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I will soon be working on walling my 1997 Honda accord with 2 18 inch DC subwoofers (level 4 with level 5 soft parts), running on 1 (soon to be 2) HC1800 batteries with stock alt, 1800 kenwood amp, zero gauge.

Now i will be working on this project and i should be done sometime after December. My question for any car audio smarties out there is this, I will post the stats of the subs below for the level 4's and the level 5's. Now keep in mind that they are STILL level 4's but they contain level 5 parts (such as motor and spider). So my subs will fall in the middle of level 5 and level 4. Now the real question is this, What amp do you think i should be running to these woofers? I will be SUPER pissed if someone post something like, Alpine, MTX, Rockford, etc, etc. These are BRAND names that will NOT push the RMS i need on these subs. If you don't know much about car audio, PLEASE don' t post useless answers like that!

So what do you think? I was looking at maybe some AQ's but I'm not quite sure. If you have any amps you are selling, feel free to let me know!

Level 4

The Level 4 sub is a large double stacked motor weighing in at almost 30LBS each, wrapped in a magnet boot with a chrome top plate and T yoke yielding 23.5mm of X-Max

You also get with the upgraded progressive spiders, cone, surround, 3" coil, cast basket, push terminals and upgraded lead wire.

The Level 4 is rated at 1000w RMS and 2000w peak. Designed for ported enclosures and is a great choice for high-powered daily systems and competitors Key Features

• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly

• Multilayered polymer foam surround

• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo

• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spider

• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire

• Cast aluminum black frame

• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined

• Rubber mounting gasket

• Chrome spring loaded push terminals

• Dual 2 ohm 3” Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

• Rubber magnet cover

Level 5

73lbs triple stacked 1" slug, FEA optimized monster. We use a 8-layer flat wound 3" coil. Its available is D1ohm or D2ohm configurations. We also use upgraded multiple progressive spiders, upgraded cones, surround, lead wire, a cast basket and push terminals.

Key Features

• Extremely rigid non-pressed paper cone assembly

• Multilayered polymer foam surround

• Polypropylene dust cover with embossed DC logo

• 8”OD semi cup progressive roll spiders

• Extra heavy duty interweaved tinsel lead wire

• Cast aluminum black frame

• FEA analyzed and optimized motor assembly – Fully CNC machined

• Rubber mounting gasket

• Chrome spring loaded push terminals

• Dual 1ohm or 2 ohm 3” 8 Layer Hi-temp Aluminum voice coil wound on black anodized voice coil former

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Ok, well these are the lvl xl subs then, i take it? Thats what its sounding like to me. Thats what im working on here soon, 2 15 xl ran off a crescendo 3kwp. Rockford does make amps thatll easily push a pair of these. The t2500 does their rms plus, or their higher amps. Ive seen people push them with sundown audio saz3500/4500, atomic, american bass vfl400.2, vfl500.1, stetsoms, cactus audio just a few brands. Depends whats your price. And youd have to upgrade your alt for any of these amps, or to supply correct power to any amp thats gonna push those subs. The dc xl is between the lvl 4 and 5, rated rms of 1500 each, your looking at over 300 amp current draw atleast.

'04 Walled Monte Carlo

daily driver2 DD 9518i SC D.7

DD M4a 2 sets RF T165-2s (soon to be 3)

RF T400.4

Mechman 320

XS D3100, D3400

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Alpine andRockford amps do rated, and then some. The T2500-1bd puts out around 3300 watts rms at 1 ohm. The T2500-1bdcp puts out around 3500wrms. YOU must not know much about car audio if you said theyre overrated and if you're asking for amp suggestions.

The subs you're getting do not have a level 5 motor. They aren't XLs either.

We can't recommend amps if you don't give us voice coil configurations and enclosure size. To be honest, I don't think YOU should give each over 1000wrms. Someone who knows what they're doing could probably do 2kwrms

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

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@ op what hdorre said and yeah alpine does rated and rf does rated that then some. and that kenwood wont even push one of those subs so we need vc config and encloser to know how much power u need. and i have a feeling we know more then u do. but if u r insestent on that we dont go a head and dont listen from here on out and dont waste our time. now i know that 1500 wats will get those fuckers moving good as my friend has one. so i suggest 2 ap 1500s if u t running d2 but if u r running d4 i suggest a ap 3k with the coils in series and the subs in parrell giving u a 2 ohm load for 3k wats

but better suggestiions when we know coils and box

@ hdorre i agree i dont think he should do over 1k

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4) that is all

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Well i know Rockford makes some powerful amps but i have asked this questions a lot and i get really dumb answers. I'm not trying to be ignorant. Your right, some BRAND named amps can do the job. I never said i really knew what i was taking about anyways lol.

