Dbforlife Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 what terminals would you need to run 3-5 runs from the front to back batt? lol.. ive seen 2.. not 5 I can make you some. PM Sent .. Quote 1998 GMC Jimmy 4 Dr. -SINGER 275 Amp Alternator -150 FT. Of 1/0 OFC (8 runs) 4 pos, 4 neg. Front-back. -Audioque AQ2200D @ .5 ohm -2 Audioque HDC3 18's Tuned to 27-29 HZ -4 Clarion 6.5's -2 Optima yellowtops Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
94retta(219) Posted January 13, 2011 Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 Copper vs low grade steel. Copper will ALLWAYS win. Unless you drive a aston martin with aloy frame But if it's grounded in front then it's grounded in the back right? So why do you want long grounds? I thought you want grounds short as possible? Quote BUILD LOG Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Justin Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 13, 2011 If your not running a batt in the front then what makes the front ground better than the back? Quote 99 2dr Blazer Kenwood KVT-614 SounDigital SD16k 4 Fi BTL 18s 4 hertz high energy 6.5s comps 4 stock ad244 alts 6 g31s batts 8 runs 0ga Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 A lil lesson on how the alternator works its going to be brief. to complete a circuit you have to have power and ground. the back half casing on a alternator is the ground the terminal bolt is positive.power has to flow through the alt mounting bracket through the engine block through the factory ground strap to the frame. maybe a lil bit through engine mounts and tranny mounts but they are rubber or plastic. thats why the big 3 works you upgrading your factory ground. Imo its best to go from alternator mounting bolts to neg on battery then to the back with 0g. copper is a way better conductor than steel (your frame). like i said earlier its the flow of least resistance. Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEKINGsBACK Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 A lil lesson on how the alternator works its going to be brief. to complete a circuit you have to have power and ground. the back half casing on a alternator is the ground the terminal bolt is positive.power has to flow through the alt mounting bracket through the engine block through the factory ground strap to the frame. maybe a lil bit through engine mounts and tranny mounts but they are rubber or plastic. thats why the big 3 works you upgrading your factory ground. Imo its best to go from alternator mounting bolts to neg on battery then to the back with 0g. copper is a way better conductor than steel (your frame). like i said earlier its the flow of least resistance. so no matter what you run.. you need to have equal runs of positive and ground? Quote he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 thats what i would do. but! if you cant afford neg runs you can use the frame as wire. same amount of negs as pos Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEKINGsBACK Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 thats what i would do. but! if you cant afford neg runs you can use the frame as wire. same amount of negs as pos does it matter how long the runs are if you ground to the frame? Quote he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
AA98hoe Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 (edited) thats what i would do. but! if you cant afford neg runs you can use the frame as wire. same amount of negs as pos does it matter how long the runs are if you ground to the frame? in the front i went from back of alt straight down to frame 18" total 3 runs of 0g on each side of motor. then in back i went from my batterys through the floor to frame maybe 2ft. 6 runs also i have steady voltage for pulling 800+ amps Edited January 14, 2011 by dc98hoe Quote TEAM DC AUDIO VEHICLE:98 chevy tahoe 2wd 3-4 drop HEADUNIT:alpine 9886 PREAMP:arcaudio FRONT STAGE:4-6 1/2s selinium,DD component set and 4-selinium tweeters in each door KICKPANELS:jl audio 5 1/4 REAR DOORS: dd components 6 1/2s HIGHS AMPS:zapco 750.2 on front doors,zapco an another 750.2 on kicks and rear doors SUBS:4-ascendant audio 18s with 5 spiders in a custom box built by KINGSUV SUB AMP: 2-dc7.5s ALTERNATORS: 3-mechmans 1- 425comp, 1-smd spec350, 1-270 with adj voltage harness on custom dc bracket WIRE:10-runs 0g front to back BATTERIES:6-d1400s TL results:157.1 at 38hz and 156.8 at headrest score @37hz. STATE AND NATIONAL RECORD IN MECA S5. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
THEKINGsBACK Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 thats what i would do. but! if you cant afford neg runs you can use the frame as wire. same amount of negs as pos does it matter how long the runs are if you ground to the frame? in the front i went from back of alt straight down to frame 18" total 3 runs of 0g on each side of motor. then in back i went from my batterys through the floor to frame maybe 2ft. 6 runs also i have steady voltage for pulling 800+ amps so your grounded with runs from the front to back and in the back your grounded to the frame? Quote he wouldnt be the first to say they did a 167 with a system like that (one that clearly DOESNT), but i have to say, he didnt beat me anywhere, ive never competed against the guy. If he thinks his does a 167, mine would probably put him in a coma. :hairtrick: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Boon Posted January 14, 2011 Report Share Posted January 14, 2011 Realistically if the grounds in the back are short and you're using the frame as ground you don't need anywhere near as many grounds off the rear battery. If your amps are grounded directly to the batteries in the back then you only need grounding capacity equal to your alternator output. At ~1ft long, you could use a single piece of 0ga for ~500A all day with no issues. Probably more. Quote 10.x volts fo' life! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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