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I was looking to get a whole new system, right now I just have a ok Kenwood system with 2 10" JBL's off of a MTX 2 channel amp. Kenwood head unit with 2 6.5 coaxials in the front and 2 kenwood 6x9's in the back. I want to get a completely new system, Yes price is a thing here but I am willing to spend some cash if it is really worth it. I did some digging around on the forum, and saw some people saying SQ is more than what most people realize. I am going to just put out what I had in mind of a set up, but if you think there is something that would replace what I had in mind, and in the price range of that object, please feel free to speak. First and formost, I have a 91 Civic Hatchback, so for bass, I don't need much to get my car moving, my 2 10's can get my roof rattling with only 200 watts to each. Here it goes.

Front: Was looking into RF 2 way component set Linky!

Rear: RF 6x9 Linky! For this thought I was wondering, the kenwood 6x9's I have, are of their High end line, if their really is one comparing it to high end speakers. They were $150 and these RF 6x9's are only $20 less, also would there be any difference if I were to get the 2way to 4 way.

Sub: Since I have a small car I don't need much. Was looking into a FI-Q 15".

Power: I was most likely going to get Prime or Punch series RF to RMS all my Mids and Highs. As for the Sub, I am stumbled if I should cough up the money for a nice RF Mono amp and rms at 1000 watts, or pay less for something like a power acoustic and put it 1500-2000 watts off one of them.

Please any thought and Ideas on how to make this set up good would help, and I am looking more into quality, looking for it to be bassy, but not have the bass overcome the highs and mids. And this is going to be a everyday use.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Stay away from the prime amplifiers they don't put out rated. Punch will give you alot more power. The prime highs have been solid imo not top of the line but they do sound good. You might also want to invest in some deadskin because your car should be rattling pretty good.

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I figured I would need some second skin or dynamate because I would be upgrading to a high powered subwoofer. Any thought about my 6x9 question, and do you mean the prime high as to the component set I was talking about or a Prime amp for the highs. Also It will only be 2-3 Amps at most, should I get another alternator, and about batteries just get a new one for inside the vehicle and put them all to it, or do you think if I get a good battery for my whole car it would run it all well.

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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Share on other sites

Stay away from the prime amplifiers they don't put out rated. Punch will give you alot more power. The prime highs have been solid imo not top of the line but they do sound good. You might also want to invest in some deadskin because your car should be rattling pretty good.

since when do prime amplifiers not put out rated?

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Well while its decided which amps are "good", I have figured out what all the speakers I am going to get. Front Component, Rear 6x9's, and a FI-Q 15" Subwoofer. For powering those I will most likely go with the P200-2 for the front and the P400-2 for the rear, seeing as there are no amplifiers that meet the RMS of those speakers on prime. My next question is, I want at minimum 1000 Watts to the sub, thats at what ever ohms it will be, most likely 2 Ohms. I am willing to get the T1000-1bdCP for the Sub or maybe the T1500-1bdCP. If primes are good would it be better off to just get 2 R1000-1D's?

On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Well while its decided which amps are "good", I have figured out what all the speakers I am going to get. Front Component, Rear 6x9's, and a FI-Q 15" Subwoofer. For powering those I will most likely go with the P200-2 for the front and the P400-2 for the rear, seeing as there are no amplifiers that meet the RMS of those speakers on prime. My next question is, I want at minimum 1000 Watts to the sub, thats at what ever ohms it will be, most likely 2 Ohms. I am willing to get the T1000-1bdCP for the Sub or maybe the T1500-1bdCP. If primes are good would it be better off to just get 2 R1000-1D's?

I don't know that sub specs, but if 1000W@2ohm is what you want, the T1000-1 is perfect. Also, save your money and buy a T400-4 rather than 2 prime amps. The T400-4 will run the mids and highs you listed just fine and be cheaper than 2 prime amps and match your T1000-1.

 

F150:

Stock :(

 

2019 Harley Road Glide:

Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt

Processor: DSR1

Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx

Lid (Rear) 6x9s -  TMS69

 

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Share on other sites

Well I was thinking of that T400-4 but the MAX of the component set is 120, so I don't want to over do them, as for the Dual 2, no I meant if I should just get 2 P1000-d since it will be only around $100 more than a T1000-1bdCP and double the power, as for the FI-Q specs here they are.

DUAL 1 | DUAL 2

Fs: 32.4 Hz | 32.1 Hz

Re: 0.7 Ohms/coil | 1.4 Ohms/coil

Qms: 8.52 | 8.61

Qes: .43 | .44

Qts: .41 | .42

Mms: 293g | 299g

Cms: 0.82mm/N | 0.82mm/N

Sd: 810cm^2 | 810cm^2

Vas: 75.6 l | 75.6 l

Spl: 89.6dB 1W/1m | 89.4dB 1W/1m

Bl: 13.9 N/A | 19.65 N/A

Xmax: 28mm

Rms: 1000W

Sealed box: 2-2.6 cuft

Ported box: 2.8-4 cuft @ 28-33Hz

Sub OD: 15.625”

Cut ID: 14.125”

Mounting depth: 8.500”

Displacement: 0.19cuft

Quick Edit: The RMS is 1000, but as I have seen from Steve himself that the Fi's can handle pretty much anything you put into them, and would like to put a bit more than that.

Edited by RooTxBeeR
On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said:

Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol.

On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said:

fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point

On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said:

I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha

  • Soon To Be
  • '04 Ford Escape
  • US Alternator 280A Hairpin
  • D4800 Under the Hood
  • (6) XP3000's in Rear
  • 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back
  • TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply
  • Pioneer DEH-80PRS
  • DD AW6.5 (2) per door
  • *Tweeter Unkown*
  • DD SS4a & C3d
  • (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm
  • (2) 15" Sundown Zv5
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