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I am assuming you mean the level 5 coil option offered through DC? Or do you mean you had them reconed completely with a level 5 recone? As far as I know, the level 5 coil option does NOT have all of the same softparts as a level 5, just the coil. It might be a different spider too, but I am not sure. I have a level 4 with level 5 coil, and it gets moving damn good on 1500 RMS, I have heard of people putting 2k to them, but I wouldnt go any higher than that.

Mate, spiders are softparts

Yeah dude! I have been thinking about my suspension too! I have no idea how it's going to handle haha. Any ideas/brands of suspension i should upgrade to? I have NO idea about that kind of stuff. I'm sure i can ask around but why not start with someone who knows why i need the upgrade and knows what they are talking about haha! What kind of alt do you recommend getting for what the gist of what we are talking about for amps. I mean, I have a SE not sure if it's F class honestly. But what do you think? I thinking about my alt having to power 4 batteries in the long run. I want to use DC power but I'm not sure if you have some better ideas?

Hdorre! All good man! Like i said you were totally right. I was just tired and your statement made me upset. But it's all good. I need to humble myself anyways. I honestly don't know much about it in reality. More then the average 16 year old with 2 12 inch subs but not more then you guys know. Thanks for the advice though! Really! And with what you just said, what is "bottoming out and what exactly do you mean when you said "building a correct box to compensate for more power" Like make it bigger? That raises questions that i want to know the answer to! I would be willing to look for it but I'm not sure if they have something about it...

Yeah man, through DC for sure. I have a upgraded spider also. So your sub is a 4dvc? Any recommendations for amps?

Bottoming out is when the coil hits the back plate, it screws up subs if it happens enough. And you use a smaller box to handle more power, this means that the subs are more restricted so there is less chance at bottoming out.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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Yeah dude! I have been thinking about my suspension too! I have no idea how it's going to handle haha. Any ideas/brands of suspension i should upgrade to? I have NO idea about that kind of stuff. I'm sure i can ask around but why not start with someone who knows why i need the upgrade and knows what they are talking about haha! What kind of alt do you recommend getting for what the gist of what we are talking about for amps. I mean, I have a SE not sure if it's F class honestly. But what do you think? I thinking about my alt having to power 4 batteries in the long run. I want to use DC power but I'm not sure if you have some better ideas?

Hdorre! All good man! Like i said you were totally right. I was just tired and your statement made me upset. But it's all good. I need to humble myself anyways. I honestly don't know much about it in reality. More then the average 16 year old with 2 12 inch subs but not more then you guys know. Thanks for the advice though! Really! And with what you just said, what is "bottoming out and what exactly do you mean when you said "building a correct box to compensate for more power" Like make it bigger? That raises questions that i want to know the answer to! I would be willing to look for it but I'm not sure if they have something about it...

Yeah man, through DC for sure. I have a upgraded spider also. So your sub is a 4dvc? Any recommendations for amps?

from a little searching it looks like you have an F22 engine; it also looks like your stock alternator is eighty amps. My 95 sedan had this also; Id talk to Nathan from Excessive Amperage. he gave me a great deal on a 200 amp alternator for a really nice price. But this isnt something that has to be done right away, when you get up to 4 batteries, then I would. Also, DC Power seems great, but when I called, no one picked up and they're message box was full. that, combined with some people waiting months for they're alts got me nervous. Doesn't mean they are a bad company, and it doesn't mean they are still that busy, but at the time, I wasn't willing to wait that long.

as for shocks, I had mine dropped on Bilstein struts and tanabe springs. Id definitely recommend them together, but I don't know if you want to drop it too. You would probably be better off getting the Bilstein Heavy Dutys (HD), they're a little more expensive than the regular ones, but they work well with aftermarket springs iirc.

Edited by mbdblue

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holy shit batman. tl;dr, but i havea 97 accord, and can tell you, you ARE going to need better batteries, and a BETTER alt. And good luck with a h/o alt. They just absolutly love our model of car. Call kyle from dcpower and tell him you have a 97 accord and see what he tells you. You dont seem to know enough to go balls to walls full out this quickly. Hell even i dont and ive been goin at this for a year or so... also, if you think that alt is gonna charge 4 batts, its not. I burned the shit out of mine doing that.

Edited by Alex K

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So bottoming out is too big of a box... So how do i know how big or small to make it? I mean really we were going to make it big and just tune it with a detachable port. But now that you said that, that is pretty scary... Suggestions?

