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I thought one of the 16v kinetic batterys have a 12v and a 16 v post on it...

EDIT: just looked at the site maybe it is 12V /OR/ 16V but idk

Edited by 55437Audio

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I would either stick with 12v or do a stand alone 16v system and keep the stock 12v for the truck. The ECU's don't like over 15v ;)

Designing, building, and shipping boxes. Yahoo IM - kingsuv00If the listening level is too loud, please inform the driver, so he can promptly pull over, and let you out.

not many cars can get me to pluggin my ears but this one.......damn. I mean the first minute is ok but that thing just really starts digging deeper and deeper in your earhole till you cant stand it no more. Seems like it does it with relative ease....16 12's on 8 amps.........gotta love it. :)

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For how much it takes to get a solid 18v system I don't think it's worth it for a daily. I understand completely for those who compete regularly but I don't think he is planning on it all the time so I don't think it's worth the money to setup a 16v battery system. Now if he runs two Alts and seperated stock 12v and runs 16v for the amp more power to ya and that wouldn't be bad if an option. But for most I think it's better if they just bought a amp that does what they need between 12-16 volts

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Thanx guys :D I'll just leave it be then that sounds like the smart way to go.

My First Build on SMD (Blow Through)

2004 Ford F-350 SD Lariat

Pioneer 3200BT DVD Deck

Infinity Reference Components not powered

Bully Dog Gauge Cluster Pyro, Turbo, Trans

SF3 SCT Tuner W/Customs

If you can't Join em' Crush em'

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