wL<3bass Posted August 29, 2010 Report Share Posted August 29, 2010 You'll find out very soon that using an IB mid in a enclosed pod is harder than you think took some fine tuning to get my a-pillars pods to sound the way I wanted... I also realized in a closed pod the size of mine low end extension wasn't really pronounced and on 55hz freq I could actually hear the panel rattle against the metal pillar... Right now my 5.25 mids had to be crossed at 120hz, it helped alot with rock music, especially drums... But I have 6.5" in the doors to help with lower midbass extension (55hz and up). This isn't exactly answering your question, just giving you my experience with low enclosure volume and IB mids... It's gonna take some testing to see what sounds good in your car, with your pods, with your mids... Getting it right the first time isn't always easy. Quote Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4 Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2" Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400 Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube) Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors) Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex My YouTube Videos My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build My "Seamless" Looking Box Build My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer) My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk My feedback/references... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 Normal door speakers are going to suck the balls in a sealed pod on your door. They're designed to run IB or in a loose approximation of that... the TS parameters are all wrong for sealed usually, you'll probably find that they're lacking extremely in midbass. Open the backs up into your door cavity, then make good use of sound deadening. Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
STEvil Posted August 30, 2010 Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 build a horn in your door for your mids Lots of room behind the panel to curl the mouth of the horn into a large opening that aims front/back/top/bottom, like a flat sea shell Quote MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..." Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through. Hammerdown... 1% no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
monkeyleg Posted August 30, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 30, 2010 OK Just making sure I'm not the only one that's thought about doing this. Guess I'll try them sealed and see if I like it. And when I do cut the holes how is the size of the hole determined? I'm sure the smaller the hole the more drastic the sound will appear. For A-pillars using just the volume of the trim piece is good enough? I don't need to play less than 100HZ on the mids. Quote Google it Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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