Best 12k to 15k amp

[Boon]

Oh for sure, it's way preferable to get 1000w by having, say, 125vac @ 8 amps with a ~16 ohm coil instead of 31vac @ 31 amps from a 1 ohm coil.

Then your voltage drop across your tinsel leads is much, much less which means more power to the coil and less heat and burnt tinsels.

I've seen 95vac(rms) on the output of my Stetsoms and that was running them off 12v input. So they're still trying pretty hard to get the voltage up - that still works out around 2200wrms at 4 ohms (the amps run up to 15khz too so you could potentially drive the hell out of any car-audio front stage)

Half the issue is finding output FETs that have high enough Vds (e.g. 200v in the Brazilian amps) while still having massive Ids so you can use minimal parts and keep the footprint down. High Vds(max) = High Rds(on) = low Ids(max)

While I'm still not completely convinced by the Brazilian way of doing it (I think the output FETs in a 10k are switching over 1000wrms each) I do prefer it over the Korean/Chinese technique of 'lets use this 5 year old design and just double all the components'

Admittedly the switching and filtering is still dirty as hell though But full credit to them for trying.

Can't we just go back to the good old days of modulating the 12v that comes from your battery directly

EDIT: I'm told the internal working voltage on a 6000GTi is like 400vdc which is why if you blow them up, even Crown won't work on them. Screw poking around inside that with a scope when it's turned on, a SAZ-3000D kicks you hard enough when you put your finger in the wrong place

[corona_jeff]

DD98hoe, I sent you a PM

[15 lowz]

I would say get the 20q problem solved

[NDMstang65]

Oh for sure, it's way preferable to get 1000w by having, say, 125vac @ 8 amps with a ~16 ohm coil instead of 31vac @ 31 amps from a 1 ohm coil.

Then your voltage drop across your tinsel leads is much, much less which means more power to the coil and less heat and burnt tinsels.

I've seen 95vac(rms) on the output of my Stetsoms and that was running them off 12v input. So they're still trying pretty hard to get the voltage up - that still works out around 2200wrms at 4 ohms (the amps run up to 15khz too so you could potentially drive the hell out of any car-audio front stage)

Half the issue is finding output FETs that have high enough Vds (e.g. 200v in the Brazilian amps) while still having massive Ids so you can use minimal parts and keep the footprint down. High Vds(max) = High Rds(on) = low Ids(max)

While I'm still not completely convinced by the Brazilian way of doing it (I think the output FETs in a 10k are switching over 1000wrms each) I do prefer it over the Korean/Chinese technique of 'lets use this 5 year old design and just double all the components'

Admittedly the switching and filtering is still dirty as hell though But full credit to them for trying.

Can't we just go back to the good old days of modulating the 12v that comes from your battery directly

EDIT: I'm told the internal working voltage on a 6000GTi is like 400vdc which is why if you blow them up, even Crown won't work on them. Screw poking around inside that with a scope when it's turned on, a SAZ-3000D kicks you hard enough when you put your finger in the wrong place

Nothing like modulating a DC motor controller and getting cheap power/sound out of it right?

...i'm glad somebody else sees it instead of being a lemming....

thank you.

[Big Lo]

Good info