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you get your alt for? Thanks for this information man! I know i don't need to upgrade right away but soon for sure. I had NO idea DC was like that. That's good to know though, honestly. Yeah i would eventually plan to drop it but i want to put bags in it. But with all of these car audio crap (stuff) i have to buy. I have no money yet haha. But thank you, i honestly will check those out man! Thank you so much!

Are you being sarcastic about the alt? I don't really understand haha. Yeah man, I don't know enough, but hopefully i can get there soon. It's mostly the resources that i lack. aka money $$$

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Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated!

First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure.

Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be!

Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box!

Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!

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So bottoming out is too big of a box... So how do i know how big or small to make it? I mean really we were going to make it big and just tune it with a detachable port. But now that you said that, that is pretty scary... Suggestions?

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you get your alt for? Thanks for this information man! I know i don't need to upgrade right away but soon for sure. I had NO idea DC was like that. That's good to know though, honestly. Yeah i would eventually plan to drop it but i want to put bags in it. But with all of these car audio crap (stuff) i have to buy. I have no money yet haha. But thank you, i honestly will check those out man! Thank you so much!

Are you being sarcastic about the alt? I don't really understand haha. Yeah man, I don't know enough, but hopefully i can get there soon. It's mostly the resources that i lack. aka money $$$

Bottoming out is a combination of things, it could be playing content that is too low below box tuning without having a sufficient subsonic filter. It could be too much power in a certain box, or it could be rated power in a box that is far too big. Don't worry, we'll make sure it won't happen to you.

Also i have some more questions. Me and my engineer friend were talking about how we want to build this box. We came across some more questions that we wanted to throw at you all. All answers are GREATLY appreciated!

First off, we wanted to have a Removable Front Piece, meaning, where the front of the wall/where the subs will be mounted to, if we made it a removable piece but put rubber gaskets over the sides so that it will be sealed. Now, as general as this is, my question is, will it not be able to seal properly and will i lose air/numbers because of it. The reason we want to do this is so that we can get to the subs and easily get into the box etc. What do you guys think about this? We would be screwing in/bolting the front piece. Double nuts etc. Everything would be secure.

Second, mounting the subs. I have looked at builds and i understand how people do it sorta, but no one really explains what bolts they use. We were both wondering what exactly we would use. We aren't sure if wood screws would be enough. Also, i do understand how to make subwoofers flush and stuff to the box but i just don't understand what the screws need to be!

Third, and lastly, I have talked to many people about the different boxes and sizes. I have learned about bottoming out and more about how much the box size matters. We (when i say we i am talking about myself and the person who is the engineer helping with the project) were assuming that we just need to build the box big and tune the port. Well with all of this new information, i don't even know anymore. So the biggest thing is, what is the minimum and (maximum?) space we can have for the box with out bottoming out or doing anything that could harm the woofers. I honestly have a lot of questions about this part and this is the most crucial part of the box!

Thanks again for all of your answers, you guys really have helped me along and i look forward to more of your help!

So you want the baffle to be removable? That is possible, you just want to make sure that you have a amazing seal, and that the baffle bolts on and not just uses wood screws. My wall is going to have a removable baffle too probably. If you do a shitty job of it, you'll lose numbers, do it right though and there should be no difference.

I'd use t-nuts and nice beefy bolts to hold the subs in, of you could use those roofing screws that Steve uses (I think) To make the subs flush mount you make another panel that goes over the main baffle with a cutout that is bigger than the sub. Such as this:

100_4819.jpg

100_4835.jpg

This is a double layer box (and double layer baffle) with the extra panel on top, no bracing either, and it works great, the box doesn't flex.

I have forgotten what size subs they are, so correct me if I'm wrong.

2 18"s (depending on how much power you will give them) will want between 12-18 cubes (although more has been used, such as 21 cubes, the guy wanted lots of box rise though so that's one reason why it was built big). If you are feeding each one rated (is that like 1250? I'm guessing it is less than the XL but more than the lvl 4) then 16 cubes may be ok, if you are going to give them like 2K each, maybe go for 14 cubes.

A good idea for this is to build a big frame (2x4"s probably) then line that with MDF. That may be 25 cubes, now what you can do is put more boards of MDF in to make it the correct volume for the subs. Doing this allows you to upgrade and add another (or different/more) woofers in and you won't have a huge pain taking stuff out, especially with a removable baffle.

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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  • 4 weeks later...

Sorry man, i thought i replied. I made a build section to show my progress. thanks bassl0va so much man, you have helped me out a lot. I will make sure i message you if a question arises

Linky link to the build because I'm lazy? :santa:

My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build

This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.

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