Slawsen Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Well the thing is, he just bought this one. Spent $260 on it. No warranty? 00' Nissan Xterra Always under construction :] HU: Pioneer DEH3100-UB Mids & Highs: Kicker DS Component Set & Crescendo tweeters Mids & Highs Amp: Rockford 150.2 Subwoofer: 2 DC Audio LV 4 18"s Subwoofer Amp: Hifonics Brutus 2005d you been hanging out with jeff and dustin with that green paint? its yellow so it has to be loud. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
PUNKYOU007 Posted August 10, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 bought it used on Caco...trying to get a response from the seller. Guy claimed the amp was "like new" when we got it had all kinds of cosmetic issues. The guy is being a total dick about it like my boy was not supposed to care that his "like new" amp had wood glue all over it, duct tape residue, silicone, bent mounting feet and the seller had installed a thermostat when he used it so when we got the amp there were two wires coming out of the case. The guy doesn't want to give us any money back. Money was sent paypal but was sent as a gift to avoid fees, so I dont know if we can take recourse thru paypal. see the drama here Doethepaperboy "Bars of Pain" Doethepaperboy "Hero Remix" C. Arson d(-__-)b beer sucks...but i can bring some jose cuervo. Only problem is that it makes me horny and gives me the rams. So unless yall wanna fight and then have some great make up sex i will leave it home. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 You outta luck then if it was a gift. I don't do gift for anyone that I haven't done business with before. SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
wL<3bass Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 db-r will no longer touch amps that don't have a company contract with it seems... Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Where to start... Amp repair is a strange beast. Some amps you can just chop out the visibly burnt bits, put in replacements, fire it up and it will go. No worries, just like when it came from the factory. I would say these are maybe 2-5% of the amps I see. Let's take this poor AP3k as an example. First, why has it failed? The obvious outward sign is the power supply has blown up, so the parameters of the power supply MOSFETs have been exceeded. The important ones here are Voltage and Current. Most power supply FETs are rated to like 40v at the very least so we can almost certainly rule that out. So it's probably over-current that blew them. As skittles roughly alluded to, when one FET in a bank fails, often the rest blow up too because they can't handle the load. It doesn't really matter if they do or not, when one goes you should replace the lot with FETs with matching date codes to avoid batch differences. Now where did the over-current come from? Was the amp just running at too low an impedance? Was there a speaker short that the output section survived but the power section couldn't handle? Is there a short in the rectifiers, a rail cap, a transformer winding, the output muting relay? Or perhaps an output has failed invisibly, presenting a short circuit to the power supply. Perhaps the output drive circuit has failed and was driving the output FETs to almost closed circuit and the power supply FETs couldn't handle the duty cycle? Back to the power supply MOSFETs - they've almost certainly failed short circuit gate-drain at some point which will have almost certainly killed one of the following (or all of them, AP don't really use over-built parts in the power drive, that's partly why they're cheap) - The tiny gate drive resistors, surface mount in this amp, almost certainly burned - The PCB and tracks for the gate drive - The power supply drive transistors - The power supply driver IC In this amp I'm pretttty damn sure the resistors, transistors and IC are all surface mount. If you don't have a hot air rework station, it's not worth trying. Although it is possible to solder something like a 14-pin SM IC without a hot-air rework station, the horrible PCBs in these amps will probably fall apart while you're at it. Hell they probably would with a hot air station. I think this is part of the reason db-r won't work on them. Completely aside from the fact that the last one of these I had a looksee inside of, they had removed the part markings from the ICs. Probably 474 based, but maybe not. Who knows. If you have a scope, I would start by removing every power FET from it then applying power (with a short-circuit protected power supply, not a car) then scoping it for drive. That is, of course, after you check for shorts in everything hanging off the power supply. They don't just blow up... usually. 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.