs(Lights, blower, etc.) the voltage will go down to around 12.7-12.9 and stay down there unless I rev it. Wired Big 3, Grounds grinded to bare metal, Kinetik HC1800, etc. This only happens when the RPM's are below 1000 Quote RF T600-4 RF T1500-1BDCP FI BL 15 Iraggi 190A Alternator Big 3 Kinetik HC1800 Kinetik HC2400 Knu Flex 1/0 2 Sets of RF T2 Component 6.5's Own but not installed...yet 1 Set of RF T2 Component 6.5's 1 Set of Qlogic Kickpanels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jeyrapboy Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 Thats because your voltage is naturally lower at idle... Also You factory voltage meter will only display what its reading upfront and unreliable in car audio applications... Are you checking the reading at the back battery. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Loudcivic Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 (edited) that still doesnt sound right. my stock honda alt stays up higher than that will all the lights, heater and wutever else on a idle(like 6-700 rpm). i would be callin them up and seeing wuts going on with it Edited July 28, 2010 by loudREcivic Quote 2015 silverado crew cab nothing atm but soon... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinny16 Posted July 28, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 I have the Kinetik under the hood, thats the only battery in the car at the moment, I have a stinger Volt Meter reading from the Alternator, I haven't clamped it or anything to see what exactly its putting out at Idle. But the new Alternator should be outperforming my stock 70amp one at idle I would think :/ Quote RF T600-4 RF T1500-1BDCP FI BL 15 Iraggi 190A Alternator Big 3 Kinetik HC1800 Kinetik HC2400 Knu Flex 1/0 2 Sets of RF T2 Component 6.5's Own but not installed...yet 1 Set of RF T2 Component 6.5's 1 Set of Qlogic Kickpanels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
finkster Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 sounds like your idle amperage is shit, this happens all too often with aftermarket alts. Quote DAT 4125------>RE XXX comps active Eclipse cd7000 I serve drunks for a living Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted July 28, 2010 Report Share Posted July 28, 2010 (edited) I just installed an Iraggi 190A Alt into my Toyota Camry, and if anything extra runs(Lights, blower, etc.) the voltage will go down to around 12.7-12.9 and stay down there unless I rev it. Wired Big 3, Grounds grinded to bare metal, Kinetik HC1800, etc. This only happens when the RPM's are below 1000 It's more than likely due to the size of your pulley. Measure the crank pulley and then divide the size of the alt pulley into the crank pulley. Say your crank is 5" and your alt pulley is 2.5". This is a 2 to 1 (5/2.5=2) ratio or for every revolution your crank makes (every RPM) your alt makes 2 revolutions and since you don't want your alt going over 20k RPM (at red line) you then take your max RPM (let's say 5000) and multiply it by the alt to crank ratio. In this case it would be 10,000 RPM at the alt meaning that your alt pulley could be as small as half the size used in this example. AGAIN, this is only an example, these numbers are pulled out of thin air and are not representative of your specific engine. The short of it is measure your crank, measure your alt pulley, and write down your idle and max RPM. Those all play a part in the correct pulley sizing for your alt. Edited July 28, 2010 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinny16 Posted July 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 Crank/Pulley Ratio is about 2:1, maybe closer to 3:1, but the redline is 6200rpm and never gets close to that. Wired the sub down to .7 Ohm and goes down to 12.9-13.1 when full tilt, which with about 2400rms watts, i dont think that is too terrible. Still havent got the second kinetik in or 2nd run of 0 Gauge yet Quote RF T600-4 RF T1500-1BDCP FI BL 15 Iraggi 190A Alternator Big 3 Kinetik HC1800 Kinetik HC2400 Knu Flex 1/0 2 Sets of RF T2 Component 6.5's Own but not installed...yet 1 Set of RF T2 Component 6.5's 1 Set of Qlogic Kickpanels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted July 30, 2010 Report Share Posted July 30, 2010 (edited) Crank/Pulley Ratio is about 2:1, maybe closer to 3:1, but the redline is 6200rpm and never gets close to that. Wired the sub down to .7 Ohm and goes down to 12.9-13.1 when full tilt, which with about 2400rms watts, i dont think that is too terrible. Still havent got the second kinetik in or 2nd run of 0 Gauge yet 2:1 is garbage (600RPM at idle means 1200 at the alt which means very few amps), they need to spin as close to 1.8k-2k as you can get it). You need to measure it. At 6200 rpm (don't say never because if you floor it one day and your alt does 25,000 RPM it will blow up) you need a 3-3.2:1 ratio which will give you 1860RPM at idle. Alts vary, but for GM alts you never want to pass 20k at the alternator. Also is your alt grounded directly to the frame? You can also use the strut tower if you need a closer location. Don't ignore the pulley, if it's 2:1 your output amps at idle are going to suck. Edited July 30, 2010 by UnderLoK Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skinny16 Posted August 5, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 2:1 is garbage (600RPM at idle means 1200 at the alt which means very few amps), they need to spin as close to 1.8k-2k as you can get it). You need to measure it. At 6200 rpm (don't say never because if you floor it one day and your alt does 25,000 RPM it will blow up) you need a 3-3.2:1 ratio which will give you 1860RPM at idle. Alts vary, but for GM alts you never want to pass 20k at the alternator. Also is your alt grounded directly to the frame? You can also use the strut tower if you need a closer location. Don't ignore the pulley, if it's 2:1 your output amps at idle are going to suck. I double Checked, the Pulley is approx. 2.25" and the Crank is approx. 5.25", give or take a quarter inch. Putting it at around 2.3:1. I clamped the alternator today and the highest current I got when it was loaded/revved was 159 Amps(Stereo up about 3/4, blower on high, lights on, etc.) I am gonna be adding a second battery to the back and seeing if the voltage drop won't be as bad, since all I have is the 1 HC1800 Quote RF T600-4 RF T1500-1BDCP FI BL 15 Iraggi 190A Alternator Big 3 Kinetik HC1800 Kinetik HC2400 Knu Flex 1/0 2 Sets of RF T2 Component 6.5's Own but not installed...yet 1 Set of RF T2 Component 6.5's 1 Set of Qlogic Kickpanels Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
UnderLoK Posted August 5, 2010 Report Share Posted August 5, 2010 What kind of amp do you have? Also what is the alternator grounded to? You should have battery to frame and alt to frame (2 isolated runs). Quote If at first you do not succeed, you are doing it wrong! -ARSCheck out my walled TBSS build over here4 Fi Team 18s on 2 Cactus K9 DS18 doors on 2 MBQ 1Ks, Vifa pillars on a STL4.500 Pioneer X8500 6 XS Power D7500, 1 3400S Second Skin 2 270a Mechman Alts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.