I was talking to a engineer that works with Jets (Yes, the ones that fly) and he pretty much said I don't need to have a bigger alternator, I more or less need more batteries. Which makes sense, because the alt will give me constant power but not as much as a battery can discharge. Also the stock can juice up all the batteries, just not be able to charge them very fast. If you guys have a different idea about it and I'm missing something, feel free to correct me. But it made sense to me.

I am looking at the crescendo 3kwp and the sundowns but i know that crescendo kinda is done with amps till the end of this month?

Sorry Hdorre, i haven't built the box yet, i am making sure i am making my wall to fit perfectly the 18's coming in. I also am not so sure about the woofers. That part is my fault for sure. But honestly, I'm not new at this, i don't see why there is a reason why i can't run 2kwrms. No offense, so please don't take it that way. It just confuses me why you think I'm so stupid.

Also, would my 1800 kenwood amp work for now and would it blow my woofers? Well more or less, under power them causing them to break.

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under powering your subs causes them to blow is a STUPID STUPID myth. if underpowering your subs caused them to break or blow, then you would break/blow your subs just by turning your volume down.

And it's great that you felt the need to talk to a "jet engineer" to tell you the same thing a 16 year old regular on this forum could tell you.

Do yourself a favor, and read through some build logs, hang out on the forum, and learn by examples. You'll be surprised how much information is here.

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underpowering wont kill your woofers.

clipping them will.

alts charge batteries, batteries discharge current. id buy more batteries before i would a bigger alt. THATS JUST ME THOUGH.

Level4 with Level5 coils is just a Level 4 motor, with a Level 5 coil ( which are different ) and i believe a different spider pack as well. Not 100% on that one.

AQ amps are best cost to performance available right now IMO.

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

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Well i know Rockford makes some powerful amps but i have asked this questions a lot and i get really dumb answers. I'm not trying to be ignorant. Your right, some BRAND named amps can do the job. I never said i really knew what i was taking about anyways lol.

I was talking to a engineer that works with Jets (Yes, the ones that fly) and he pretty much said I don't need to have a bigger alternator, I more or less need more batteries. Which makes sense, because the alt will give me constant power but not as much as a battery can discharge. Also the stock can juice up all the batteries, just not be able to charge them very fast. If you guys have a different idea about it and I'm missing something, feel free to correct me. But it made sense to me.

I am looking at the crescendo 3kwp and the sundowns but i know that crescendo kinda is done with amps till the end of this month?

Sorry Hdorre, i haven't built the box yet, i am making sure i am making my wall to fit perfectly the 18's coming in. I also am not so sure about the woofers. That part is my fault for sure. But honestly, I'm not new at this, i don't see why there is a reason why i can't run 2kwrms. No offense, so please don't take it that way. It just confuses me why you think I'm so stupid.

Also, would my 1800 kenwood amp work for now and would it blow my woofers? Well more or less, under power them causing them to break.

Not to be offensive towards the jet dude, I'm sure he knows a whole bunch of stuff about jets, but what the heck do jets have to do with car audio? haha

Have a look at Atomic too, they are the same internally as the sundown and crescendo amps and it would be a change since everybody seems to go for sundown and crescendo on here. haha

What were you thinking of doing for the box? How many cubes and tuning freq?

He was saying he doesn't think you should run 2KW per sub. I don't know if he was suggesting that you are stupid, but the general rule is that you shouldn't run too much more than rated RMS unless you have a more experience.

That kenwood won't even be doing 1800 RMS, it probably only does 800 RMS or something. So if it is set so that it isn't clipping it will be fine for the time being.

underpowering wont kill your woofers.

clipping them will.

alts charge batteries, batteries discharge current. I'd buy more batteries before i would a bigger alt. THATS JUST ME THOUGH.

Level4 with Level5 coils is just a Level 4 motor, with a Level 5 coil ( which are different ) and i believe a different spider pack as well. Not 100% on that one.

AQ amps are best cost to performance available right now IMO.

x2

You need a bigger alt because most stock alts don't produce much juice until they get high in RPM. Your honda I believe has a 320A alt at DC Power. That would handle everything and more.

I'm pretty sure you got that the wrong way around, H/O alts produce the most power at higher RPMs, stock ones would most likely be designed to produce their power at normal speeds and idle. You can have H/O alts made to do more at lower RPMs though.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Have a look at Atomic too, they are the same internally as the sundown and crescendo amps

actually i think the new atomics are USA built with USA parts

2006 F-150

4 DC XL M2 18's Walled Daily Driver

XS Power

4 DC 3.5kw

Team DC

Team S.P.L.

Lot of Audio Technix and 1/0

DC Audio Dealer

American Bass Dealer

XS Power Dealer

Audio Technix Dealer

DWRIGHT-1-1.jpg

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