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Thanks again..

noob question.. Lets say i wanted to flush mount some aeros, which be be Im assuming about a 1/8 notch,, What bit would I use for that. Im not to skilled or knowledgeable on the custom things you can do with routers ( especially in CA ) but would like to learn a bit more..

---You can use a 1/4(standard) or 1/2 ... just gotta do a little adding/subtracting

Or if I had a box fully built but wanted to add another baffle on top of the one I have.. Is it the Flute ( straight bit )?

---Flush mount bit

Obviously the holes would be cut out already in the first baffle, so what bit would I used to A) put an oversized piece of mdf on the existing baffle and then just follow along the box for and exact match, and B) Matching the existing port and sub opening holes

Man I hope that made sense to you guys

Also youll probably want to buy a jasper circle jig. For car audio its one of the best tool accessories for us lol

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My 02 Accord Wall Build

2 Sundown Audio Nightshade V1 18s --- 1 SAZ 3500

Sundown Audio 100.4 --- 4 Sundown Audio Neo-Pro 8s

Sundown Audio 125.2 --- 2 Morel MD-12 Tweeters , 2 Selenium ST-200 Tweeters

DC Power 270xp --- 4 XS Power D1200s | 1 D5100R

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Making a flush mount hole after making your cutout isn't the best option, but it can be done.

What you will need to do is, attach your second baffle and flush cut the 2nd hole to match the 1st

Then you will need to get what is called a rabbeting bit. You will need one that is tall enough to cut in at least the height of your sub basket lip and wide enough to cover the width of the basket lip.

So say your sub basket is 1/2 tall with a surround gasket. You will need a rabbeting bit that will cut 1/2" deep chunk out of the edge. then say the basket lip is 1/2 wide. your bit will need to be at least 1/2 wide in it cut. I would look for one that is closer to 3/4 wide to allow extra room around the basket so you can round in carpet

40690_1407261421291_1225082889_31207510_4744789_n.jpg

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2116

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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Also youll probably want to buy a jasper circle jig. For car audio its one of the best tool accessories for us lol

Got one , but its still in the packaging :) cant wait to use it tho.. Gonna be alot less time consuming that making my own circle jig and so much cleaner than the jigsaw

Edited by comatoastedlush
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Making a flush mount hole after making your cutout isn't the best option, but it can be done.

What you will need to do is, attach your second baffle and flush cut the 2nd hole to match the 1st

Then you will need to get what is called a rabbeting bit. You will need one that is tall enough to cut in at least the height of your sub basket lip and wide enough to cover the width of the basket lip.

So say your sub basket is 1/2 tall with a surround gasket. You will need a rabbeting bit that will cut 1/2" deep chunk out of the edge. then say the basket lip is 1/2 wide. your bit will need to be at least 1/2 wide in it cut. I would look for one that is closer to 3/4 wide to allow extra room around the basket so you can round in carpet

40690_1407261421291_1225082889_31207510_4744789_n.jpg

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=2116

Looks very nice.. But I think you answered my question before the rabbeting bit :)

I think you explained how to add a second baffle to make it a flush mount , correct? I just wanted to add another baffle, no flush mount. So Its still the same ( flush mount bit ) right?

But since we are talking flush mount.. How would you do it from scratch? being as your holes must line up perfectly

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Looks very nice.. But I think you answered my question before the rabbeting bit :)

I think you explained how to add a second baffle to make it a flush mount , correct? I just wanted to add another baffle, no flush mount. So Its still the same ( flush mount bit ) right?

But since we are talking flush mount.. How would you do it from scratch? being as your holes must line up perfectly

If all you want to do is add another baffle, then all you need is a flush trim bit. Make sure the bit is long enough to have the bearing ride on the original hole and the bit tall enough to cut through the thickness of the 2nd baffle. I use a 2" flush trim bit for mine.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16976

When I do flush mount I like to stack both faces together and find my pilot hole for both at the same time. Once i drilled through both pieces I have the center start point for both. Then I can pull off the flush piece and cut the sub cutout. Once I have the sub cut out, I will attach the flush piece and glue them together. Once that's done, I will cut my flush hole out.

I like to cut back into the first piece with the bit by about 1/8 this allows the carpet and staples to recess into the baffle and allows the sub to sit flush without any staples heads poking up.

Edited by kingsuv

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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If all you want to do is add another baffle, then all you need is a flush trim bit. Make sure the bit is long enough to have the bearing ride on the original hole and the bit tall enough to cut through the thickness of the 2nd baffle. I use a 2" flush trim bit for mine.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=16976

When I do flush mount I like to stack both faces together and find my pilot hole for both at the same time. Once i drilled through both pieces I have the center start point for both. Then I can pull off the flush piece and cut the sub cutout. Once I have the sub cut out, I will attach the flush piece and glue them together. Once that's done, I will cut my flush hole out.

I like to cut back into the first piece with the bit by about 1/8 this allows the carpet and staples to recess into the baffle and allows the sub to sit flush without any staples heads poking up.

So you cut the Flush piece while both pieces are together? See thats where I would have got something wrong I guess.. I guess I would have clamped both pieces together, found my pilot, took them apart, cut the sub opening and the flush piece separate then glued them together.. If you cut the flush piece while its glued to the sub baffle , wont you cut into the sub baffle a little bit since the flush baffle is obviously larger than the mounting diameter? Or are you just that good :D

Edited by comatoastedlush
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So you cut the Flush piece while both pieces are together? See thats where I would have got something wrong I guess.. I guess I would have clamped both pieces together, found my pilot, took them apart, cut the sub opening and the flush piece separate then glued them together.. If you cut the flush piece while its glued to the sub baffle , wont you cut into the sub baffle a little bit since the flush baffle is obviously larger than the mounting diameter? Or are you just that good :D

When I do the cut for my flush piece I want to cut into the baffle by 1/8' or so. This allows a channel to have the carpet staples to hide in.

This part comes down to making sure you know what depth you are cutting so you don't cut too deep into the sub baffle when cutting your flush piece.

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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When I do the cut for my flush piece I want to cut into the baffle by 1/8' or so. This allows a channel to have the carpet staples to hide in.

This part comes down to making sure you know what depth you are cutting so you don't cut too deep into the sub baffle when cutting your flush piece.

Ahhh i gotcha man, sorry I mis read i think.. I thought you were talking about the width more than the depth to tuck the carpet in ..

So how do you like your bits? Just as good as the Freuds and bosches Im assuming?

I need a list of all bits you would have , need or want.. I wanna get something ordered up this week.

Thanks again to you and everyone who posted ;)

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I mostly use Freud and Whiteside.

Woodcraft does specials on Whiteside all the time. Stuff like buy 2 get one free.

I will say spend the money on good brand bits. They will last longer and give you cleaner cuts over time. There is nothing worse then being 1/2 way done in a project and needing a new bit because one is burning up on ya.

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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Just checking out Woodcraft now.. Little overwhelming considering theres 100s of bits. Are there general sets with the most commonly used, I cant find them.. Yet..

Another thing, when Tracing existing holes, Im gonna want a flush bit with a bearing, But like you said , to make notches for the carpet, obviously the bearing cant be on there, so what bit will I need to dig down that extra 1/8".. I see a bunch of flush bits with blades on the bottom of it, but without a bearing, doesnt it dog into the wood?

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