nCOMP1337 Posted January 25, 2011 Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 the fi's cant handle anything you put to them, but they can handle more than rated with a smart install from someone who really knows what they are doing my prime 500 amp put out rated aq1200 would match with that fi q nicely Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 25, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 25, 2011 (edited) aq1200 Oh, Dur I didn't really know what you meant for some reason, and wow, that is good $500 for 2 brand new. Edit: Question, can anyone tell me what all the options in drop boxes are for these subs, I really don't know what any of them mean, or what they do for the subwoofer, except the few obvious like heat ring. Edited January 25, 2011 by RooTxBeeR Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 26, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 26, 2011 Anyone? Bump! Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 29, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Bump! Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Maxim Posted January 29, 2011 Report Share Posted January 29, 2011 Cooling: The 2010 Q now features a solid pole piece that allows the addition of the Helicool cooling system that will allow an additional 200-500 watts of power handling depending upon install and scenario. Bottom line this option increases thermal power handling capacity over a “Stock” Q. P Chamfer: This is a chamfer on the end of the pole, it helps to bring the air down around inside of the motor and helps cool the coil better. It also helps relieve the pressure underneath the dustcap. Please note if you select “Cooling” this option is included in the cooling package. High QTS: This option is for users who intend on using the new Q series woofers in only a sealed enclosure. Spider: This option adds an additional spider to the spider pack to help with mechanical power handling and keeping the moving assembly under control. I Heat Ring: This option is a machined aluminum ring in the gap that lowers the inductance of the voice coil which allows it to play up a little higher in the frequency range and have better overall transient response. Please note that you can NOT select low Qts and the I Heat Ring options together. Taken directly from Fi's site. The Tech tab on the left has lots of goodies. Fi makes some solid speakers. I ran an SSD off 1000 watts no problems so I'd say a Q off ~1200 would be fine. If you'd be more comfortable with the Cooling upgrade to increase power handling I'd say go for it. Quote wtf is lolcats? I'd def get a fat hooker if i had to resort to that kinda thing. I feel like they'd be grateful and work harder. Also its more bang for my buck, more real estate for my dollar if you catch my drift. its like the Costco of streetwalkers. I was hoping for 150 . I was hoping she would let me put it in her butt Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I was most likely going to get a fully loaded Q, just because it would be better than a stock. I am also most likely going to be running this in a sealed box because from some self research I have found that the Q for SQ would sound better in a sealed box, over loudness in a ported box. Still wondering on Battery and ALternator question. Also someone said about getting the T400-4 to run all my mids/highs instead of a P200-2 and a p400-2 for front/back, got a question on that, doesn't each speaker in the component set take the RMS per speaker, or is the RMS for both of them together. Because if I where to get the T400-4 then I would be running the 2 front channels with split power between the 2. Is that safe and fine to do? Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I was most likely going to get a fully loaded Q, just because it would be better than a stock. I am also most likely going to be running this in a sealed box because from some self research I have found that the Q for SQ would sound better in a sealed box, over loudness in a ported box. Still wondering on Battery and ALternator question. Also someone said about getting the T400-4 to run all my mids/highs instead of a P200-2 and a p400-2 for front/back, got a question on that, doesn't each speaker in the component set take the RMS per speaker, or is the RMS for both of them together. Because if I where to get the T400-4 then I would be running the 2 front channels with split power between the 2. Is that safe and fine to do? It is easiest to think of the power handling of component sets as power handling PER crossover. So if it says 100 watts RMS, then that is per crossover (or per door if you want to think of it that way). In a lot of the component sets I have seen, the RMS of the individual speakers is higher than the RMS of the tweet and woofer together. I think this has more to do with the power handling capability of the actual crossover itself. In your case, the RMS of the components is 60 watts RMS, this is pretty much exactly what the T400.4 puts out to each channel. The match is perfect. The 6x9s have a bit of a higher RMS capability, but they will be in the rear so you it is fine to have a bit less power going to them. You sure aren't going to hurt them by under powering them. I only mentioned the T400.4 because you mentioned the T1000.1 for a sub amp and both of those amps cosmetically match up. There are plenty of nice 4 channel amps out that will run your choices of speakers just fine. Any amp with a 4ohm rating of 60-100 watts RMS per channel is all you need. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Looks like now I have my selection of speakers and amps. Still anyone know if with those two amps if I should get a extra battery just for them or if I should just get a really good battery and just replace my car battery. Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MrSkippyJ Posted January 30, 2011 Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 Looks like now I have my selection of speakers and amps. Still anyone know if with those two amps if I should get a extra battery just for them or if I should just get a really good battery and just replace my car battery. which amp are you going with? sorry if I missed it. Quote F150: Stock 2019 Harley Road Glide: Amp: TM400Xad - 4 channel 400 watt Processor: DSR1 Fairing (Front) 6.5s -MMats PA601cx Lid (Rear) 6x9s - TMS69 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RooTxBeeR Posted January 30, 2011 Author Report Share Posted January 30, 2011 I am going to get the T400-4 for sure, and will most likely get the T1000-1bd or T1500-1bd, all depends on how much money I have at the time when I buy everything from RF. Quote On 11/20/2012 at 8:54 PM, AMI CUSTOMS said: Turned mine up today at a light, guy next to me his steering wheel started moving and he looked over at me like I was a magician lol. On 5/9/2012 at 8:45 PM, skittlesRgood said: fuck the plating. look at what the main metal used is. you could buy unicorn blood plated terminals but if its just covering up dog shit, whats the point On 4/10/2013 at 12:26 PM, mrd6 said: I'll admit, half way through sanding that fiberglass in the rain and cold while I was all itchy I was definitely starting to question why i was doing this haha Soon To Be '04 Ford Escape US Alternator 280A Hairpin D4800 Under the Hood (6) XP3000's in Rear 1/0 SHCA & XS Power 4 runs to back TORK2 kit from Tony @ CE Auto Supply Pioneer DEH-80PRS DD AW6.5 (2) per door *Tweeter Unkown* DD SS4a & C3d (2) SCV4000 @ .5Ohm (2) 15" Sundown Zv5 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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